Can you put motor in wrong that effects the transmission?

[happydog500]

Don't need to go into a lot of details on my year old problem, posted twice but they are outdated.

Briefly, trans is good. Put in a new motor. Runs good, except when I step on it. The RPM's run up but lacks performance.

"Runs like cat is clogged." Cat tests good. "Runs like a clogged fuel filter." Changed it but no improvement.

Been stumped. In my apartment parking lot, I saw a mobile auto repair guy fixing a persons car. I got him to scan real-time data. Everything is good. We didn't get to drive it, but just do it sitting in the parking lot.
TPS, O2's everything was working good. No DTC's.

Now that I found out what the motor was doing, it must be in the transmission.

Problem specific; Trans works good. Motor goes out. Replace motor. Trans that works good now doesn't. Can you screw up a transmission by changing a motor? How or what could this be?

A side point I would ask is, when they say torque converter, is that like a clutch on my transmission, or does mine have a clutch and a torque converter? Can these go in wrong so it will work as long as I don't step on it hard?

I have been dealing with this for a year and, now maybe have it pinpointed more to solve the problem.

Please give me any information that could help me understand what's going on.

Thank you,
Chris.

[maxwedge]

Not sure exactly what your symptoms based on the info provided? Does it shift thru all the gears at speed, will it acclerate to 50, is the the trans slipping or starting in 2cnd?

[Scrapper]

if don't keep fluid filter changed your going to problems. after 100000 mls. on them then start having more than just the tranny problems but they are good 3800 motors. have you had to replace harmontic balenser yet?

[happydog500]

Car shifts in all the gears fine. I can go over 50. I think the fastest I've had it is 95mph so far.

One discription is, if your on the freeway and floor it, it's like it's not going from 4th to 3rd, but into second (don't beleve it's acctuly doing that, it's just a discription), the RPM's go way up, but the car doesn't accelerate like it used to. Happends around town at any speed, not just the freeway.

Feels LIKE a clutch slipping, but it's consistant, not like a clutch. No slipping code. Not sure what's going on. Don't want to replace the transsmission and have it be something else.

Chris.

[maxwedge]

To be sure it should be scanned with a trans function scanner to check for gear errors and ratios, in each gear, or have an experienced trans tech road test the car for on onsite diagnosis.

[HotZ28]

When you replaced the engine, did you use the coils from the old engine, or the replacement?

[Scrapper]

did you drain torque converter when you done this and fill it back up with new fluid before installing?

[happydog500]

I think we used the replacement coils. Can't remember if friend put new fluid in torque converter.

I keep thinking it can't be in transmission, since it's the same trans that worked. The only thing we changed is the motor.

My original thought in posting this was to get something to take into my friends shop.

I was hoping to say something that motivates him to look into it (or me figure it out so I don't have to rely on him). Like, When we did the swap, I think you 'didn't put the screw on the torque converter' right (I know this isn't what can happen, just an example). That way, he will look into weather that was done right. While looking, he will keep trying to figure out what happens.

I was hoping to be able to know: Motor works real good. Transmission works real good. Put them together, they don't work right.

If it's not the motor, it's not the transmission, what else could it be?

Chris.

[maxwedge]

Just a guess based on not really knowing the driveability symptoms, see if you have the trans modulator hose hooked up and vacuum to it??

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by happydog500

I think we used the replacement coils.

Install the original coils (if you still have them.) Believe it or not, we recently had a '98 LeSabre in our shop that had the same symptoms as yours and it did not display any codes or misfires. During routine engine service, new coils, plugs & wires were installed at the customers request, but evidently one, or two of the NEW coils were bad. The engine would idle fine; however, the trans would shift like it had a slip. It seemed to loose power under acceleration, and the rpms would increase, but the car was not moving. Actually, it felt just like trans was slipping! We knew the trans was in good shape before the service, so we eliminated that as being the culprit. After many frustrating diagnostic test which reveled nothing, we decided that the new coils we installed may be the problem and since they were under warranty, we replace all three (not knowing which one, or two were bad) and the problem was solved! Strange as it may seem, but for real!

