things to know about grand cherokees

[cookie2]

Here is a list of problems I have compiled. Please feel free to add to the list or correct my list.
Problem #1 brakes:
I believe the problem is with the caliper. It has two large pistons and applies a lot more force to the brake pads and rotors. I found that replacing the rotors with Bendex suv rotors will help extend the life of the rotor. The Bendex pads last forever, I've had the same pads and rotors for over 45K on my YJ running 33 inch tires. Try the Bendex
Problem #2 recalls:
Hey, guess what? You can check for recalls and stuff on the Jeep website:
http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/...rm%28%27R%27%29

You enter the last 8 digits of your VIN and it will tell you if the work has been performed.

Problem #3 Death Wobble:
shake uncontrollably while hitting bumps!
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/techa...athwobble.html

Problem #4 crank but won't start

check engine light does not come on , starts after check engine light comes on .. most likely computer chip, or CPS
your problem is not the Camshaft Position sensor, if it was the camshaft Position Sensor, it wouldn't crank at all. but it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS).
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module (aka: ECU, ECM) - Computer

CPS - CrankShaft Position Sensor

- one way to determine a bad CPS, is when the CHECK ENGINE light DOES NOT come on, pull one of the wires off of a plug and hold it close to something metal (bolt) and have someone crank the engine while you look for spark - NO SPARK, Also check to see if the fuel Pump is kicking on, take gas cap off, Place you ear next to the filler neck, have someone turn the key to the ON position and listen closely for the fuel pump to kick on (whirring sound).

NO FUEL PUMP and NO SPARK = Bad CPS, it could also be the PCM but like I mentioned about most likely the CPS they are prone to go bad causing these and numerous other problems. If you would like the test for the CPS email me.

The PCM is located in the Engine Compartment on the Passenger Side firewall (behind the Coolant reserve bottle - on 5.2L/5.9L engines, not sure about 4.0L).

the CPS - on 4.0L is located on the driver side of the Transmission Bellhousing. On 5.2L/5.9L it is located on the Passenger Side Engine block right behind the right Exhaust manifold.

Problem #5 fuel pump/regulator

Sounds like either the Ignition Coil and/or Fuel Pump is overheating and shutting down (usually takes 10-15 minutes before will allow to restart). Next time it happens Check to see if the Fuel Pump is kicking on when you turn the key to the ON Position. It will be hard to hear, I can barely hear mine, I have to have the cap off and hold my ear against the filler hole and have someone turn the key to the ON position. If the Fuel Pump is coming on, then check for spark. these are known to OVERHEAT and SHUTDOWN, I had my Ignition Coil overheat when I had a bad wire which was arcing real bad and I was f&*kin around in the snow and it shutdown on me. replaced the ignition coil 3 times before I found the bad wire, which I already knew about but didn't think that would cause the problem.
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Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator maybe going bad and gas is returning to tank. When you try to start it has to reprime the fuel line and fuel rail before it starts. try turning the key on and wait 30-45 seconds then try starting. If it starts then the fuel pressure is leaking.
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I don't thinks it's a fuel problem but check this, turn the key to the ON position and and wait like 5 seconds, then do it again (this will prime the fuel lines) then try to start the jeep if it still doesn't start then it's not a fuel problem.
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HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE WITH A GAUGE. WHEN MINE WENT OUT YOU COULD DRIVE ALL YOU WANTED BUT TRY TO PUT IN PASSING GEAR COMPLETE BOG OUT, LIFT OFF BACK TO NORMAL JUST A THOUGHT DALE
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If it is CamShaft position Sensor (under the distributor cap) this has a magnet that gets dislodged and sometimes causes this problem it won't start at all.

Problem #6 crankshaft sensor
symptoms:
When you are driving it will suddenly lose power like it is not getting fuel when you press the gas pedal. It will spit and sputter a bit and then run again. Sometimes it works fine and other times it runs horrible, or car will not start sometimes.

If you're replacing one and there isn't a piece of paper on end of replacement then no adjustment or gap needed. If there is a piece of paper on the end, don't remove it unless directions tell you to. It will come off when you start jeep.
well, I took the bull by the tail and faced the situation, but first I had to be smarter than the CPS,
I tied a long string to the disconnected cannon plug , in the engine compartment ,used a long extension , with a universal swivel attachment for the socket on a ratchet , removed the CPS bolt, tied another string on the old CPS end along with the new cannon plug
and pulled it thru over the bell housing into the engine compartment , otherwise it would have been very difficult to install any other way ...and glad thats over

Problem#7 – won't accelerate
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee that loses power after being driven a couple hours...It continues to run but, it doesn't accelerate when given gas. If I turn it off for 5 to 10 minutes..... it will start and drive as normal. While looking at the message board it appears that the tps throttle position sensor or the crankshaft sensor could be the problem. Where are these sensors located? I changed the TPS and it solved my problem it is on the left side of the throttle body under the air box, real simple to change.

