Testors Aztec Vs. Iwata or Badger?

[lotus123]

Just for interest, looking at Niclas' lower picture (very useful post Niclas!) the problem areas are as follows:
1. The "blue tube" can have a small crack along its length - this will cause your hissing noise. Mine did this, but I fixed it by tightly wrapping electrical tape around it to seal the crack. It probably won't last, but I'm hoping to get a replacement tube from the importer before it fails again. And don't hesitate to "crack" the casing open if you don't have luck with the 'lifetime" warranty on the unit.
2. The clear tube goes into a black rubber tube which is "pinched" by the trigger mechanism, to control airflow. The pinch mechanism caused my rubber tube to split (also caused hissing noise), and a replacement part was needed (luckily free on warranty). The tube also tends to stay permanently pinched after a while, and taking it out and resiting it 90 degrees to original axis usually frees airflow again.
3. The mechanism that Niclas inventively fixed breaks because the unit gets glued up with dried paint (especially lacquers), and the extra bit of force on the yoke (that's the bit he fixed) causes it to break off. The only way to prevent that from happening is to break the unit down (that includes splitting the casing) when it gets a bit tight, and soak it in Testor's Dried Paint Solvent overnight to clean it thoroughly.
4. The Aztek needle/nozzle units are fairly easy to clean but I noticed that poor spraying was caused by the opening having become very much bigger over time. I noticed that when comparing it to a new unit I recently bought.

Overall, I would not buy an Aztek again. The results it gives, when everything works fine, are good. But there's just too much to fix and fettle all the time, and next time I'll go with something that's bullet-proof.

Someone made a comment in this thread that single-action is fine for car modelling, and I'm intrigued by that point. Does anyone know of a good reason for double-action if painting cars only?

Graham

[Veyron]

Originally Posted by 935k3

I have 5 airbrushes. 3 Paasche(H,VL,VLST-PRO), 1 Badger(175) and 1 Iwata(Eclipse). They are all quality airbrushes and I use them for different stuff but my workhorse is the Badger 175 Crescendo. It has a very wide trigger range and stays very clean with just running thinner through it. I rarely take it apart. The Aztecs are toylike compared to these. Some of the Paasche have been the same design for 50 years because they are quality. Badger has a lifetime guarantee on the teflon seal and will replace it for free. Iwatas are considered some of the best by professionals. If search on Google you can find some reviews from users on diiferent airbrushes.

I have only the Crescendo and I keep the large tip in it. It doesn't have to be disassembled to clean, just put it nose down in some thinner a few minutes then spray thinner through it. Handiest airbrush I've ever had. I do want to try an Iwata some day.

[pawlie]

I've been using a Paasche H single action for 10 years now, they're really cheap (about $50) and easy to clean. It does everything I need.

Just my 2 cents


I would like to try an Iwata, just to see what a $500 airbrush is like!

[Porsnatic]

As some of you guys have said here, my workhorse is the Crescendo 175, but, my first one was the Testor's professional model(1997), which I think evoluted as the Aztec series. This one, even some of you guys don't like it, I feel has more control for retouching or some small area airbrushing work than the Badger 175, at least for me.

Now, I'm thinking of buy a Gunze Sangyo Procon Boy Platinum 270. Does anyone here has tried it?

[Sixx]

Originally Posted by Porsnatic

my workhorse is the Crescendo 175

I seems that this one does a great job for a number of you! I appreciate all the great information in this thread, I have a better understanding of how no individual area matters more than the other. They all have a role, the type of brush, the pressure you're shooting at, the type of paint and its thickness!

I'm especially appreciative of the awesome shots by proosen, I had no idea that's what the inside of that brush looked like!

[stevenoble]

I never tried the Testors/Aztek airbrushes so I can't comment on them.I started out with a Badger 200 series and this was generally good but the teflon washer inside needed replacing too often.Same story with the Badger 150 I progressed to later.I now use the Tamiya Spraywork HG Single action for all my basic painting needs and the Tamiya HG Wide Trigger Type Double Action for all my heavier body painting.Both excellent brushes.Easy to use and clean and very robust.They are I believe made for Tamiya by the same company that produces the Iwata brushes.They're certainly worth a look.

[Sixx]

After some exhuastive reasearch into both the Badger and Iwata airbrushes, I am leaning more toward the Iwata.

What is the difference between the single action and double action?

[freakray]

Double action means the trigger controls both the paint flow and air. Single action means the trigger only controls the air flow.

You have 100% more control with a double action airbrush as you can control the volume of paint you spray as well as the spray width.
With single action, it's either spraying or it's not. (to put it in simple terms)

[rod_k2]

Buddy here never gave me a single problem!

I love it. Gotta try some hotter paints with it...But no problems at all! Someone even told me it had some iwata parts on it...Comes with a compressor. I plan changing it in a not so near future,but...What the heck!
Cleaning it is simple,just put some thinner and spray it hard...and then cleab the nozzle tip. After the paint "marathon" I clean it completely (wich is sorta hassle) and store the metal parts in thinner...Actually,the only plastic thing that has contact with paint is the paint jar. The rest,all metal/brass.

[Sixx]

After tonight, I'm convinced that that Testors is Azcrap. Cause that's about what it did.

I'm looking at an Iwata HP-Cplus model. It has a .3mm nozzle. will that give me a wide spray to lay the paint down nice on my builds?

I'm not quite sure what that means.

[klutz_100]

Based on personal experience I would say you are better off with the CR with a 0,5 needle - it is somewhat more flexible in terms of the paints you can spray and easier to work with on larger areas. You will also be able to still do pretty fine painting with it (especially with masking)

I bought a HP Cplus first and painted bodies with it but soon felt that the wider coverage of the CR would be better for painting and clearing bodies. The good thing with the HP C+ is that you can detail paint without masking quite often.

I now have both of them and can do anything but if you can only afford one for now, I would (with the benefit of hindsight) say go for the CR.

Check out this thread also

[924_CarreraGTS]

How is the Iwata Revolution BCR? I've been doing research and this seems like the best bet from Iwata in the lower price range. I think I will get it, unless it turns out to be grossly unsuited for models (but I don't think ANY quality airbrush can be)

Alex

[CeeElle]

i've been very happy with my Tamiya "Spraywork HG" airbrush. it's made by Iwata. all metal construction, easy to disassemble for cleaning and no trouble whatsoever. i picked it up on eBay.

[Sixx]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

Based on personal experience I would say you are better off with the CR with a 0,5 needle - it is somewhat more flexible in terms of the paints you can spray and easier to work with on larger areas.

Well, did it! I bought the Iwata HP-CR! I'm very excited to get it! I got it for 69 bucks for the brush and a 10' hose. Delivered all 86 bucks!

thanks to everyone for the great advice! Also, I did some research on an airbrushing forum and they really liked this model as well as Scale auto mag!
Thanks klutz for convincing me and learning from your hindsight!
take it easy

[Sixx]

Will this brush be able to handle hot paints like automotive basecoats/clearcoats?