Wip - bmw z3

[wolvyreen]

Ok, I have not yet been able to do the wash on the underside of the chassis but I have been busy with floor mats and polishing the body.

I bought some contact velour paper for the mats and as you can see below, this was my attempt to make realistic floor mats :P For a noob, I think I did ok.





I managed to make a stencil of the Z3 logo as is shown on the original floor mats of the car.



BIG problem here that I desperately need help with. I was trying to fix a hair that got caught under the clear paint and sanded a little too much through the clear and ... well,...I'm not to sure how deep I sanded whether it went through to the primer. So I'm hoping someone can give me a suggestion on how to fix this.


After some polish. No waxing has been done yet. Those spray nozzles will be painted black. The orangle peel that you see in this photo is actuall the silver heat shield that surrounds the bulb in the light.

[rallymaster]

Wow !! That's shine !!
I love the floor mats too, easier than flocking

[ales]

The floor mats have worked out really well.

As for the paint issue, while you haven't actually rubbed through to the primer, you have rubbed through the clear and some of the paint. If I had to correct that I'd mask off the rest of the car along the trunk panel lines, repaint the affected area (making sure you don't get paint on the BMW badge) and re-clear the whole trunk.

[wolvyreen]

Ok, big problems Sadly, the whole process of masking off and respraying, has gone and messed the whole body up. The trunk is now darker than the rest of the car and I fear that I am going to now have to strip down and redo.

[wolvyreen]

Yh well I have learned hard lessons through this build but I am not giving up on this hobby just yet!
I have now officially screwed the body up royally! I'm honestly just sitting here sighing :P and wanting to cry! hehe

I have decided to strip it down and start again cause this time after I applied the clear, a lot of the clear started to run cause I am a noob and a boob! :P
I am now going to try and obtain a new sheet of decals for this build!

Go easy on me. Its my first official build :P

[MPWR]

This time, be careful what you strip in!! No brake fluid.

Isopropyl alcohol/medical spirits is the best, safest thing to strip Tamiya lacquers in. It will nicely clean the paint and primer off down to the plastic.

[wolvyreen]

Thanks MPWR

Although, I'm quite embarressed that I am having to strip down another model :P But if you were sitting here looking at it like I was, you would strip it down too....lol

Tell me, when stripping it in isopropyl, do you just dip it in the isopropyl and leave it there for a couple of hours? or must you rub it off?

[MPWR]

Best to dip it for a few hours in a sealed container. After the paint and clearcoat are gone, the last bits of residual primer sometimes need to be wiped out of corners and panel lines, but for the most part everything should simply soak off.

These kinds of sanding errors once they happen are virtually impossible to fix. When it happened, you maybe could have covered it with a scratchbuild luggage rack or the like- but repainting it to match surrounding paint (especially with a metallic paint) is almost guaranteed to frustrate.

[wolvyreen]

Thanks When I receive the new decals, i wil do that

[wolvyreen]

Originally Posted by MPWR

This time, be careful what you strip in!! No brake fluid.

Isopropyl alcohol/medical spirits is the best, safest thing to strip Tamiya lacquers in. It will nicely clean the paint and primer off down to the plastic.

Hi MPWR,

Well, I have now had the model in ISOPROPYL Alcohol for about 24Hours and it has not stripped down the paint. Of course it has definitely tried hard but rubbing it does not remove it easily. I would probably have to use some sort of abrasive sponge to remove it.

But peeling off it is not!

Any other ideas?



Wolvy

[MPWR]

What strength isopropyl are you using (and I hope that container has a lid)? The weaker concentrations (less than 70% or so) will often require some scrubbing with an old toothbrush or the like. Wear protective eye cover as you do it. Higher concentrations (91% or even 99%) usually don't take much scrubbing. Often the easiest way (but not necessarily the quickest way) is to soak the body for a while, scrub it gently for a bit, and then repeat- to let the alcohol work on the successive layers of paint/primer. If you're impatient, you can scrub vigorously with the toothbrush and occasionally dip the body as you go. This can clean the body relatively quickly (one session), but it can take some working at it.

[Uninen]

Try some oven (or grill) cleaner, in Finland I use Fairy Power Spray, it's called another name in Britain (which of course I don't remember). They strip the paint fairly easy, and wont melt the plastic down. Just spray it on and leave it be for a week. Then scrub it with a soft brush under running water. Works every time for me. Another useful substance is drain (Home Plummer) opener, but You have to be careful with it since it will irritate skin when exposed (it's corroding also) so rubber gloves come in handy. Needs also a few days and some scrubbing with soft brush.

[wolvyreen]

Originally Posted by MPWR

What strength isopropyl are you using (and I hope that container has a lid)?

yes it has a lid I'm aint stupid... lol If I wasn't a 30yr old guy, I would also worry

I have 91% strength. So I thought it would do the job. I did exactly as you said. rub it gently off in succession. but no luck. its like it has stopped working :P

Originally Posted by Uninen

Try some oven (or grill) cleaner, in Finland I use Fairy Power Spray, it's called another name in Britain (which of course I don't remember).

I have Mr Muscle? Will that work?

[wolvyreen]

Soooo....any ideas whether Mr Muscle will work?

[wolvyreen]

awww.come on noone? so I'm on my own here?