[happydog500]

Wow!! Good tip. I will try the old one and post back. I think I remember them sitting in his shop.
Thank you for your experience,
Chris.

P.S. One guy told me the same thing (not codes), but it was the MAF or MAP Sensor.

[Scrapper]

yah you should have drained torgue converter incase of shavings it it. what i do is let them odrain over night theres a plug in there to do the draning. and if you even buy new torq you even fill a new one and let it set all night with new fluid and then pull plug and see if it's still full.good luck.....

[maxwedge]

What plug are you pulling to see if a torque convertor is full?

[Blue Bowtie]

It really doesn't matter if the converter got filled (technically, half-filled) before installation. While it's always a good idea to add oil to the converter before installation to assure lubrication and some turbine drive on startup, the trans oil pump will fill the converter pretty quickly as soon as the engine starts and runs the pump. The Buicks use a 9½" converter and it holds just under three quarts. It takes a good trans pump about 326 revolutions to move a gallon of oil. That means with a curb idle of 850 RPM the converter would be filled in less than 20 seconds if ti were completely empty Since it can only gravity drain halfway when the engine shuts off, that would be more like 10 seconds. Granted, some oil is always being routed to the differential for lubrication in the 4T60 and 65 transmissions, but the point is that the torque converter will fill pretty quickly on startup unless there is a problem with the trans hydraulics, input shaft seals, pump, or converter check valve in the end of the turbine shaft.

This is just one more reason to start the engine using a regimen, allowing the engine and trans oil to start circulating properly before putting any load on the engine (such as revving or placing it in a gear). If you want maximum service life and satisfaction, turn on the ignition, watch the MIL "bounce" one to prove it has passed the POST, make sure the warning lights operate, wait for the SECURITY light to turn off, wait for the ABS light to turn off, allow the fuel pump to run its prime cycle, THEN crank the engine. you can learn a lot by just watching the system operate, if you know what you are looking at.

Once started, release the key immediately and patiently allow the engine and trans to warm for 60 seconds. Either that, or live with all the problems caused by the abuse. The worst thing you can do to an engine is start it. Since you have little choice, start it in the most conservative manner. The second worst thing is load the engine before it is at ready, and the next worst is to operate under heavy load before it is at full temperature. If you like having a new car every year, disregard the previous instructions.

[happydog500]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

It really doesn't matter if the converter got filled (technically, half-filled) before installation. While it's always a good idea to add oil to the converter before installation to assure lubrication and some turbine drive on startup, the trans oil pump will fill the converter pretty quickly as soon as the engine starts and runs the pump. The Buicks use a 9½" converter and it holds just under three quarts. It takes a good trans pump about 326 revolutions to move a gallon of oil. That means with a curb idle of 850 RPM the converter would be filled in less than 20 seconds if ti were completely empty Since it can only gravity drain halfway when the engine shuts off, that would be more like 10 seconds. Granted, some oil is always being routed to the differential for lubrication in the 4T60 and 65 transmissions, but the point is that the torque converter will fill pretty quickly on startup unless there is a problem with the trans hydraulics, input shaft seals, pump, or converter check valve in the end of the turbine shaft.

This is just one more reason to start the engine using a regimen, allowing the engine and trans oil to start circulating properly before putting any load on the engine (such as revving or placing it in a gear). If you want maximum service life and satisfaction, turn on the ignition, watch the MIL "bounce" one to prove it has passed the POST, make sure the warning lights operate, wait for the SECURITY light to turn off, wait for the ABS light to turn off, allow the fuel pump to run its prime cycle, THEN crank the engine. you can learn a lot by just watching the system operate, if you know what you are looking at.

Once started, release the key immediately and patiently allow the engine and trans to warm for 60 seconds. Either that, or live with all the problems caused by the abuse. The worst thing you can do to an engine is start it. Since you have little choice, start it in the most conservative manner. The second worst thing is load the engine before it is at ready, and the next worst is to operate under heavy load before it is at full temperature. If you like having a new car every year, disregard the previous instructions.

Thank you for the reminders. I think I got into the habit of leaving to soon.
Chris.