Trans won't go back to park, cable slack

[trox]

Rebuilt 2000 2.2 4L60E. On the first couple runs it has 2 issues. Topped up fluid and after going through the gears it makes a scraping noise in first but stops making that noise when it hits second. Could that be the clutch plates being new? It also won't go all the way into Park unless I go under and put it there by hand. The cable has slack in it. Did I leave a spring out or something? I did put the flex spring on the bottom that rides the bumps, is that the only spring force on the lever? The motor sounds good. There are a few other small things but this trans has me worried. I also replaced both universals and their tight, they may be making the noise, I'll have to get under to see if I can tell. I edited this post after a nights sleep so my questions have possible answers.

[trox]

OK, new thought on the tranny shift lever not going all the way to PARK. If I tightened the bolt for the spring when the position was in Neutral, Drive, or lower, maybe the force on the bolt by the spring would have made me think it was tight but it was up on the lever under spring pressure. This means taking the pan off again to check but I can't think what else it could be. It shifts fine all the way to lock up and back. Any body got a clue what else it could be? I still have the scraping noise (don't think it's universal joints now) but not as bad as it started out. It's in first and maybe 3rd a little til it gets going. I might not even hear it if I were on the road but I do cuz I'm on jack stands.

[trox]

Took the pan off to look at the flex spring. It was seated properly. With the spring removed, the shift lever moved freely up to the PARK position, at this point it positions a feedback rod at the back of the case that displaces another small lever that I think has to do with the PARK safety switch or something under the servo. There is only slightly more effort needed to go all the way into PARK at this point. I don't see anything other than the last, bigger hump on the selector lever. The shift cable actually bends when it gets to PARK but it is only a cable trying to push the lever. I was thinking the flex spring would do more to bring the lever back to PARK but it don't seem to. I wish I knew what was going on here. Is there a tranny specialist out there anywhere? Surely this has happened before. HELP????!!!! I'm attaching pictures in the hopes that someone can recognize what's going on and to help understand my rambling. The first is the cable bent as it tries to go to PARK. I can pinch the point where the cable is swagged to the stiff part and it goes all the way to park. The second is my thumb on the PARK hump and finger on the Rev hump. The third is the cable and lever in PARK as it should be.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by trox

Took the pan off to look at the flex spring. It was seated properly. With the spring removed, the shift lever moved freely up to the PARK position, at this point it positions a feedback rod at the back of the case that displaces another small lever that I think has to do with the PARK safety switch or something under the servo. There is only slightly more effort needed to go all the way into PARK at this point. I don't see anything other than the last, bigger hump on the selector lever. The shift cable actually bends when it gets to PARK but it is only a cable trying to push the lever. I was thinking the flex spring would do more to bring the lever back to PARK but it don't seem to. I wish I knew what was going on here. Is there a tranny specialist out there anywhere? Surely this has happened before. HELP????!!!! I'm attaching pictures in the hopes that someone can recognize what's going on and to help understand my rambling. The first is the cable bent as it tries to go to PARK. I can pinch the point where the cable is swagged to the stiff part and it goes all the way to park. The second is my thumb on the PARK hump and finger on the Rev hump. The third is the cable and lever in PARK as it should be.

Your picture tells it all.
Your shift cable is broke.
Get vin no. ready and give your GM parts man a call for a new one.

[trox]

If it's broke, why does it pull all the way down to low? By broke, do you mean it can't bend at the swagged joint where the cable braid meets the solid part at the end? It is kinked there from getting bent so it tends to bend easier. Not to argue MT, I trust you. I just don't want you to go by the first picture where it's trying to push it into PARK. How hard is it to change this cable? I'm sure I'll find out the hard way.
THANKS MT for the input.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by trox

If it's broke, why does it pull all the way down to low? By broke, do you mean it can't bend at the swagged joint where the cable braid meets the solid part at the end? It is kinked there from getting bent so it tends to bend easier. Not to argue MT, I trust you. I just don't want you to go by the first picture where it's trying to push it into PARK. How hard is it to change this cable? I'm sure I'll find out the hard way.
THANKS MT for the input.

As the pictures says it is broke.
1 and no 3 pictures shows it is broke.
The plastic housing that works for cable push holder is broke/gone.
Your cable can not push but can pull.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by trox

if it's broke, why does it pull all the way down to low? By broke, do you mean it can't bend at the swagged joint where the cable braid meets the solid part at the end? It is kinked there from getting bent so it tends to bend easier. Not to argue mt, i trust you. I just don't want you to go by the first picture where it's trying to push it into park. How hard is it to change this cable? I'm sure i'll find out the hard way.
Thanks mt for the input.

ya the plastic shroud is broken ! No push just pull..

Scrap yard or dealership..

[trox]

New cable works great, I guess if you can see cable, it's no good. Took to the road for the first time off jack stands and I still have a scraping noise from the transmission in first and maybe reverse. It's not a continuous 360 degree scrap but a scrap scrap scrap scrap that gets faster as I go until second gear and it goes away. There is also a clicking noise as I coast down to a stop that may be the same but not sure. Neither of these are real bad but just not sure about them. A friend of mine rebuilt the trans for me after some hesitation on his part but he does his own work and has done 5 or 6 4L60e's successfully and has the tools to do it so I was willing to take the chance for the cost. Besides, I got to help and learn, mostly learn. Any ideas on the scrap noise? Think it'll go away when the new parts wear in?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by trox

New cable works great, I guess if you can see cable, it's no good. Took to the road for the first time off jack stands and I still have a scraping noise from the transmission in first and maybe reverse. It's not a continuous 360 degree scrap but a scrap scrap scrap scrap that gets faster as I go until second gear and it goes away. There is also a clicking noise as I coast down to a stop that may be the same but not sure. Neither of these are real bad but just not sure about them. A friend of mine rebuilt the trans for me after some hesitation on his part but he does his own work and has done 5 or 6 4L60e's successfully and has the tools to do it so I was willing to take the chance for the cost. Besides, I got to help and learn, mostly learn. Any ideas on the scrap noise? Think it'll go away when the new parts wear in?

Jack it up and put it on stands and put it in gear and see if you can hear it.
If so craw under there and have some on put it in gear and look and listen for what area ir is coming from.

[trox]

After about 50 miles on the road, the srap noise is pretty much gone. All is good with the tranny. I'm lookin for some wood to knock on.