2000 Dodge Caravan Sport stalling need help

[hapeequad]

Hi I really hope to get some tips here. A bit of background info, I am disabled and use air assisted gas/brake hand controls. These actually have a side benefit in that I can feel the acceleration and idle.

While driving my van on a 40 mile trip (ac was on, 95+ weather, 65mph on interstate) I felt the engine idle rough, I gave it more gas and felt no response, and then it stalled. I did not see if the check engine light had gone on. A very similar stall happened 8 years before and the apparent cause a terribly clogged air filter. Since that time the van has run great until the 40 mile trip. After the stall I was towed to a shop where the van restarted but I had the air filter changed just to be sure. Of course the shop did not believe or agree with my suspicion or solution. Thirty minutes later I was back on the road completing my trip, running errands and then the 45 mile trip back home, with no further problem. The next day was a 55 mile drive with the rough idle, no gas response and stalling about 350 feet from my destination. After sitting for five minutes it restarted made the 350 feet and stalled again. Took it into a different shop, but no code showed, nothing in the history, they drove it 17 miles lots of tests (don’t have specific tests) and now I’m waiting for it to happen again.

Any help is very much Appreciated


Does anyone know about how much these tests would cost??

Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
engine crank sensor
EGR system -electric EGR transducer (EET)
ERG valve
O2 sensor
throttle position sensor
AIS (automatic idle speed motor)

fuel filter/pump-this was done

[RIP]

All can be tested/monitored using a DRBIII scanner or individually using a multimeter. A guess at the cost would be $100-$200. Ask them.

"they drove it 17 miles lots of tests" implies they used a scanner and were reading the real time data but I wasn't there. If it had stalled while they were doing that they would have surely seen some indication of what was causing it. Without that, troubleshooting can be lengthy and costly. For your part keep a close eye on the check engine light (SES light). If it lights up immediately pull over, turn the key off then cycle the key from off to on/run three times within 5 seconds leaving it at on/run. You then read the codes off the odometer display. Do that or head to an Autozone or the like where they will scan for codes for free. A code could greatly shorten the troubleshooting phase. If there are no codes you can have someone check to see if you've lost spark or fuel. Disconnect a spark plug wire, stick a screw driver into the wire connection, hold the shank 1/8th inch from the engine block, then turn the key to start and crank the engine. You should see a blue spark. To quickly check for fuel pressure have someone neal near the back of the van by the fuel tank. Turn the key to on/run. They should hear the pump hum for a brief second or two.

Other than that it turns into some tedious checking of connections, wiring and testing components. It may come down to changing the most likely part. High on my long list would be the cam or crankshaft sensors, MAP sensor, fuel pump, or ignition coil. The sensors regularly fail without producing a fail code.

First, like most on any forum I am a DIYer and not a pro. I'll say an experienced DIYer though. Not at all doubting your experience with the air filter but that's the first time I've read of one stalling an engine. What plugged it? Did it get wet and just build up road gunk?

[b1lk1]

I'd get fuel pressure checked out. If possible, get a gauge and leave it connected for awhile and see what happens when the van DOES have the issue. Sure sounds like a fuel issue to me.

[Cripple]

Yes it is a fuel issue. Its your fuel pump. it is giving out. I have 2 in my garage with the same thing. Dealer wants 2200 for 1 and 1500 for another saying it is different things. Even telling the customer that Computer is gone and needs new 1. Simple fix with a new fuel pump. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can re-solder the connections on the fuel pump with treated gas treated wire and put it back in. You wont have an issue with it again.

[hapeequad]

An update and a "Thank You" for all of your suggestions. Well my van stalled again just as I was crossing a two lane Hwy. I am not able to cycle the key on and off, as suggested by RIP, since I have no fine hand function, but I tried to do it as fast as I could. Fortunately for me, when I drove it to a local shop the next day the check engine light came on and the code said the van was running to rich. It cost me $500 to get the fuel pump pulled and replaced. The van has not had a problem so far, fingers crossed, and prayers side. Thanks again.