Rotor warping problems

[Dastardly]

2008 Chevy Cobalt LT 4 door

The steering wheel started shaking every auto shop said rotor's. I had them replaced along with new pads of course. Fixed the issue for about 1k miles.

Now the shaking is back, I don't know what to do.... Sometimes when I drive it doesn't happen so bad, but other times, the steering wheel shakes furiously.

Any thoughts?

[rhandwor]

Originally Posted by Dastardly

2008 Chevy Cobalt LT 4 door

The steering wheel started shaking every auto shop said rotor's. I had them replaced along with new pads of course. Fixed the issue for about 1k miles.

Now the shaking is back, I don't know what to do.... Sometimes when I drive it doesn't happen so bad, but other times, the steering wheel shakes furiously.

Any thoughts?

Poor quality pads and using the vehicle in a heavy rain will warp rotors.
Go back to the shop and complain maybe they turned them past allowable limits.

[AJT1961]

I have a 2007 LT1 Sedan with 88,000 miles I have owned since new. I occasionally have the same problem you describe. I know that it feels exactly like warped rotors when I get that pulsing/shaking, but I'm not entirely convinced that is the problem. My car still has the original rotors and, believe it or not, front pads (which still have about 30% left!). I have had the front pulsing/bucking/shaking while braking intermittently, most recently last week it was pretty bad when applying the brakes at 70mph. This week it is more or less gone. This has happened many times over the past 3 years. Before last week, it hadn't happened for a few months. My thinking is that if it were warped rotors, it seems unlikely that they would warp and unwarp over and over again, although I guess anything is possible. Even steel has a certain shape-memory. I'm beginning to think that maybe it happens when I let the car sit for a few days (which I rarely do) due to some rust forming on parts of the rotors which needs time to rub off. Anyway, that is what I am mentally "watching" for now to see if that is the case. Oddly enough, my wife's 2005 Chevy Uplander (also purchased new) did the same exact same thing from time to time, and I never replaced the rotors and just traded it in with over 120,000 miles. My conclusion is that the worst thing you can do is to replace the original rotors with those cheap aftermarket Chinese rotors, because I did that with my 2000 Chevy Blazer (which I still have) and the steel quality of those rotors is so poor, I have to basically replace them every 2 years because they simply rust away just from the moist outside air -- I drive the car less than 1000 miles per year! My advice would be to stick with oem rotors, never have them cut, and wait for the problem to resolve itself. Good luck and let us know what happens.

[mphhampton]

have you had the bake brakes checked somtimes when back brakes are bad will cause front ones to overheat and warp the rotors.

[mphhampton]

have you had the back brakes checked somtimes when back brakes are bad will cause front ones to overheat and warp the rotors.

[AJT1961]

Check out this article, it makes sense:

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

[cobaltloverwannabe]

I'm having the same wheel shaking issue, seems to come and go. I bought new rotors and pads and tried to install, but the first rotor I tried to remove seems rusted on. Mecanical cleaning and WD40 around pilot, studs, and inside hub don't free it. Is there a way to remove the rotor without dynamite? Has anyone had any real help from a dealer on an LT? The car has 90K and the pads and rotors LOOK great but the rotors must be warped. I need to put a dial indicator on them to know for sure. The new Cruze looks nice but because of Cobalt control arms bushing problems and now this wheel shake, I'm ready to switch brands after almost 30 years of buying new GM.

[AJT1961]

I assume you cut off any of those little round retainer clips on the studs. Try using some PB Blaster spray on the rust (available at most parts stores), as WD40 isn't a rust dissolver. And sometimes you just need a bigger hammer. I've been lucky not to need to take my Cobalt LT to the dealer for anything. But I just had to bring my wife's new Malibu in for warranty work at the Chevy dealer and I'm convinced that that particular dealer's shop has really taken the Americans with Disabilities Act to heart in its hiring.