Problem #8 Not shifting gears

Could be a governor valve sticking, Transmission output sensor, maybe a TPS or a front band adjustment, TV cable

O/D light comes on when starting car won't shift – computer problem
won't shift out low gear - ?
TV Cable—is pedal getting easier to push?
Governor transducer and solenoid
intermittently- transmission output sensor

Problem#9- TPS

After a few hours on the turnpike it would buck and kick and I could not drive any faster then 55 mph.
The TPS is located on the throttle body at the end of the throttle shaft. By monitoring the output voltage from the TPS, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (Driver Demand). A broken or loosen throttle position sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle b/c of the PCM thinks the throttle is moving.

Problem #10 IAC motor

I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee with exactly the same problem. I just got home after stalling in a busy intersection for 20 min. The car has been in the garage and they were unable to find any problems. They cleaned the throttle body and the car worked fine for a couple of weeks

would agree it sounds like an IAC problem , b/c it only seems to do this when the throttle plates are closed, when the throttle is closed, the IAC opens to allow air to by-pass the throttle plates into the engine to keep it running.

try this to determine if the IAC is bad, start engine, place in gear (drive, Reverse), turn A/C on, and operate the power steering pump (turn wheel slightly right or left). the rpms should increase slightly or remain steady, if it drops or stumbles then the IAC is definitely bad and need to be replaced.

Problem #11 Air conditioning

check for leaks in hoses usually evaporator leak can either recharge it every summer or replace evaporator


Problem #12 Power windows

If it does not operate at all no noises and neither switch operates the window, then u will need to replace the Motor (regulator)
I just put a bid on e-bay - $43 for the motor and regulator.
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I had the same problems with my windows and it was in the black ground wire in the drivers door it controls all the windows,I just spliced into it and grounded it to the door with a screw and short wire and that fixed the windows now they all work. hope this helps some one.

on a warm to hot day the power windows wont work ( none of them ) ! I had a problem like this in my 93 GC Laredo... the kick panel on the drivers side there are wires in there that go thru the door on the drivers side, i had to take off that kick panel and check for crimped or cut wires, i did find some and i haven't had the problem since. check that out, quick easy fix for us.

Problem #13 Alarm

you have 3 "door lock solenoids" at each key entry. As long as ONE of them work you can manually disable alarm. If they ALL wear out and you lose infrared remote, you're screwed!
Easiest is to purchase another remote(Ebay @$40) and program with below instructions:

1. Put key in ignition. Leave in off.
2. Open driver door, leave open throughout.
3. Manually push door lock button to "lock" position, not using electric
door locks, just manually push lock button.
4. Turn ignition to "run" position.
5. Within 20 seconds, hold lock button on remote till remote LED flashes
twice and electric door locks cycle on /off.
6. Within 20 seconds, push manual door lock back to "lock" position and
press "lock" button on 2nd remote till it flashes twice and locks cycle
again.
7. Turn ignition key to "off" position within 20 seconds.
Up to four transmitters may be programmed to each receiver.

Security Alarm System if factory should set with the RKE!

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If it doesn't work, you may have bad ecm module(like me)
to disable manually. use key on either front door or back tailgate as follows:
turn key twice quickly to left and then once to right to manually disable security system. This assumes any of the 3 door switch solenoids work(all mine wore out)
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An alarm set that can't be reset can cause car to stall after 20 minutes driving for anti-theft reasons. To reset alarm push both buttons at once.

Valet mode. 2 ways to get into or out of this is....With a door open, press number one on the remote, then number 2, then number one again. The other way is right after you shut the car off, press and release the valet button that's usually under your dash.

[cookie2]

Stalling:
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crank shaft position sensor
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My girlfriend's 97 grand Cherokee had the same problem. It turned out to be an electrical short. The problem was where the wires come out of the computer on the passenger side. These wires rubbed on the A/C lines and wore away the coating. We took it to four shops and no one could find this. Once we found the problem I put some caulk around the broke part. This kept the moisture out and made the computer stop flipping out.
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The way the IAC acts up is when you are driving and let off the gas it will stall or when you come to a stop. When you had it cleaned I think you meant The Iac Idle Air Control Motor they might not got all the carbon out or it could be bad.
My idle air control motor was replaced along with my pcv valve and my jeep has been working perfectly. No close calls, also there is no more jumping of my RPM needle. it doesn't idle as rough and i am happy......so far. If i do not respond to this post again then you will know what was done to fix my problem. good luck to everyone.
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There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sporadic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disable the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of car.
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Water in gas.
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The engine needs Air, Spark and Fuel to run.

