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  #16  
Old 03-09-2003, 09:00 PM
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people put there batterys in the back for a few reasons

for weight balance, so its not in the way of the intake, honda hood are really easy to pop from the front of the car making the alarm useless (unless u have a back up batt) cause all a thief would have to do is disconnect the battery im sure there is more reasons why
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Old 03-10-2003, 07:00 AM
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Another reason is the battery posts can touch the intake tube if you have a metal one and cause an engine fire. But yeah the battery is also harder to get to if it's inside the car with the doors locked. If you hooked your alarm up inside the car and not in the engine it would be better.
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  #18  
Old 03-10-2003, 10:00 AM
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FourthGenHatch... What kind of battery do you have? I have some Wal-Mart battery and was going to relocate it to my hatch. My dad said that I should not do that unless I have a gel battery because a regular car battery puts off toxic fumes and kinda boils while the car is running. This is not cool if you have a hatchback cuz the fuems will excape into your car and would not be good for you at all. Sedan people, it probly wont be as bad I guess. What kind of gel batterys are good to use? I am going to relocate my battery, but want to know what (Gel) batterys are good? Thanx.
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Old 03-10-2003, 10:12 AM
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I think its a waste of time ... and I have no problems with my intake contacting my battery.
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Old 03-10-2003, 10:33 AM
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I agree that it is a waste of time. The amount of money and time spent on the 0g or 4g wire and running it all is much more than adding a back up batt for your alarm. Not to mention the hazards of having a wet cell battery in the interior of your car, it’s under the hood for a reason. The only reason I would see putting a batt in the trunk would be 1. No room under the hood and 2. Massive sound system. In both cases I would completely inclose the batt somehow.

On another note I was wandering why you went with using a circuit breaker?
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Old 03-10-2003, 10:50 AM
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One of the reasons if you would have read all the replies, for moving the battery to the rear of the car, is to help the weight ratio. I still haven't fully figured this out, because I don't think the battery weighs that much, but I have read enough statements saying that it helps, that i believe it.
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  #22  
Old 03-10-2003, 03:18 PM
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Well I'm starting work on the same mod when my car gets back from the body shop. I've already got everything I need except for the 100A circuit breaker.

Does anyone know what the height of the Optima yellow top battery is?

Oh, also, thanks for the how-to, one question I have though is instead of removing that rubber grommet from the fire-wall, shouldn't you have just punched a hole through the grommet? I'd just be afraid that the metal edges around the hole would cut into the 2AWG wire insulation and it would short out...
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Old 03-10-2003, 07:04 PM
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First of all if any of you read the How-To it said I used a SEALED OPTIMA BATTERY so I have no hazzardous wetcell in my trunk. I didn't move it for security, I did it for weight distribution. Stock battery weighs about 30lbs, and thats pretty heavy. The Optima was 40lbs! But it's more powerful so not a big deal. I instantly noticed the weight difference. The ass of the car you can feel the weight in it, and I now find it pretty easy to rotate the back where before it wouldn't at all.

The circuit breaker is so that since the battery is inside your car, should the positive and negative connections somehow touch they won't send a shockwave through the car and kill you or make your gas tank explode or something. It's a safety feature.
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2003, 07:03 AM
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Good call on the Optima. I’m gonna have to add another batt to my car soon but not sure if I’m gonna be able to put it back there. As for the circuit breaker question, I’ve seen circuit breakers go bad before. I’ve had experience with them freezing in which case they stay in a closed position. This is bad due to you never know it’s gone defective or bad till you’ve already started a fire. I personaly will be using a 200 amp “wafer” fuse do to me having to upgrade to a 160+ alternator. Just some thoughts.
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  #25  
Old 03-11-2003, 04:25 PM
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is that all the battery is hooked up to, the ecu and starter...didn't know that.
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2003, 07:05 PM
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Yup, the neg is hooked to just the body then the tranny, pos to the ECU and starter. It was really easy. After doing this I noticed my electronics are much more powerful. Like the interior lights are much brighter, keyless works from farther away, remote start fires up like instantly.
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-Stock hood (red) $30
-Stock Rear Spoiler (red) $30
-Stock mirrors $30/both
-Stock side front and rear side glass $30/piece
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2003, 09:21 PM
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The reason you place the battery over your passenger side rear wheel is traction. The torque produced by your engine tries to lift this wheel on a RWD. On a FWD you would want as much weight as possible on the front wheels, no?
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2003, 10:00 PM
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On a FWD car, more weight up front=understeer, with moving the battery in the back, it trys and evens up the weight distribution so it causes less understeer and more oversteer.
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