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Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works?
View Poll Results: Which engine?
JDM b16a SirII 3 18.75%
JDM b18c 13 81.25%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16  
Old 05-01-2002, 01:29 PM
Marasmus Marasmus is offline
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B18c....but....

Okay. A B16a would be a slightly easier swap. It would also give you the money to do all-new exhaust and intake, which you will need before you even start your car with either one of these engines.

However, a B16a is limited in how far it can be modified, compared to the B18c.

If you're planning on building up either one of these engines significantly past stock (replacing internals), I wouldn't buy one from honda directly. Pull one from a totaled car and save yourself at least a thousand bucks. Plus, it'll make the install a lot more fun, knowing you've built up and restored the engine yourself.

I'd go with the B18c.... but don't go pushing it hard until you've got an exhaust at-or-above spec for a 'teg GS-R! The little straw of an exhaust on a stock civic LX will put enough backpressure on that engine to blow gaskets out!
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2002, 04:34 PM
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Re: B18c....but....

Quote:
Originally posted by Marasmus

I'd go with the B18c.... but don't go pushing it hard until you've got an exhaust at-or-above spec for a 'teg GS-R! The little straw of an exhaust on a stock civic LX will put enough backpressure on that engine to blow gaskets out!
Actually, I already have a 2.25 inch custom re-pipe coming out of an APEXi exhaust.
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2002, 12:17 AM
ratchicken ratchicken is offline
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hey carnutt is your apexi the n1? cause if it i have the same setup
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2002, 03:27 PM
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Why doesnt that link work for me?

Is the price $3,300 + shipping ?
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  #20  
Old 05-04-2002, 09:28 PM
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Lightbulb I say...

Hey. I say go with the B-18. Basicly the better your platform the more effective mods like intake headers and a cat back will be. You obvoisly have some flow in order to do the swap in the first place. so basicly , unless you lose your job, (knock on wood) you'll always have a steady flow. Unless your on some kind of time limit, the B-18's future mods can wait. As they say "Pacientce is a virtue." (agh! Dam my spelling sucks. But you get the point.) :licker:
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2002, 02:49 AM
jOYRiDe jOYRiDe is offline
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dont forget about insurance costs... would the insurance be cheaper if u dropped the b16a in the car compared to dropping the b18c in?
i'd go b18c, like Rein said, its only money and you'll get more of it later
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2002, 04:48 PM
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People...

I finally figured it out. I found out that I can get a Frankenstein b20/b16head for about the same price or even cheaper than I can get the b18. Guess what I'm going with. It'll just take a little longer for the install.

As a disclaimer, although this is what I've decided so far, I won't get the funds to do it till the first week of June. A lot of things can happen in a month, so stay tuned.

P.S. Thanks for everybody's advice so far...
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  #23  
Old 05-10-2002, 06:10 PM
zigen zigen is offline
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Your link is not working for me either.
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  #24  
Old 05-10-2002, 08:02 PM
S2Corolla S2Corolla is offline
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Good choice carrrnut. The b20 block is a really strong block to work with. you're going to get a good compression out of the b16 head on there.
For cams, I personally recommend CTR cams, because I heard they're more aggressive than ITR cams. And while they're installing the head try to get some JDM ITR pistons installed, and get that b16 head modded, port and polish and get titanium retainers with dual valve springs... That way you can rev up to 10,000 RPM and take advantage of that port and polish and cam set. Don't take the gears up to 10,000 rpm, maybe 9000 at the most, like the Type R's.
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  #25  
Old 05-10-2002, 08:04 PM
S2Corolla S2Corolla is offline
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Oh yeah and check out this site guys...
www.jdmhondaparts.com
They have b18c swap for 3300, and they have an h22 swap for 2500 full.
They also offer conversion kits JDM, and all kinds of other stuff.
That's who I'm gonna call to get an H22 swap when I get an Integra.
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  #26  
Old 05-12-2002, 09:35 AM
88ReX 88ReX is offline
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his link is supposed to be www.hondamotorsonline.com

I was wondering also, it says that the complete engine swap comes with motor mounts....does that mean you won't need to get the mounts from hasport? or will they not match up? I was curious about that
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  #27  
Old 12-12-2002, 08:28 PM
YOUNGSTER YOUNGSTER is offline
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why itr pistons ctr pistons have high compression ratio!
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  #28  
Old 12-12-2002, 08:30 PM
YOUNGSTER YOUNGSTER is offline
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higher
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  #29  
Old 01-08-2003, 11:33 PM
allabtimprts allabtimprts is offline
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THE B20/B16

I WOULD GO WITH THE CRVTEC, YOU NEED MONEY FOR THAT ALONE. THE CRV BLOCK WILL GIVE YOU THE TORQUE AND THE B16 HEAD WOULD BE AWESOME HORSE POWER. REMEMBER THE B16 HAS LOW TORQUE THE B18 IS HIGHER BUT THE B20 OR A LS/VTEC HAS THE LOW END POWER AND THE TOP END POWER SO YOU CAN DEFINATELY TAKE OFF THE LINE AND SPANK EM'.
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  #30  
Old 01-20-2003, 03:15 PM
edman24 edman24 is offline
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yah the b20vtec is great but dont listen to that "build the head so you can rev to 10k" bull. rev a b20 block to 10k and watch all that money you spent on it come out of the crank case in a bad way. im probably getting this hatch with the b20 in it already but understand something. this block is not meant to rev anywhere near that high. at above 8000 things start going terribly wrong. get that engine and build the head if you want but i would set the vtec crossover lower and shift early if you want you engine to last more than a month. the itr or ctr pistons are definitely the way to go though. without them you wont get much hp because the crv pistons are too low compression
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