those damn SRT-4's

[carrrnuttt]

Originally Posted by 94tegRS

have you run the SER since you boosted it?

LOL...I wish...

I was just illustrating above that his 22,000-dollar figure for his 12-second Civic is NOT anywhere cheap.

No boost yet, man. As cheap as it may be, I'm pretty poor until after I graduate college next May. When I get it done though, AF will be the first to know.

BTW, $21,000 gets you this: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...83#post1253683

[94tegRS]

oh, well, yeah Id like one of them neons, not my favorite looking cars but I dont think they are too bad, but with that much power stock, Id go for one. but I am HOPEFULLY getting this 94 teg I found with the 99 front end conversion, ITR lip and brand new black paint job and GSR rims, lowered, and a boosted B20, I havent gotten to talk to the guy but the answering machine is a shop called r and r racing down in southern cali so I hope it will all be installed cleanly/tuned properly.

[whtteg]

Originally Posted by CivicEXRider

Hmm, let's see how much it takes to make a civic a nice street burner.
Welp, this is an estimate on what I've spent so far. So much for my savings on a 2003 cobra. Just didn't have the money to throw out 35k at one time on a car. This one is paid for! It's all mine and not the banks.

1998 civic EX 5 speed with 87k mile. $6000 Good deal on it.
Wings west body kit. $800
Paint and body work $1000
Edelbrock Turbo Kit $3100
Spec stage 3 clutch $310
Firdanza flywheel $275
Wheels/tires $900 Chromes hehe dare to be different
Tint $140
Guage pod with A/F guage, Oil pressure$150
Custom instrument cluster $80
Apexi World sport exhaust $400
Water pump, tensioner, timing belt $80 Off ebay
Zex dry N20 kit with purge kit $550
Optimum battery $100
Nology spark plug wires $120
AEM fuel rail,FPR, and filter $250-300 I forget
Unorthodox pully set $275
Strut bar $125
Tein Super sport suspension kit $900
Walboro 255lph fuel pump $100
Powerstop slotted rotors $130
AEM HP brake pads $50
CK headlamp/ tail lamps $500
damn extra bulbs $35
Alpine 9815 Head unit $400 Insurance too.
Alpine R 6 1/2 front 6X9 rear $400 Insurance
Cometic Head gasket $120
ARP headstuds $110

Few other things like mobile one oil and so forth but this comes out to $17,400.

So, for 17.5k I purchased a nice reliable little street setup that gets 30mpg when I drive normal and 26 when I don't. It's nothing that will run 10's at the drag strip but it's just a fun car to drive around. Maybe another 5 grand into the motor and some slicks then it'll hold it's own at the drag strip So for 22k I could have an easy 12 second car.

Better gas mileage
Much much cheaper insurance
cheaper property tax.
That's why I built up a civic
.

OK let me get this right, you are running a DRY Zex nitrous kit on a boosted car? WTF is wrong with you? Do you really have that or are you b.sing alittle? B/c dry nitrous kits and turbos don't mix at all!

[Miataracer]

did anyone else read the story about the people that rented a neon from a car rental place then rigged it with a temporary nitrous kit? they had a big bottle strapped into the back seatbelt and ran the nozzle right into the air box, the button to hit for the nitrous was the horn basically they rented the car, rigged it up and took it to the drag strip... they kept running higher and higher amounts of nitrous until it finally blew up... somewhere in the 9 second quarter mile range. then they took the nitrous off and took it back to the rental place and acted like they didn't know what happened

if anyone knows the link to the webpage that write up is on I would love to have it again!!!

[Miataracer]

found it!!! I was way off on the 9 seconds though... sorry!

here is the link

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/articles/neon/

Give it a read... lol

[94tegRS]

sounds kinda fishy but would be funy as hell to be there when they returned it(if you knew what was going on when you saw it) but would a neon even make it 1/4 of a mile ONCE with the size of a shot it would take to hit 9's

[CivicEXRider]

The dry nitros kit works extremely well with the Edelbrock turbo setup. Why is that? Because how that turbo kit works. Dry kits use your stock FPR to raise the amount of fuel shooting in with the N2O. The Edelbrock doesn't touch the stock fpr system. It only controls the secondary injectors when the Elink contoller starts to read boost. Therefore, you'll get the right amount of fuel corresponding to the shot of N2O your using. A 25 shot really is great with the turbo application. No such thing as lagging off the line.

[Creagach]

Originally Posted by carrrnuttt

How's this:

1992 Sentra SE-R: 1,800 dollars (what mine cost...some have been found on EBay for 1,000)

SR20DE: came with car

Stamped-steel turbo rods: came with car

SR20DET crank (turbo app): came with car

Close-ratio five speed with LSD: came with car

SR20DET turbo manifold with the stock T28 that came with it: 500 dollars (my cost)

Supporting mods (fuel, engine management, etc.): 1,000 dollars

Ability to hold 14psi reliably on a daily basis: came with car

Sleeper status: came with car

12's-13's in a car you spent less than 3,000 dollars on: PRICELESS

to boost a sr20 it's closer to 2,500 to turbo, 3,000 to turbo it perfectly (if you wanted higher than stock boost)
jwt ecu
act clutch
370 cc injectors
piping for intercooler
intercooler
boost management system
misc. oil supply parts
bov, i know i'm forgetting some other stuff.
no way you get into the 12's without 3-4 grand into the car
cheap way for an se-r to boost would be a redtop bbdet transplant with stock tmic, and jwt ecu. still about 2300-2500, but it's plug and play, instead of having to piece together a kit for the usdm sr20de.

