Long tube vs Short tube

[HighRev87]

Originally Posted by GTStang

With a 4.6 you don't have a choice cause I think only BBK makes equi-distant shorties for the 4.6 and there not as good, as the good old 5.0 equi-shorties due to no room.

LT are your only option over stock truly worth exercising on the 4.6.

Well how about BBK vs. Hooker? I heard they give equal power but the Hookers sound alot nicer? Any experience comparing the two?

[smokin' joe]

Originally Posted by HighRev87

I was actually looking to do my exhaust after christmas from the headers back. I was thinking long tube because manufacturer claims are up to 20hp, while with most shorts it is 10-15. I also heard that the difference in sound between shorts and longtubes is night and day.

yes, the long tube headers r the best sounding headers on the market but there r some draw backs if you want to lower your car go with shortys but if you want full power go with long tubes.

[HighRev87]

Originally Posted by smokin' joe

yes, the long tube headers r the best sounding headers on the market but there r some draw backs if you want to lower your car go with shortys but if you want full power go with long tubes.

Hmm, so long tubes + lowering = big no no? Didnt know that. However when I got this car I reminded myself, power over looks with everything I do. Although I would have liked to lower the car, it would have only been for a more agressive look not really for the handling, So i can do without.

[eillob]

Originally Posted by GTStang

Just read it, article is a little misleading look at the two dyno charts.

Yeah the chart is a little wierd. It looks like the LT headers make power everywhere except in the 3,000 rpm range. Well Im lookin for torque so I think Im gonna go for it and just get'em. If theres one thing all articles seem to agree on is that over all the long tubes do deliver max power.

[StangNut86]

Originally Posted by HighRev87

Hmm, so long tubes + lowering = big no no? Didnt know that. However when I got this car I reminded myself, power over looks with everything I do. Although I would have liked to lower the car, it would have only been for a more agressive look not really for the handling, So i can do without.

it's a ground clearance issue... long-tubes stick out lower than your stock h-pipe would because of engine bay clearance problems, so lowering your car is just asking for problems. you lose about an inch or 2 over stock.

[GTStang]

Originally Posted by eillob

Yeah the chart is a little wierd. It looks like the LT headers make power everywhere except in the 3,000 rpm range. Well Im lookin for torque so I think Im gonna go for it and just get'em. If theres one thing all articles seem to agree on is that over all the long tubes do deliver max power.

The LT are making more max HP&Torque in the charts just later in the rpm band. But with 3.73's you already have that will work out sweet for you in the 1320.

With LT's you will lose some ground clearance but I had a 1" drop wit LT's and would only scrap on speed bumps so it wasn't unbearable.

[HighRev87]

Originally Posted by GTStang

With LT's you will lose some ground clearance but I had a 1" drop wit LT's and would only scrap on speed bumps so it wasn't unbearable.

Alright, the only reason I was looking into the drop is that the car (99+) Looks very high off the wheelbase. And I dont want to replace the wheels (too much money for non performance), So I figured a lil drop will do it good. This way, Ill just put the money for the drop towards something with alil push

[cheap5.0]

As long as were are talking about this how about dispelling a little rumor. I have heard from a feww people that you need to raise the engine a few inches or you need to remove it almost completly to install them. I have only removed a couple 5.0's and they were both stock, but it does't seem like you should have to do anything other than work around some of the shit in the engine bay. So do i have to lift it, or can i leave it be when i install these?

[StangNut86]

Originally Posted by cheap5.0

As long as were are talking about this how about dispelling a little rumor. I have heard from a feww people that you need to raise the engine a few inches or you need to remove it almost completly to install them. I have only removed a couple 5.0's and they were both stock, but it does't seem like you should have to do anything other than work around some of the shit in the engine bay. So do i have to lift it, or can i leave it be when i install these?

i can't find any way to get the headers past the transmission without lifting the motor. and believe me i've tried. removing the trans would be one way to get them past the k-member, but raising the motor to create clearance is the least time-consuming.

[HighRev87]

Originally Posted by StangNut86

i can't find any way to get the headers past the transmission without lifting the motor. and believe me i've tried. removing the trans would be one way to get them past the k-member, but raising the motor to create clearance is the least time-consuming.

Im assuming the exhaust install should be left to some professionals then. I was planning on doing it with some buddies with the "we'll figure it out" attitude. I really would like to say all that was done to the car was done by me, but I have no auto class at my school, and dont have times to fit in a class at the local college, so my knowledge is limited. Should I just goto a shop? How much will they charge (about)?

[StangNut86]

Originally Posted by HighRev87

Im assuming the exhaust install should be left to some professionals then. I was planning on doing it with some buddies with the "we'll figure it out" attitude. I really would like to say all that was done to the car was done by me, but I have no auto class at my school, and dont have times to fit in a class at the local college, so my knowledge is limited. Should I just goto a shop? How much will they charge (about)?

i got charged out my ass having a shop install my long-tubes (cuz it all had to be done at once). jack the car up as high as you possibly can with tall jack-stands to support it. take out the 4 small motor mount bolts that go directly to the block. place a jack on the bottom of the harmonic damper and jack the motor up until it starts to pick the car up off the stands (stop there =) ). then with some manhandling of the headers you should be able to hand them up through the gaps on either side. at the very worst you'll have to remove the starter and/or the steering shaft.

[bigbob]

iv herd that if you go with an off road h pipe and a stright trhough exhaust you really should go shorties because they add a bit of back pressure. {porbly wont matter on a blown car tho} i have a 95 gt i wanted to throw lt/s on it and drop it 18's +a 2 inch drop spring {the 18s should bring it up about a 1/2 inch im asumming that isnt gunna work? what do u think the lowest u could drop it would be. thanks

[StangNut86]

how much backpressure you can afford to lose depends on the resilience of your exhaust valves. i've broken stock valves running an open header before, it's not pretty. with long-tubes, if you run a good muffler and stick with 2.5in. pipes you should be fine. i'm running that in the stang and my exhaust valves are still very much intact.