1989 Nissan Fairlady 300zx (z32)

[Marianitem]

Hi all. I´ve been busy with my job and down to modeling due to my latest mistake on the r33 (in few words, I have to start over with the body).

Anyway I got this Z, which I expected ti build OOB. Typical Tamiya kit from 1989. Only extras are LHD or RHD options and a few extra decals. The rest is bone stock. Quality as ussual, molding lines here and there, nice linking points to the sprues... looks like an easy build with a good engine.

Color´s gonna be Pearl White. Don´t know yet what paint am I gonna use. I´m trying to go acrylic all the way on this one.

I guess OOB is no more an option after seeing what you guys do. Anyway, I´ll not be building a bodykit, as the shape of this lady is already perfect. Engine is gonna be kept stock, unless I find something simple to add.

So I started with a fit-test of some GT-R r34 stock 19¨ rims. I assembled the suspension for the test and it looks like it´s gonna be standing like this:









What do you guys think? Should I keep it stock or with the big wheels? Lowering a bit more would be barelly impossible to me, but it looks like the right height is correct for a light tuner. Please consider I´ll be adding some I.C.E. stuff and a custom interior color scheme (more on that later).

I also started with some scratch building, and picking some materials for that:
- will be covering the front license plate pin holes (I hate front license plates)
- LCD screen on a 1-rack-unit stereo
- a couple of 12¨speakers on the trunk
- a poweramp on that rectangle on the middle of the car





- 4-point harness on stock buckets (is that acceptable?) using a metal bar on the back for the belts to attach the belts (is that correct?)

I´m not sure if I should add a CF hood. In that case rims should turn to matt or satin black.

Last, this are the 2 color schemes I´m considering (remember the car is Pearl White):


A heavy tuned design, originally on a white body car.


A more conservative scheme, yet sporty look. Originally from a black body car.

What would you guys pick? Consider I want a tuner, yes, but keeping respect to this beautiful lady, not a flashy neon lights Civic.

That´s what I got so far. I´m fully open to ideas.

Thx for watching!

[euro_z]

Hey nice choice of kit! I actually picked up the same kit just a few days ago as one of my next projects! So it will be good to watch your build :-)
Those interiors you are considering look pretty good, I would go for your first one if I had to choose between those 2. But I feel both of them are a bit too contrasty, the white and the black. How about something like this? Bit easier on the eye.

[luchoteam]

Very interesting proyect!

I like the big rims, maybe with another color, some grey instead of chrome, but it will look fine anyway

Suscribed

[Marianitem]

@ euro z:
The one you suggested was my first pick too. But the latest 5 projects (e30, Civic, GT-R33, S13, RPS13) had different shades of grey interior. I wanna try something new.
Also, as I´ll be adding some fancy stuff, like an LCD screen on dash, maybe with a PS2, 4 point harness still on my brain, a couple of 12 inch sublows on the trunk with a big poweramp, big rims... I think they all call for something a bit less stock.

Anyway your pic made me look for a custom steering wheel. The stock one of the R34 should work

@ luchoteam:
What do you think about CF hood and matt or satin wheelss? Maybe I can mask the outer rim to keep it chrome.

Anyone else, I have no rush on this one, so I´m still listening to any suggestions!

Thx for following and support.

[Marianitem]

Hi guys. Just a little update, as I´ve been busy building my own paint booth.

I´ve painted the body with a custom made Pearl White. A friend of mine (drawer, painter) mixed some white and silver to simulate some pearl white and it looks pretty good. He used some arts acrylic paints thinned in alcohol and they sprayed really good. On sunny days it looked like the lightest silver with a golden tint. Today it´s very cloudy and it looks gray like the awful day it is (I love it).
I cleared it with Tamiya acrylic x20A + X22 2:1. Gave it a mist & wet, and a second mist & wet. With "mist & wet" I mean I start the load of clear with 1 or 2 mist coats all around and then a wet coat to finish the load. This procedure was done twice. No compatibility issues.
As I had some dust particles (black of course :/) I gave it a little soappy-wetsand with 2400 Mr Laplos cloth, as light as I could and just barely keeping the cloth in place with almost no pressure. I managed to remove all dust particles but... no matter how light and shortly I do it, I ALWAYS RUB THRU.

Some pics of the rubs:


Upper edge of the bumper just a bit to the left over the license plate area, where it looks more like flat white.


