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#16
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depends if you want understeer or oversteer on your car. if you get a bigger bar in the back then u will get oversteer and if u get a smaller bar in back then understeer. it all depends how your suspension is set up. you must realize that if you dont know what you are doing, you can actually spin out. one of my friends got a big 24 mm rear sway bar in the back and had no sway bar in the front. major oversteer
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#17
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What exactly is oversteer and understeer? Can I get the same size for the back and the front? Which do you think would be the best size for the sways?
Jackasssi where you at? |
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#18
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Oversteer = FUN! - oversteer is when you go through a corner and the ass end wants or does kick out , making you turn the front wheels the opposite way of the corner & increasing throttle.(loose = fast)
Understeer = NO FUN! - understeer is when you go through a corner & the front of the car doesn't want to turn. The front end pushes & you must increase steering and/or reduce throttle to make it through the corner.(tight = slow) You can get the same size front & rear, but you will have better handling with a larger rear bar & a smaller front bar. Right now my ST front bar is collecting dust. I am running the ST rear with a stock front bar. The ST in the front gave way to much understeer(push). Rear bar is on stiffest setting. 24-25mm / 7/8-3/4" rear bar 15-20mm front bar (whatever that is in inches) Yes you should bleed the coolant after a t-stat replacement. Is your fan turning on? |
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#19
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So what size should I get 24or25 and do you know if that will rub? Should I get the st kit with lower tie and sway? will it out performe the so called kit I want dc lower tie and skunk2 sway? Will the st kit give me better handles then the (dc/skunk2)
My fan turn on about 215 and that way to hot. The temp gauge starts to go up.So I bypass it so that it turn on all the time, but when it's really hot outside the fan dosen't help. To me I think that I have poor circulation. I have change the fan switch,thermostat, coolant temp switch, and I have a new C&R alum radiator. Do you think that it is a bad water pump. The last time I change it was about 45,000 miles ago.Right now I have 250.000 and I'v only change it once. I got the car used a 230.000 and I been driving it really hard!!!!! |
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#20
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How are you using the car? Street or racing?
If you only gonna do street driving, keep your lower tie & slap a rear sway on. For racing switch to the ST rear kit. Will it rub? Install & you shall find out. |
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#21
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it's for street, it's just that I want to get the most out of my cars handles.
So if it rubs dose that mean that I stuck with that problem?No way around it? what about the heating problem? |
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#22
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If you want the best handling, you'll need a lot more that just sway bars. For the street just add a larger rear sway.
The exhaust can be bent if it rubs. |
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#23
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So what else would you suggest for better handles>? The exhaust pipe can be bent?
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#24
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For the best handling, set-up like a race car. Make all parts as light as possible.
Fully adjustable coil-overs Camber kit Adjustable large rear/med. front sway bars F/R lower tie bars full roll cage good tires without good tires are your suspension is a waste. |
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#25
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why coil-overs and camber it's just for street and the roads over here are pretty much the same?What kind if tires? The front lower tie, are they worth it?Wont it scrape pretty is? or no? I am pretty careful go up driveway with my lower rear I've never scrape. But isn't the front more lower to the ground even thow my car is lower evenly. 1.5 front and 1.7 in the back.Right now my suspension is spoon front upper dc rear upper and lower ground controls coil overs and tokico adjustable Tires are 17''yokohama parada spec 2. Is this pretty good?coming soon skunk2 rear sway 22mm and st front sway 16mm
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#26
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You asked for the best handling.
Front tie bar is worth it if you want better handling. Yes it might scrape. The front usually sits lower than the rear You suspension is all good except for those GC coilovers Parada spec-2 is a good tire For tires you want a performance style instead of an all-weather passenger tire |
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#27
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Did you get the reply for the message you sent me?
Whats wrong with the GC coilovers? If not yokahma then what would you suggest for better performance? If I were to get a front lower tie and I scrape it could that possible mest up the sub-frame by bending it or would I just end up fu$king the bar?Do you have one? or no anybody who has one that has had problems? |
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#28
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Sleeve type coil-overs are nothing but headaches. Shock perches were not intended for a metal collars & may break. They also dont lower the car properly. Only way to go is with a true coilover set or spring/shocks.
If you hit something hard enough to bend the frame, the lower tie wont matter. It will bend anyway. I have one & have not had any scraping problems, mines also custom made from 3/4" solid steel rod & dont hang. those tires you have are good Dunlop FM901 / 9000 Goodyear F1 Kumho Ecsta competions /supra Yoko AO32R soft compound |
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#29
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i would go for an ITR rear sway bar and a stock front sway bar, but thats just my style. depends on how good of a driver you are. if you dont know what you're doin and throw on a beefy 24mm rear sway bar w.o a front sway bar and starting hittin the mountain roads, good luck! ur gonna need it!
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#30
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so are you saying that the ITR is better then the skunk2 sway?
Hey jackassi what do you mean that it dosen't hand. It dose go under the down pipe right? Do you really feel that it helps?(lower front tie) are the yoko the (advans)? which one woud be the best? So do think that the chances of me scraping the lower tie? I like to think that I am a pretty good driver. To me if it looks to steep then I don't go up? But then agian there always the first times. How long have you had your? What do you say. Always when I ask the shops they say that they wouldn't not recomand it. |
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