There are a number of things to look at.
With that many miles;

Pull the dipstick out and check the oil to make sure it is not brown or has water in it.
This is to make sure your head gasket is not leaking coolant into the cylinders.

Check the Air Filter to make sure it is clean.

Next are the spark plugs. Make sure they are not over 65,000 miles old. Despite the great improvements in electronic ignition, spark plugs between 60,000 and 100,000 are pushing the limit.

And finally what I really think the problem is … look at the distributor cap and rotor.
I changed mine at 100,000 miles when the gas mileage started to drop. I was very surprised to see the extremely poor condition. I thought that the electronic ignition would not be as harsh as a points system but there was burning on the rotor tip and heavy gray carbon buildup on the distributor cap posts.

Another thing may be water in the fuel. I would not suspect the fuel filter since I have been disassembling fuel filters for 8 years now and I have yet to find anything in them. Not one speck of dirt. I now rarely change fuel filters unless there is a fuel pump replacement or the gas tank is suspected or is known to have water in it.


Air conditioning leaks inside car.
Condensation drain clogged. It originates below cowl inside engine compartment and drains under carpet pass side to outside. use compressed air blow out all debris in and below cowl. should clear.

Won't shift right:
My 96 GC LTD (108K miles) starts having a problem shifting (Auto Tranny) 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. (3rd to 4th is totally fine) It's even worse when the engine is cold. I kind of have to take my foot off from the gas to let the tranny shift to the next gear most of the time.

I had this same problem until I changed my thermostat. I haven't had the problem since. Living in Canada, every cold morning would be a nightmare to get to work.
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I found that accelerating revs up rpm but not speeding up when
engine is cold. After a few minutes of driving it becomes
normal and drives like new. - seals in torque converter bad
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I Have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I just purchased. I have a problem with the shifting of my tranny from 1st to 2nd to 3rd, but not all the time. It usually runs well, but sometimes, it decides to rev to 2800 rpm from 1st to 2nd, then 2200rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Then, it decides to shift well for the next little while. After a while, it does it again. Highway, it seems to run very well. Could this be a tranny problem, or what I heard from some people, a computer chip problem. Anyway any kind of help would be very much appreciated... thanks guys.
u have a 42/44RE transmission, the TCM (transmission control module) is located underneath the Driver's side of the dashboard, to the left of the Steering Column
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stuck in third gear
I had the same kind of problem with my 93 GC Limited. Try checking the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) fuses in the fuse box under the hood. It's also called a module. There is usually two of them, a 10 amp and a 15 amp (both mini fuses). In the '93 if your facing the front of the jeep they are third from left closest row to you. If one of these is blown the transmission will lock up in third gear to protect the tranny from damage. This is designed into the transmission control package at the factory. It's at least worth a look. Good luck and I hope this helps.


Smell coming from A/C vents

the smell is mold growing in your ac/heat ducts. what happens is when you have the ac on the evaporator removes moisture from the air before it enters your vehicle, and the water drains outside, that is when you are parked after you have had the ac on your jeep will drip water. that drain is plugged witch wont allow the water to exit your vehicle and it is just sitting in your ducts growing mold. you will have to open up the ducts, not sue where n your vehicle, and blow out that drain.

The dealer has a fix for this.
Part Number 4897625AB
*Coating-COOFB-1
$46.25

Or you can go down to your local Heating & Air Conditioning Supply house and purchase ‘Evaporator Cleaner', for about $10/gallon and it is diluted 3:1.

The procedure for both is to;

Run the vehicle with the heat on max, fan on High for 5-10 minutes.
This is to remove the moisture from the inside air supply box.

Next remove the access panel next to the fan motor.
Turn the fan back on to High and spray the evaporator.
The engine may or may not be running for the application.

The Mopar spray can has a very long nozzle like the short one that comes on a can of WD40.
The Supply House cleaner will need to be applied with a sprayer, like a pump up garden sprayer.

The Mopar spray will not harm the interior of the vehicle but the Supply House liquid must be watched. It to will not harm Leather or Cloth but I do not recommend spraying until a mist is coming out of the vents and it my drip from the panel opening you are spraying into.

