2000 Windstar Motor Vibrating. Need Help!

[423ruger]

I have a 2000 Ford Windstar that is vibrating very bad at idle or in gear. I am getting no cel. I had a new torque converter installed. Checked the harmonic balancer which looked like it was in good shape. I also pulled out the engine balance shaft and it appears to be good. I also check compression which was also good. I pulled each injector and each plug wire of one at a time and each one made it run worse. I really don't think it is missing. It feels like something is out of balance. the whole vehicle vibrates bad. I also sprayed carb cleaner around the intake checking for leaks but didn't find anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Also when removing the timing chain tensioner I didn't put a pin through the hole to keep it from springing all the way out. Now I can not figure out how to release the tension.

[wiswind]

Timing chain tensioner?
If you had things apart down to that level, I wonder if something is out of timing.
Did you also have the camshaft sycro out?.....they can be tough to get back correctly.
Another thing, which I have been known to do (though not for MANY years) is crossing spark plug wires......my trick is to try to have ONY 1 off at a time.

[423ruger]

The motor was vibrating bad before I tore into it. Is there any way to line the camshaft position sensor up with out a special tool?

[wiswind]

12ounce may know, I never did more than replace the sensor on the top.
If the sycro has not been out, it should still be fine......
Do a search on the subject as it has been discussed a number of times.....not trying to poke at you for not searching....just trying to direct you to the correct information....which I have no personal experience with to be of any help.

[tempfixit]

Which engine??? I assume it vibrated before the installation of new torque converter.

Here is a videoo of installation with a tool on a 98 3.0.

http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfix...am_Sensor.html

[tempfixit]

I found this on another forum while searching, hopefully it will help with the cam synconizer:

Today, it seems you can't compete even the most routine job - such as replacing a timing belt - without these new tools. One question our hotline callers often ask is how to align a camshaft position sensor synchronizer without Ford's special tool.

Here I am using a 1995-1998 3.8L Ford Windstar as an example. Usually the problem starts after engine work has been done. Maybe the timing cover has been removed or the engine was replaced. Either situation requires the synchronizer to be installed and timed to the engine. The service manual states that a "special tool" is required to index the vane inside the synchronizer to the housing. As you read through the procedure, you may be thinking, "I don't have that tool - now what?"

Good news! You can line up the synchronizer without a special tool and without a lot of extra time. Here's how:

1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.

2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. There will often be a large groove machined into the balancer at this point. If not, mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.

3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).

4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.

5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."

6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."

7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt.

This same procedure can be used on most OBD-II Ford products with Hall-effect type cam sensors. Source Click this bar to view the full image.
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[12Ounce]

Wow! Did you get this deep into the engine with it still in the vehicle? And you pulled the counterbalance shaft? ....that's courageous!

Most timing chain tensioners have a spring component and a hydraulic piston component. I can't remember if the 3.8 had the hydraulic piston component or not. I've never been inside a 3.0. But all, or at least I think "all" tensioners, have a rachet feature that "extends" in rachet-steps as the chain wears. This keeps the chain from being extra loose at each engine start-up. But you must upset this rachet gadget to collapse the tensioner against the spring. If you force it, something get broken. Look closely, you will figure it out.

Why do folks resist getting the cam positioner setting tool? Its only a plastic piece. Costs maybe $3. Comes free with some after market cam sensors. Why the pain? Once you have it for your particular engine ... you know you have a chance to get the engine set up correctly. (Forgive my rant!)

[Searles Lewis]

Originally Posted by 423ruger

The motor was vibrating bad before I tore into it. Is there any way to line the camshaft position sensor up with out a special tool?

Mine is doing something like that, with a popping sound.

What is the difference between the crankcase position sensor ,and the camshaft sensor. I was told by a friend they are the same thing.

any luck?

[mannasugar]

My 90 Celica vibrates, the whole car vibrates and it needs a motor mount replaced.

[wiswind]

Camshaft position sensor senses the position of the camshaft, which is what drives the valves.

Crankshaft position sensor senses the position of the crankshaft, which is driven by the pistons.

[12Ounce]

Keep in mind that the crankshaft revolves twice for each rotation of the camshaft. The crankshaft sensor alone would be enough except for the question ... " Is the piston on compression stroke or exhaust stroke?" This very basic question is usually answered by the cam sensor. There may be other ways to answer that question .... but so far, the cam sensor seems to be the logical choice for engine designers.