2000 Windstar Inner Tie Rods

[olopezm]

Hello people,

it's been some time since I last posted here. Today I managed to fix a new problem with the clockspring in my windstar (hopefully it will last some time and I'll avoid having to buy a new one soon, I just bought it new wheels!) and now the next thing to do are inner tie rods. I've been reading some threads saying they had a hard time with their tie rod wrench set, some broke, some other had to be modified... etc. etc.

The question is:

Is there any "easy" way to replace them?
Any of you guys have any tips or a good step by step guide?
Should I just take the van to the shop and pay for it?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Oscar.

[wiswind]

I had mine done at my local independant shop......inner and outer done at the same time.
Over 200K on the originals.
Short story, aside from directing you to a good repair manual, I have nothing to offer since I have never done the job.
Several members here have, and they will have some great advice to offer.
One oppinion that I will offer for front suspension parts, I prefer to get parts with grease fittings whenever possible.
However, this is not an option for the inner tie rod ends......but it is something that I STRONGLY suggest for the outer tie rod ends.
MOOG is the brand name that I look for when buying any suspension part.
Rock Auto has the Moog inner tie rod end for the 2000 windstar for $23.89 each.
They are listed under "Steering" parts.

[12Ounce]

I prefer just to replace the whole steering rack. That way a number of other worn components are dealth with altogether ... not the easiest of jobs, but it may be as easy as dealing with the two inner rods.

[mark_gober]

I've done this job three times and people are correct, it can be a difficult job. I tried using the wrench from Autozone, but it will not work on the Windstar's tie rods because of how it is designed. The ones from Pep Boys work. (They function similar to a crows foot wrench. Having said that, they also fit like a bad socket and can round out. All in all, a PITA every time I've done it. Although the costs is something to consider, the next time I do it, I may just replace the steering rack.

[olopezm]

Thank you for your time guys, I guess that wasn't the type of answer I was hoping to get as I was expecting it to be an easier job but thanks to your advise I'll think about either replacing the rack or taking it to the shop and have the tie rods replaced. The rack isn't bad at all, no leaks, boots are fine and steering is as soft as the first day I drove the van.

I'll check prices for both cases and will decide what's better for my pocket... You know money is tight these days but safety is first!.

Oscar.

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by olopezm

.... but safety is first!......

When a rack fails, it can fail with the steering wheel suddenly "locked" ... and usually almost straight-ahead. Not very safe!

[northern piper]

I've done this job as well, electing to do all suspension components at the same time (inner/outer, LCA, struts,..) and the crows foot wrench is the one you need, along with a big monkey wrench or adjustable wrench to hold the rack while you remove the inner tie rod. It's on with loctite and if you don't hold the rack and simply twist the inner tie rod off it'll mess up the rack. Most new components or after market ones will fit the long socket style inner tie rod tool which is way easier to use. Probably the biggest pita is getting the boots back on and the air exchange tube reconnected. Lotsa bandaids needed for this job.

If you do a search on my user name you'll pull up a fairly detailed description of what I did, along with the warning about making sure to use the locking pin and loctite to hold the inner tie rod tight to the rack.

p

[tomj76]

I replaced my inner tie rods this weekend on my '96 Windstar. This was the second, or maybe third time I've done this job. I believe it took me about 1 hr for each side.

Here are a few points to watch out for:
1) When you purchase inner tie rods, there are two versions of the hex end of the tie rod. One type can work with the tie rod "socket" wrench that autozone loans out. The other requires a crows foot style tool. Make sure you get the type that will work with your tools.

2) Make certain that your tie rods include something to "set" the rod once it is in place on the steering rack. Otherwise they can come loose. Some come with a spring pin, others a set screw. Some people (including shop mechanics) just use a thread locking material.

3) The body/fenderwell on my model year interferes with using the socket tool when it's on the tie rod end. I've used a large open end wrench to access the tie rod end, but there is just over 30 degree access on the driver side, and less on the passenger side due to the rear heating and a/c pipes and hoses. The limited access can make it difficult to tighten.

[parkerb]

i replaced my ITRs on the '00. mine didn't have the pin. had rented the autozoo stuff and it was junk. just used a big adjustable wrench to screw the ITR along with another (i don't know the size) wrench to hold the rack from the extra torque. and the locktite. take your time. was no biggie.
get the alignment.

[olopezm]

Thanks to each one of you guys.

I tried to find either the long socket or the crow's foot but couldn't find any autoparts shop that sells it, the guy at autozone didn't even know about it, it sucks not to have different options when it comes to stores like you guys do up north...

In the end I decided to sell my soul to the devil (nah just kidding LOL) and took it to the shop, it took an hour to get them replaced, both inner/outer tie rods, and I think 100 dlls for the job wasn't that bad.

Northern Piper I saw your post and I'm glad you and your family are OK!

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU, the van is finally back on the road and hopefully will stay like that for a long time.

BEST REGARDS,

OSCAR.

[olopezm]

Guys I just remembered, when they took the wheels off I saw the paint came off in some places of the shock absorbers (kinda like small freckles only a few millimeters wide) and seemed a bit rusty (I wouldn't say it was bad) in fact it might be the only rust on the whole van, we don't have those problems here in Mexico. The guy said I might need new shocks soon because of that. Unfortunately I couldn't take any picture of it.

Do you think that's something I should be worried about?. The van doesn't bounces nor the shocks are leaking...

Thanks in advance.

Oscar.

[parkerb]

make a new thread.
i recall a small mark on mine close in proximity to where the tire turns. when i glanced at mine i thought the strut body was decaying- it looked like a pin hole. my '00 had tokicos and the '02 has kyb from tire rack. i forget now which van i saw it on.

if you're suspension feels fine, i would just keep an eye on it. how old are the parts?

[olopezm]

Thanks Parker, will open a new thread about it.