Working Lowrider

[flyonthewall]

Originally posted by Bong_the_Monkey
Here is diagram of a possible setup. The way it works, it that as the motor turns it winds the fishing line around the motor shaft, pulling the axle up, squishing the spring, flip the switch so that the motor unravels the line, releasing tension on the spring, What do you think?

<img>http://files.automotiveforums.com/up...kingHydros.jpg</img>

Wouldn't it be better to use servo's? You could then have each wheel working independantly with a servo at each.

[rmg313]

try the 1/25 revell 94- 96 impala ss. it is huge and has a big trunk and

the engine bay is as well, you can easyly stuff all the motors at all four

corners no joke i have built this kit many times 4 to be exact and it is a

perfect car for what you need.







.....other ground since 1972.*l

[Bong_the_Monkey]

Originally posted by flyonthewall


Wouldn't it be better to use servo's? You could then have each wheel working independantly with a servo at each.

Fly, what's the difference between a servo and a normal motor at each wheel?

Also what does everyone think about starting a new thread to show the actual progress of this build up?

[Bong_the_Monkey]

Well, just an update. We had decided to go with the 1959 Impala kit. We are testing springs and spring mounts, also we are working on the switch box. Can't decide between a up button and a down button for each motor or pay 10 bucks for a single rocker switch, we need 4 switches or 8 buttons

[TURBO_EK4]

How many motors are you using?

[flyonthewall]

Originally posted by Bong_the_Monkey


Fly, what's the difference between a servo and a normal motor at each wheel?

Also what does everyone think about starting a new thread to show the actual progress of this build up?

Well i don't know a great deal about servo's but i would have thought they would be better for this coz you have greater control over them. With your motor idea i dont understand how you will reverse them to unreal the fishing line

[Bong_the_Monkey]

Fly, the switch box would have a remote control type switch and be hooked up that way.

We have been testing different springs and have decided that we need to devise I new method be cause once the srings get longer then the size of a pen spring then they tend to bend all over the place. Does anyone have any ideas?

[2000-redrider]

Here's what I did with a '59 convertible. Only two motors, so it only goes front and back. You could probably put two more motors up front but you'd lose the engine though. Like you, my goal was to keep as much of the original car as possible.

[2000-redrider]

Here's a shot of the underside. As you can see, I threaded the line through the engine. My plan was to continue all the way down through the drive shaft but I never finished it.

[Bong_the_Monkey]

2000-redrider, How does that setup work?? Is it a T-slider setup or the U-bar? If so, how does it work? I am trying to figure out my axle setups now. Is it possible to get some bigger more detailed pics? Maybe a diagram? Maybe even a short how-to?

[2000-redrider]

I went with a U-bar set up since I wasn't doing any side to side motion. A T slider would probably be easier if you are. I'll see if I can put a short how-to together.

[Bong_the_Monkey]

2000-redrider, would the u-bar setup not work for side to side if I had a string tied to the bar near the ends and made the holes in the chasis a little bigger to allow for the slight angle the bar would be at?? Not sure if it matters but I am using AMT's Lil' Red Express Pickup as my test model. I am modifing the frame so that the kit sits really low, the reason I am doing this is because, well I started to lower the truck so I might as well finish it. I have the front done. Does this affect how the setup will work? Should I put it bac to normal?

[2000-redrider]

The U bar set up will work for side to side, I just think the t slider would be easier. Personally I like the U bar set up becuase I think it looks better. Lowering the chassis should actually make things easier. It will allow you to use a longer "U". The length of the U is what will determine the how high you'll be able to raise the car.

[Bong_the_Monkey]

2000-redrider, sorry if this is starting to get annoying, it is just you are the first person with a working suspension system to answer me thourghly. I only have a few more questions. Here they are:

1. What did you use to make the "U" bar?
2. How do you get the tension off of the line?
3. What did you use to make your switch box?
4. What kind of switches did you you(not overly important)

For letting the tension off of the bar I was thinking of having a switch that would just reverse the motor, creating slack, thus lowering the car.

That pretty much covers it I think. You and everyone else has been very helpful. Look forward to a progress thread on my test model sometime next week.

[2000-redrider]

I don't mind answering your questions. I just hope this info could be of some use to you.
1.) I just used brass rod. It's plenty strong enough and easy to bend into shape.
2.) There is no constant tension on the line. The motor will only pull and hold the line when the button is depressed. The weight of the car unwinds the line when the button is released. With this set up, you really can't keep the car in a raised postion too long or you'll burn the motors out.
3. The switch box is just a "project" box, available at Radio Shack.
4. There are a variety of buttons or switches you can use. Just go to Radio Shack (or similar store) and see which ones will work best for you.

Looking forward to seeing what kind of progress you make.

Also, the '58 Impala is another good candidate for this kind of project.