timing marks off???????

[Applianguy]

I'm trying to reinstall a distrib and when the #1 piston is at the compression stroke the timing marks on the crank pulley are way off. What now??????? New hormonic??????

Mike

[danielsatur]

Are you sure it's on the compression stroke, use a compression guage?
4-strokes per cylinder!

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Are you sure it's on the compression stroke, use a compression guage?
4-strokes per cylinder!

Yep......used compression guage, as soon as pressure showed pulled guage and topped the piston with a straw. At top the timing marks were bottom of crank pully????????

[danielsatur]

Like 180 degrees off!

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Like 180 degrees off!

No........more like 3 inches from mark on crank to mark in timing cover. Can the harmonic have slipped??????? Lining up marks an piston is half way down.

Mike

[old_master]

Compression tester will show 2 pulses for each crankshaft rotation. A weak one on the exhaust stroke, and a strong one on the compression stroke. Watch it closely while it's cranking and you'll see the difference.

Follow these and it will be right on. If the distributor is off one or more teeth in either direction, P1345 will be set. If no P1345, you've got it right. When you've got it installed, check camshaft retard with a capable scan tool. Should be zero, plus or minus 2 degrees.

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by old_master

Compression tester will show 2 pulses for each crankshaft rotation. A weak one on the exhaust stroke, and a strong one on the compression stroke. Watch it closely while it's cranking and you'll see the difference.

Follow these and it will be right on. If the distributor is off one or more teeth in either direction, P1345 will be set. If no P1345, you've got it right. When you've got it installed, check camshaft retard with a capable scan tool. Should be zero, plus or minus 2 degrees.

When I line both marks like that #1 piston is halfway down cylinder????
WTF?????????????

[old_master]

Did this thing run before you took the distributor out?

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by old_master

Did this thing run before you took the distributor out?

Yes it ran great except for a lower intake waterleak. Person helping yanked dist out without marking it.....last time I leave to take a pee!

Mike

[viggy58]

when i took mine out for the intake gasket job, i had to get it set at TDC, then use a long screwdriver, to make the input for the oil pump line up, otherwise it was off.

Make sure you get to TDC, then put the distributor in. look at the second image that old master posted. if the rotor is not in the right spot, you will have to manually turn the oil pump until it rotor is in the right spot. kinda tough. you'll need a flat blade at least 8 inches long i think, then you just have to feel it out. take the dist out, and stick the screw driver down the dist shaft. if you can get some light in there, you'll see what you need to aim for.

This usually happens if the car is moved with the dist out. in my case, my old ass clutch slipped, and the blazer rolled about 3-4 feet.

if this sounds like more than you want to mess with, a local shop will usually get it all setup and in-time for about $60-$100. if you can get it close enough to run, the comp will compensate enough to drive it a couple miles to a shop, if necessary. It was actually a local mechanic who told me what to do to fix mine.

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by viggy58

when i took mine out for the intake gasket job, i had to get it set at TDC, then use a long screwdriver, to make the input for the oil pump line up, otherwise it was off.

Make sure you get to TDC, then put the distributor in. look at the second image that old master posted. if the rotor is not in the right spot, you will have to manually turn the oil pump until it rotor is in the right spot. kinda tough. you'll need a flat blade at least 8 inches long i think, then you just have to feel it out. take the dist out, and stick the screw driver down the dist shaft. if you can get some light in there, you'll see what you need to aim for.

This usually happens if the car is moved with the dist out. in my case, my old ass clutch slipped, and the blazer rolled about 3-4 feet.

if this sounds like more than you want to mess with, a local shop will usually get it all setup and in-time for about $60-$100. if you can get it close enough to run, the comp will compensate enough to drive it a couple miles to a shop, if necessary. It was actually a local mechanic who told me what to do to fix mine.

Been there got oil shaft no problem. Problem is that with the piston at the compression stroke and topped up, the timing marks on the crank are way off. I'm thinking harmonic balancer slipped. I did find the bolt loose but the keyway is ok. I'm NOT guessing on timing this thing..again

Thanks Mike

[old_master]

Just making sure here.... #1 plug is on the driver side. If the marks are off and the woodruff key is ok, the dampener must have slipped. If that's the case, get #1 piston on TDC and install the distributor. If it won't start, the distributor is 180 degrees out of phase... pull it and rotate the shaft 180 and reinstall.

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by old_master

Just making sure here.... #1 plug is on the driver side. If the marks are off and the woodruff key is ok, the dampener must have slipped. If that's the case, get #1 piston on TDC and install the distributor. If it won't start, the distributor is 180 degrees out of phase... pull it and rotate the shaft 180 and reinstall.

I know you have to check for a dummy but yes I know were #1 cly is. I looked at my 96 s10 4.3 today and the timing marks are differant in comparison with the woodruff key location. So either it a differant engine or the damper slipped or wrond harmonic. I'll have a new one on there by tonight. Is anyway to tell if its a "W" engine? And can any "w" engine replace it? This is suppose to be a 14,000 mile motor but has 200,000 in ugliness inside.

Thanks...mike

[old_master]

95 and older W engines are CMFI, large plenum on top of intake. 96 and newer is CSFI and has a low profile black plastic plenum. Better check with a boneyard on the interchange for the dampener. I don't believe they're interchangable. 95 and older did not use a crankshaft position sensor, 96 and newer does. Somewhere around 2001 they became an X motor. The only difference is the X has injectors at the intake ports instead of centrally located. It's a great upgrade for 96 and newer W engines. Check your old dampener, see if the rubber looks like it shifted, if not, just bring it up to TDC and use the dampener you have.

[Applianguy]

Originally Posted by old_master

95 and older W engines are CMFI, large plenum on top of intake. 96 and newer is CSFI and has a low profile black plastic plenum. Better check with a boneyard on the interchange for the dampener. I don't believe they're interchangable. 95 and older did not use a crankshaft position sensor, 96 and newer does. Somewhere around 2001 they became an X motor. The only difference is the X has injectors at the intake ports instead of centrally located. It's a great upgrade for 96 and newer W engines. Check your old dampener, see if the rubber looks like it shifted, if not, just bring it up to TDC and use the dampener you have.

There isNo crank sensor and it has a large metal upper intake. Can I upgrade to CSFI if I change COmputer and will a 96 computer plugin???????

Thanks again
mike