On the door handle and the same height to the rear, where ir looks... base white

Solutions needed:
Should I give it another light spray with Pearl White? What would happen spraying over the clear? They are all acrylics but I prefer to ask. BTW, the body texture it´s always a bit grainny, but not sandpaper-like. You can see the texture on the central door post (2nd pic).

And to avoid the rubbing thru, what should I do? How many coats of x22 clear do you suggest, and in which manner?

Please note: using automotive products, 2k clear, and all that toxic stuff is impossible for me. I don´t have a well ventilated area. A mask would work for me, but not for the rest of the apartment, familiy and dog.
Also, I´m trying to learn the use of acrylic paints, so I´m trying to stick to these products even for the body.

Thx for your help guys. I already have 3 projects on standby due to the same problem: RUB-THRU. The only time I succeded was with the FnF Civic, using RustOleum cans. But I cannot make custom colors by mixing (the most fun part of modeling for me) with rattle cans.

[Ferrari TR]

X22 is really soft, 2400 may be too coarse for spot work. I start with 3200 and finish with Scratch-X. Look over the color finish carefully for any bumps or junk before you apply the clear and you should have fewer problems with your finish.

[Marianitem]

@ Ferrari TR
I checked the surface, but they always manage to appear. Weird is that rub thru wasn´t where the dust bits were. It was just me, and the low grit. I´ll start with 4000 next time.
Can I spray over the rough surface of x22? I´m trying to avoid ripping everything off and starting over for just a couple of spots.

I´ve also been working on the interior and I reached the top on the list. I´m now the worst masking modeller The scheme is exactly what I wanted, but I have a lot to touch up. Looks like I didn´t press hard enough the tape. But if I press too hard then it rips the paint off, even if I touch the tape adhesive in order to lower the tack

Look how bad I suck at masking:

I guess I´ll try to rip some black runs, and fill some gaps with brushes. I used to do best with them. Does anyone get a perfect masking job like what I tried here, without having to touch up?

Some with the body over, to show how it goes. Look at the "pearl" on the no-flash pic





As for the engine I have the main thing sitting on the shelf waiting for the chassis to be ready. Pics suck, but you´re not missing anything.
I found some extra parts on the Z-Tune kit (they are the r34 stock parts) that will be useful on this ZX: rims, brakes and steering wheel will be on this one for sure.

Any tips on the masking process are welcome.

[Ferrari TR]

Looks like a painting issue more than a masking one. Thin the second color less than you normally would and spray light mist coats, spray away from the masking not toward it and you can also seal the masking with a coat of clear before you apply the second color.
If the masking is pulling up the paint than your base coat may not be sticking to the parts well, did you prime the parts first?

[Marianitem]

@ Ferrari TR
(about primer) don´t hit me...
I started using primer last year, but just for bodies. I learnt the importance of that but thought it wasn´t that important for interior parts. As I started spraying this interior I realized I was wrong (again). Then I said to myself "ok, from now on I will always primer up to the manual and the box". The only thing I did correctly was to do mist coats.

About the clear for sealing: should I mask what is going to be 2nd color before applying clear to the 1st color?
Or is it OK to spray 2nd color over cleared part?
What happens if I do paint color over clear (in case I have to redo some spot after clearing)?

Thx for your help.

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by Marianitem

And to avoid the rubbing thru, what should I do?

I've never been able to avoid rubbing through paint when sanding a body after painting. I suppose some people can do it (at least some times), but it is all too easy to destroy a paint job this way. To avoid it, I changed when and how I sand. To put it simply, I never sand a body after I'm done painting it. I sand any debris/texture/flaws as they appear in painting. Then I spray another thin layer of paint.

Start with the primer. Sand it until it is absolutely perfect- smooth and shiny. If your primer is good, the paint will be easy. If the primer is not good, nothing you can do with paint or clearcoat will correct it. 70-80% of your time and effort should go into the primer. Spray, sand, inspect, repeat as necessary. Make it perfect before you move on to paint.

Once you're happy with the primer, paint is actually the quickest and easiest step. Spray it on in light mist coats only until it is completely opaque- then stop. Don't apply any more paint than is necessary. If you see any debris/texture/flaws as you paint, stop painting immediately. Wait a bit for the paint to dry, and then fix the flaw with gentle sanding. Once the flaw is fixed, lightly mist on more paint. As soon the paint is fully opaque and without flaws, you're done with paint.