Have towels ready to catch any liquid that may run out.
The Mopar spray is a vapor and will not run out onto the carpet.
Both are not harmful to you or the environment.


Cleaning the Throttle

Your jeep has a throttle body assembly. There is a rubber air tube which runs from the big black air cleaner box so you can locate it very easy. Loosen the screw and remove the tube from the throttle body.
It will reveal a metal round hole. Look down it and there is a metal door which you can move with your finger by pushing it.
If this hole and behind the door are very dirty (black) buy some carb cleaner and get an old tooth brush. Spray the cleaner down the round metal hole while holding the door open. Take the tooth brush and clean the entire area. Do it more than once if needed. Then take the cleaner again and spray off the excess.
Reinstall the rubber tube and tighten the screw.

There is a motor inside this metal assembly. When it gets very dirty it will cause your vehicle to die or hesitate on acceleration. This motor is called a throttle position sensor and DOES NOT move like it should if too dirty.

Changing differential oil

Synthetic differential oil is about 8 bucks a qt going to need 2 plus .5 hour labor to be generous.

I do my own. I use a small pump that I bought for the lower unit on my outboard motor. It screws right on to the dif oil container and I just pump it in with out the mess of trying to pour it in or use a suction gun.

Need some silicone (RTV) - 1/8" bead around the cover and tighten the bolts to 25 ftlb torqu

I was at the Jeep "stealership" to buy synthetic differential fluid along with the limited slip additive, and asked how they handle this type of switch. I was advised to use brake cleaner and wipe everything clean before re-assembly (especially at the bottom of the case).
I followed these instructions and everything went very smoothly, except refilling the rear differential which was difficult because of the fuel tank placement in front of the differntial cover. I used a section of 1/2" clear hose attached to the end of the gear oil bottle with a small hose clamp to squeeze the fluid in there.

hat's interesting, I read on www.getahelmet.com that you could also use Kerosene to clean inside the Differential housing. The article also mentioned using brake or carburetor cleaner, but states that Kerosene is less harsh! The article goes on to say that Kerosene when used to degrease the gears, acts like a lubricant & will not break down the rubber seals like solvents do.

My only question now is about the T-Case. When switching to Synthetic is it a big job to remove the T-Case cover, or is it just like removing the differential covers?

Check Engine Light

How to test codes for 95 and less with self diagnaotics. Turn the key from off to on 3 times (not to start!!!) leave the key in the on position , wait a sec or 2, the check engine light will flash, this is a code. The light will flash 1-9 times pause for a sec and flash again 1-9 times, this gives you a 2 digit code. after the first code is done it will pause for a longer time and flash another code if there is more than one problem. If you only get 55 nothing is wrong, if you get other codes then 55 singles the end of the diagnostic. 12 is the code for the battery being disconnected within the past 50 cycles. Turn the key off when finished. Repeat if you didn't get codes.

[cookie2]

The item above describing how to reprogam you remote key entry device does not work. The only place to get the RKE programmed for your car is at a dealership.

[fredjacksonsan]

Great information, thanks cookie....

[PrestonP]

I see plenty of great advice for diagnosing a stalling vehicle. But, I don't really know where to start checking. So, I'll lay out my stalling problems...
1. Over the past 8 months my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee has lost RPM's in the middle of car trips. It would zero out for a second and then kick back in. The car would jerk, but would carry on.
2. I recently changed the computer and it solved a lot of starting/alarm problems that were hounding me. But, whether related or not, my stalling problems have grown.
3. Now, in the middle of driving, I have had the vehicle's RPM's zero out and it either a) coasts a bit before kicking in again on its own; or b) It stalls altogether, I lose power, etc., and have to pull over in order to let it rest and start up again.

The strange randomness of the stalls have caused me to once again probe all of your mechanical minds. (PS, thanks to all who contributed to my computer problems. You are all so insightful - where did you all learn so much about Jeeps?!?)

Thanks again,
PrestonP

[teemsta]

my 94 jgcl is shuttering while i drive, it doesnt really start right away but when it does it seems like its not getting all the gas it needs like a clogged fuel filter. its noticable but tollerable. i have also noticed my volt gauge acting up. when i first start trick its at almost 14 then later it goes gown to about 13 and if i have ac on its down to about 12 and sometimes close to red line,especially when i put it in reverse the gauge drops. my question is if i take it to a garage will they find the problem easily by putting it on a computer or will they due process of ellimnation wich im sure will cost $$$$. thanx for your help.

