DCCV and bleeding

[JTsmks]

Just changed my DCCV and I have top say the word "fun" or "easy" doesn't come to mind and thats from a Licensed A&P mech and Flight Engineer....also the bleed instructions are useless IMHO the thing on the 3.0 engine deemed an engine "bleed" is anything but useless. I finally pulled the upper rad hose at the rad and put water in the radiator till full then filled the hose under mild pressure till it ran out the bottle on the fire wall then quickly reinstalled the hose then I pulled the small hose at the engine bleeder and rigged a vacuum hose to a high funnel and filled with coolant till it ran from the firewall bottle....NO AIR in the system after that and it worked 4.0 from then on....useing the factory bleed instructions I would have been there longer then the already two hours trying to bleed it plus would have blown a head gasket in good time. Personally I don't recommend them but then again YMMMV.

[danielsatur]

Add a Prestone flush pluming kit , and disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.
This will open the DCCV for both driver and passenger side cores.
Do the water pressure engine block 1st, than the heater coolant bleed next.
You can do this with engine being cool and not running, so you don't burn yourself.
Do a Forum search ''Coolant bleed'' , I came up with my own procedure too, got tired of being burned by hot coolant, and bad procedures.

[nuckolsk]

need help. doing the clunking sway bar and lin replacement and dccv solenoid in the way of bolt for sway bar. where is the bracket bolt for the dccv solenoid to move out of way?

[shorod]

Hmmm, I don't remember needing to remove the DCCV from the mounting to replace the anti-sway bar bushings. I seem to recall that I just used a socket with a wobble extension (not a full u-joint, more of a ball end). And I don't think I removed the bolt completely either. I think I removed the one that was easier to get to, then loosened the one above the DCCV just enough so I could get the bushing free from the bracket, slid the bushing to the side, removed it from the bar, then basically did the same thing to install the new bushing. Hopefully someone who's done this more recently and/or has a better memory than me will chime in.

I assume you're talking bushings rather than the link since the DCCV would in no way be in the way for replacing the links.

-Rod