[whtteg]

Originally Posted by CivicEXRider

The dry nitros kit works extremely well with the Edelbrock turbo setup. Why is that? Because how that turbo kit works. Dry kits use your stock FPR to raise the amount of fuel shooting in with the N2O. The Edelbrock doesn't touch the stock fpr system. It only controls the secondary injectors when the Elink contoller starts to read boost. Therefore, you'll get the right amount of fuel corresponding to the shot of N2O your using. A 25 shot really is great with the turbo application. No such thing as lagging off the line.

Are you using it under boost or just to spool the turbo? And I know how dry nitrous kits work, I ve been around nitrous for a long time now. I fyou are using it under boost then you can kiss the motor good bye soon!

[carrrnuttt]

Originally Posted by Creagach

to boost a sr20 it's closer to 2,500 to turbo, 3,000 to turbo it perfectly (if you wanted higher than stock boost)
jwt ecu
act clutch
370 cc injectors
piping for intercooler
intercooler
boost management system
misc. oil supply parts
bov, i know i'm forgetting some other stuff.
no way you get into the 12's without 3-4 grand into the car
cheap way for an se-r to boost would be a redtop bbdet transplant with stock tmic, and jwt ecu. still about 2300-2500, but it's plug and play, instead of having to piece together a kit for the usdm sr20de.

My statement is sort of an exaggeration but isn't. I was trying to illustrate the point that his 22,000-dollar Civic is NOT a performance bargain, by any means.

I say it's not an exaggeration, because I have the advantage of being able to purchase things at shop/wholesale price, directly from Japan. My friend's shop supplies all the other local small shops with JDM engines, parts, and even whole cars. I will be paying close to those prices when I have that extra cash to start the project, although, instead of just turbo-charging the stock motor...like I've said before...there is still that red-topped GTi-R motor waiting for me for a mere 1,400-dollars (not including what my friend will charge me for installing it, of course).

[Creagach]

Originally Posted by carrrnuttt

My statement is sort of an exaggeration but isn't. I was trying to illustrate the point that his 22,000-dollar Civic is NOT a performance bargain, by any means.

I say it's not an exaggeration, because I have the advantage of being able to purchase things at shop/wholesale price, directly from Japan. My friend's shop supplies all the other local small shops with JDM engines, parts, and even whole cars. I will be paying close to those prices when I have that extra cash to start the project, although, instead of just turbo-charging the stock motor...like I've said before...there is still that red-topped GTi-R motor waiting for me for a mere 1,400-dollars (not including what my friend will charge me for installing it, of course).

yeah 22,000 is alot of money, i haven't even spent half of that, and at the risk of sounding like an asshole if i DID put 22 grand in my car i'd be pullin some 10 second slips or better.

[CivicEXRider]

Notice my buddys new SRT-4 next to my black civic. This is on the way back from Nopi. He normally runs mid 14's in the 1/4 and no his isn't faster than mine. Also, mine is actually cheaper at 17k; plus it's not a dodge. I had a 91 Daytona ES with 20k miles and it blew the head gasket 3 times in 1 vacation trip. After I got to the destination and on the 4th blown head gasket, Dodge finally replaced both heads on the car. Same trip my altenator goes out and it cost 380 bucks for a new one. That was my first and last Dodge.




http://www.cardomain.com/id/98civicrider

[Miataracer]

as a side note, your car looks a million times better than the SRT-4

I'm just not feelin the style on those things

[94tegRS]

If the Elink monitors boost and adds extra fuel, it still wouldnt work for N2O would it, because when you spray, it isnt read as boost at all is it?

[akina_speedstars]

Originally Posted by mdorty

Actually, for stock 4 cylinders, Neons are pretty quick. My first car was a '95 Dodge Neon, and I raced my friend's '91 Honda Prelude (non v-tec), it was a stick, mine an automatic, and I won. I also raced my friend's Ford Contour (it was an automatic), beat that, and my friend's '90 Mustang (4 cylinder, and a stick, but still a win. I also raced my friends 350 Chevy (not sure what model or anything, but it's automatic), we raced from a 20 punch, and I was keeping up with him, on his bumper the whole time until we slowed down at about 90 or 95. Oh, and I raced my friend's '00 Ford ZX2, also an automatic, and beat him. And BTW, all of these cars were stock, except for my friend's 350 chevy, he had an aftermarket exhaust (dual exhaust).

Well, I've been in a stock 4-cyl Neon. The power-to-weight ratio is better than VW Golf and Jetta III GLs and they cost less. However, the first generation Neons has nasty problems. I was in a modified second generation Neon and it was pretty quick with two people in the car compared to other 4 cyl cars. I don't like the appearance of the headlights... Dodge's idea of making a happy looking car.