1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

[hoff316]

Very helpful post. My wiring harness to the resistor was corroded and the resistor was shot. This also fried the blower relay. I replaced the resistor, wiring plug harness and swapped the relay temporarily with the high beams relay, I will buy another relay when I get to O'reillys later. Success, the blower works, my wife is off my case now, this post saved me $$$. Great job Headless Horseman, I liked the digital pictures.

[kornkid4032]

Originally Posted by hoff316

Very helpful post. My wiring harness to the resistor was corroded and the resistor was shot. This also fried the blower relay. I replaced the resistor, wiring plug harness and swapped the relay temporarily with the high beams relay, I will buy another relay when I get to O'reillys later. Success, the blower works, my wife is off my case now, this post saved me $$$. Great job Headless Horseman, I liked the digital pictures.

I was wondering where I could get the wiring harness from... I couldn't find it at rockauto.com.....

Also, that part# RU93 that was mentioned for the resistor, does that part work for the 95 models?

[hoff316]

I could only find the wiring harness from the Dealership Mopar. Not sure about 1995 models since mine is a 1998.

[lesam1]

97 T&C - - I have read several post about climate control blower working only on HIGH, but mine will work normally (on any setting) and then just stop blowing altogether. It may take a few mintues or days and it will start working again. You never know when it is going to happen. What should I try replacing first? Is this the same problem as those who's blower works on high only or something different?

Any help is greatly appreciated - especially with the weather getting hot!!!

p.s. I posted this in the general question area also.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by lesam1

97 T&C - - I have read several post about climate control blower working only on HIGH, but mine will work normally (on any setting) and then just stop blowing altogether. It may take a few mintues or days and it will start working again. You never know when it is going to happen. What should I try replacing first? Is this the same problem as those who's blower works on high only or something different?

Any help is greatly appreciated - especially with the weather getting hot!!!

p.s. I posted this in the general question area also.

I would start with the Blower Motor RELAY in your case. Sometimes, the contacts inside this relay can become so pitted, burned or encrusted with crud that the circuit will not provide full power to the Blower Motor. When it gets really bad (and it always does, eventually, get really bad with age), I can easily imagine that this relay might not provide any power at all. My experience has been that before a total relay failure, intermittant failures come first, just like the situation you described.

Hoff316 explained that he found an identical relay (for high beam lights) that he used to identify a broken relay. Depending on your model year, you may be able to do the same thing or for less than $20 just go ahead and replace the relay... your '97 is probably due for a replacement anyway.

[icerabbit]

I am happy I found this thread, since I experience the problem fan a/c and recirc only work on high.

I would like to replace the resistor myself, but am having a bit of a tough time removing it.

I tried to unplug the wire, holding down the little clip & pulling, but it is like glued in there. Even a careful pry around with a flat screwdriver between the male & female part of the connector doesn't seem to help. I was getting very worried as the female part that sits in the car frame / firewall was getting looser.

In the photos, it appears that the big bulky plastic assembly - which obstructs easy access - is removed. Is this required? And how is it done.

To remove the resistor with the wires still plugged in I gather I:
A) Disconnect the battery wires?
Or would removing the 40A and/or some other fuse to the trick?

B) then carefully pry something between the light colored part and the wall to try to push down one part of the clamp and then tilt the connector bit out.

Thanks for your help.

[icerabbit]

PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by icerabbit

PS: This was linked from the allpar minivan forum

Like the instructions say... remove the negative battery cable from the battery BEFORE you do anything. Yes, getting the Resistor Block out of the firewall is a bear... you just have to keep working at it... the reason it's getting looser is because the metal clips that hold it in the firewall are beginning to bend... this is normal.

You didn't mention what year and model you have, so I cannot suggest much more than this.

Good Luck!

[Nik73]

I Have a 2001 D GC Sport with problem #1 and my resistor block is behind the glove box in plastic housing for the blower and ducting. I pulled it out and it looked brand new and no corrosion could it still be bad?????

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by Nik73

I Have a 2001 D GC Sport with problem #1 and my resistor block is behind the glove box in plastic housing for the blower and ducting. I pulled it out and it looked brand new and no corrosion could it still be bad?????

If the connector to the Resistor Block is not melted or burned and your blower is blowing air at high speed only, then yes, I would say your Resistor Block is Bad, no matter what it looks like.

[dreams11]

I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addresed here. I have a 2000 grand voyager se with 130,000 miles. The blower has suddenly stopped working alltogether. The fuse was bad so I replaced but that just blew again.

I replaced it again and payed better attention to what happens, the fuse was fine untill i turned the blower switch on (just the switch the fan didn't actually work) the ac light didn't go on untill i turned up the fan to max but still didn't start the blower fan but at this point the fuse started to glow red so i switched the fan control to off to not fry the fuse.

what could be causing the fuse to keep blowing and the fan not to work even before the fuse blows?

Thanks

scott

[egc519mzl]

I also have a problem with fan two days ago. It would only run on high. Reading upon this thread confirms my suspicion that it is the resistor.
dreams11, the reason why fuse would fail is because it has too much currect going through the line than the fuse could handle. Thus, short circuit is eminent. I don't know how difficult but I would start by disconnecting the blower and turning on the fan. Check if current goes thru the fuse (you have to remove the fuse and insert the tester). If you don't see a current, there is probably a short in the blower.

[eckelbee]

We have a 2001 Grand Sport flex fuel engine with the mentioned blower problems. The front fan operates normal but the aft only worked in high, now it doesnt work altogether.

I took apart the area in the back passenger compartment and noted 12 volts at the blower and thought the fan was inop. I then pulled it out and applied 12 volts from the battery to the fan leads and the fan operates normal.

Does the same resitor block behind the glove box control both front and aft fans? Is there another resistor block that I should be looking for in the aft compartment? Also in my T/S, I noted what I was hoping to be the aft resistor block turned out to be a solid state looking device once removed. When the plug was removed from this device, power was also removed from the blower fan plug and vise versa.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by dreams11

I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addresed here. I have a 2000 grand voyager se with 130,000 miles. The blower has suddenly stopped working alltogether. The fuse was bad so I replaced but that just blew again.

I replaced it again and payed better attention to what happens, the fuse was fine untill i turned the blower switch on (just the switch the fan didn't actually work) the ac light didn't go on untill i turned up the fan to max but still didn't start the blower fan but at this point the fuse started to glow red so i switched the fan control to off to not fry the fuse.

what could be causing the fuse to keep blowing and the fan not to work even before the fuse blows?

Thanks

scott

It sounds like there's 1.) a short in the switch (which I doubt), 2.) a bad Blower Motor and/or 3.) a bad Blower Motor Relay.

I'm sure there are people on this forum that might tell you to replace them one at a time, but my thinking is that the motor and relay should be replaced as a pair.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by eckelbee

We have a 2001 Grand Sport flex fuel engine with the mentioned blower problems. The front fan operates normal but the aft only worked in high, now it doesnt work altogether.

I took apart the area in the back passenger compartment and noted 12 volts at the blower and thought the fan was inop. I then pulled it out and applied 12 volts from the battery to the fan leads and the fan operates normal.

Does the same resitor block behind the glove box control both front and aft fans? Is there another resistor block that I should be looking for in the aft compartment? Also in my T/S, I noted what I was hoping to be the aft resistor block turned out to be a solid state looking device once removed. When the plug was removed from this device, power was also removed from the blower fan plug and vise versa.

The Resistor Block described in this thread operates the forward Blower Motor ONLY. I have no idea how the aft circuit is set up because I've never needed to fix it. I do not know if Chrysler uses a Resistor Block for the aft blower... anyone?