[dksob81]

Originally Posted by PrestonP

I see plenty of great advice for diagnosing a stalling vehicle. But, I don't really know where to start checking. So, I'll lay out my stalling problems...
1. Over the past 8 months my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee has lost RPM's in the middle of car trips. It would zero out for a second and then kick back in. The car would jerk, but would carry on.
2. I recently changed the computer and it solved a lot of starting/alarm problems that were hounding me. But, whether related or not, my stalling problems have grown.
3. Now, in the middle of driving, I have had the vehicle's RPM's zero out and it either a) coasts a bit before kicking in again on its own; or b) It stalls altogether, I lose power, etc., and have to pull over in order to let it rest and start up again.

The strange randomness of the stalls have caused me to once again probe all of your mechanical minds. (PS, thanks to all who contributed to my computer problems. You are all so insightful - where did you all learn so much about Jeeps?!?)

Thanks again,
PrestonP

bad CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

[dksob81]

Originally Posted by teemsta

my 94 jgcl is shuttering while i drive, it doesnt really start right away but when it does it seems like its not getting all the gas it needs like a clogged fuel filter. its noticable but tollerable. i have also noticed my volt gauge acting up. when i first start trick its at almost 14 then later it goes gown to about 13 and if i have ac on its down to about 12 and sometimes close to red line,especially when i put it in reverse the gauge drops. my question is if i take it to a garage will they find the problem easily by putting it on a computer or will they due process of ellimnation wich im sure will cost $$$$. thanx for your help.

Does the heck engine light come on?

[dksob81]

Originally Posted by cookie2

The item above describing how to reprogam you remote key entry device does not work. The only place to get the RKE programmed for your car is at a dealership.

the above reprograming instructions are for pre 96 ZJ's, they should work on 93-95 ZJ's. after that you must take it to the stealership and have the reprogram it.

[teemsta]

no, check engine light does not come on

[dksob81]

Originally Posted by teemsta

no, check engine light does not come on

It could be a clogged fuel filter or the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) going bad.

[mfh11]

Your tip on the ground wire in the door fixed my power window problem!!!

Thank you very much.

[cookie2]

Had intermittent problem in shifting out of first gear after car heated up adding a synthetic additive to the transmission fluid fixed the problem, just changing the transmission oil didn't work. I think the governor valve was sticking.

[legalfee]

Great thread. Just to add my .02 I have all the Jeep technical service bulletins and recalls on my web page. This has most of the 'gotchas'.

http://home.sc.rr.com/janet

[protozee]

The jeep shake or shudder, misfire may occur when the vehicle is operated between 50 - 70 MPH

I tried 2 jeep dealers and they could not fix this, one said it was the coil, replaced it no help, and tune up, injectors cleaned too no help. The other on said it was the torque converter and pump it was under warranty, no help. So I think they just want to sell you something or they don’t know any more then we do, or maybe they throw the service bulletins away. So I did some research on the internet and this is what I found the trouble. So far
I have paid a lot of money at the dealers.

Late closure of an exhaust valve may be the result of no valve rotation and associated build up of carbon on the exhaust valve stem.

So I bought a 16 oz. bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, put half in the gas tank and the other half in the oil. No more jeep shake or shudder or misfires.

By the way the $500 at the dealer for decarburizing



4.0L MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE
Date: 08/01/03
Model Year(s): 1999-2004

Description: NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 4.0L ENGINE. This bulletin involves inspection of all engine exhaust valves and a decarbonizing procedure if necessary.

Details: The customer may experience an incident of engine misfire during certain vehicle operating conditions. The misfire may occur when the vehicle is operated between 50 - 70 MPH and under light loading conditions, e.g. slight uphill road grades. This condition may occur at all ambient conditions, but is more noticeable when ambient conditions are less than 0 C (32 F).

If the vehicle is equipped with On-Board Diagnostic (OBD), a MIL illumination may also have occurred due to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire. Various single cylinder misfire DTC?s may also be present. If the frequency of misfire is high the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may place the engine in ?Limp-In? mode.

The misfire condition may be caused by one or more engine exhaust valves that are slow to close. Late closure of an exhaust valve may be the result of no valve rotation and associated build up of carbon on the exhaust valve stem.

This condition may occur when the engine is not allowed to run at engine RPM?s that are greater than 3,200 RPM. At 3,200 RPM or higher the engine exhaust valves will rotate if not impeded by high carbon deposits. Low engine RPM?s and high carbon deposits are associated with short trip driving where the vehicle engine is not allowed to fully warm to normal engine operating temperatures. Cold ambient temperatures will increase engine warm-up time and add to the opportunity of carbon deposit build-up on the stem of the engine exhaust valve.