I tend to apply 6-8 light coats of clear, as carefully as possible. I usually spray two coats in one session, but I leave and hour or two in between sessions (at least 3-4 sessions). If any debris or flaws appear, I gently sand them out, then apply more clear.

After the paint and clear are fully dry (several days), I polish it with rubbing compound- ScratchX, Tamiya compound or similar. But I absolutely do not sand the last layer of clearcoat (or the last layer of paint).

This method takes a bit more time and attention as you paint, but I find it much easier and safer then painting quickly and sanding afterwards.

[Ferrari TR]

Sorry if that wasn't too clear.
I use semi gloss clear over most interior parts, as i custom mix a lot of the colors i use and i like an even sheen. Now when masking, after you apply the masking on the first color you can spray a little clear on the edges of your masking and any bleed under the masking will be clear, this should help seal your masking as well so your second color shouldn't bleed under the masking. When you remove the masking you can touchup any issues and then give the parts an overall coat of clear.
I'll have to pull out the 'Lost Z' interior parts and see how i did them.

[Marianitem]

First things first: thx to Ferrari TR and MPWR for your tips. I´ve been reading your tips every week as a reminder of what to do or not.
I´ve been very busy, so I could work a bit on the project but didn´t have time to share.

Exterior: Body is already polished, and believe me, is pearl white. Still to do all the black trim work. Also roof H bars will be black, and hood is waiting for the carbon fiber decal to be printed.

Suspension was lowered and wheels already installed. I used front disk brakes from R34 stock kit, and its 4 wheels painted satin black over chrome. It was my first time lowering suspension and also trimming disk brakes in order to fit bigger wheels. I think I got it quite there. At the end I realized that the chassis was bent, so I added some plastic strips to hold chassis and body in a proper manner. Sorry for the ugly pics.


(Rear wheel stands even closer to body than in picture)

Interior:
Driving area is almost completed. Added seatbelts , seatbelt buckles, GTR34 steering wheel. I´m still waiting to print the LCD screen and maybe add a PS2 console between seats.







On the back I´m also waiting for the car audio parts decals to be printed. There´s a paper preview in the picture of what´s coming in there. 12¨ JL AUDIO speakers, HiFonics power amp, and a white carpet will be added in that area. You can also see the PS2 screen and some carbon fiber on that print (first time doing this kind of stuff).



This project is taking too long. I envy some of you guys who can build a project in maybe a week (I´ve also seen the guy with the Ford GT 24hs build ). I think my next project will be a Fujimi curbside

Thx for watching and coments, and excuse me for those cellphone pics.

[white_R34]

L like every thing you have done so fay, with the exemption of wheel color. I know your not building for the satisfaction of the viewers. I was just wishing you would have kep them silver.

[Marianitem]

@white_R34: Thx for the comments. Stock silver was actually pretty cool, but I don´t really like silver wheels on white cars, but on a blue one I would have kept them silver for sure.

So little update to this build. I got my first home-printed decal sheet so I finished the interior with what was missing: LCD screen, power amp, speakers. Belts are glued to glass part so cannot be seen in these pics.

Also I´ve been brushing some lights, ABing window trims and also roof bars got some black paint on it. I think it gives a more sporty look to the whole thing.







Note the CF hood with MicroSol still drying. This was my first attempt to CF a part. I used self-printed CF decal.
Actually, my 1st attempt failed. The decal curled heavily as I dipped it into water. When I straightened it it got some scratches or cuts and water touched the ink and well, you can imagine the rest. Also, I sprayed the whole CF sheet with clear, but did not add extra clear to the edges after cutting the part I was going to use. It looks like water can get between the clear coat and the decal paper thru that tiny edge and touch the ink, ruining the whole thing.
For my 2nd attempt I cut the piece of decal, fixed the backing paper to a credit card plastic with double sided tape, sprayed extra clear to the edges of the decal piece to seal the whole thing, and after drying I did the applying process. It took a couple of minutes for the water to lift the decal from the backing paper, but there was no curling nor water-to-ink. I could actually lift the decal as a part itself, and it was not fragile at all. I used MicroSet and a lot of MicroSol and had no problem so far.

Looks like almost finished but there´s still too much to do on this one.

Thx for watching and comments. Every word is useful for me

[Ferrari TR]

Very crisp. Inkjet printed decals can be tricky to work with as you've already found out.