Power Windows don't work - any of them!

[xopt1js]

Hi all, got a 1998 4-door SE and the drivers window switch was broken so I used a bobby pin to get the window to go up and down. All the other windows worked until last night..........

Put the bobby pin in and heard a weird popping like noise and now none of the windows work.

I tested the seat circuit breaker in the window slot but to no avail. I then tested the window circuit breaker in the seat slot and it was fine.

Manual says the circuit breaker will shut down if the current load is too heavy.

Did I mess up the electrical system or do I just need a new switch? If it's just a switch, how can I get my window up until I get a new switch and have my other windows work?

Thanks in advance.

[brcidd]

Does the yellow wire behind the switch show continuous +12v to ground? If not, you may have smoked a connector, or a weak spot in the wire- like in the door rubber conduit where the wire flexes every door opening/closing.

Also check the yellow wire at the fuse block behind the power window circuit breaker. And check the input terminal to the breaker for voltage. One of the two legs of that breaker (when unplugged) has to be hot- is it?

Your Pontiac also uses the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) to allow window movement after ignition has been shut off for about 10 minutes. So does the radio now still stay on after you shut off engine (with driver's door still closed)- or does it too not work. There is a RAP relay in the circuit that can be checked.

[xopt1js]

Originally Posted by brcidd

Does the yellow wire behind the switch show continuous +12v to ground? If not, you may have smoked a connector, or a weak spot in the wire- like in the door rubber conduit where the wire flexes every door opening/closing.

Also check the yellow wire at the fuse block behind the power window circuit breaker. And check the input terminal to the breaker for voltage. One of the two legs of that breaker (when unplugged) has to be hot- is it?

Your Pontiac also uses the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) to allow window movement after ignition has been shut off for about 10 minutes. So does the radio now still stay on after you shut off engine (with driver's door still closed)- or does it too not work. There is a RAP relay in the circuit that can be checked.

Thanks for the quick reply. I did not check the yellow wire behind the switch but I will when I get home.

The breaker was definitely warm when I removed it so I'm assuming thats OK. Radio works fine but not sure if it stays on after shutting the car off.

Wire seems fine at the door jam so I think I may fried the circuit board under the switch

Providing it is the switch or circuit board, is there a way to get my window up?

[brcidd]

Sure- there are three ways..first two are assuming you have power at switch....

!. With switch out of holder, but still plugged in- hold it in "up" position and jumper 12v (yellow wire to dk blue wire)-- (I use two hat pins- get those from sewing dept in Walmart) But it is very important you hold switch on "up" position, otherwise you will short circuit yellow wire- Like maybe you already did and what caused you to write this post.

2. Unplug switch and jumper yellow to dk blue AND jumper brown to black wires. Takes four pins to do this, or two test leads.

Of course, both these methods depend on there being 12v at yellow wire, and a good ground at black wire-- which ARE in question. You said NO power windows work-- so I will bet you are missing 12v hot at yellow wire, OR the ground on black wire.

3. If above are not there....then find them--With switch unplugged, run a fused jumper from Dk Blue to battery hot (anywhere you can get it- fuse box, battery positivre post), and with a good body ground, ground the Brown with another test lead-- window should go up.

The circuit is a reversible one. when Dk Blue is hot and Brown is ground, window goes up... when Dk Blue is ground and Brown is hot, window goes down... The DC window motor is not polarity sensitive- it turns either direction, depending on polarity.

[BNaylor]

Save yourself any further troubles and replace the switch assembly as soon as possible. It sounds like you fried the switch assembly. Remember 12 volts B+ for all doors if off that driver's door switch. You don't want to cause any further damage. And be careful using jumper wires. Good luck!