Max Safe Boost on R33 25T

[Ethan_R33]

J-spec,
are you going to do the tech article on the J-spec website???
If so when do you reckon youll be able to do it by? That would be really helpful.

Andrew

[Ethan_R33]

Hey J-spec,
Heres a pic of my boost solonoid. It has the wire but only one hose going into it???? Dunno if this is right becoz everyone else says that u have 2 hoses going into it. Maybe something to do with the HKS intercooler?????

So could you please explain which hoses go where, and how to remove this and fit in the turbosmart (duel stage) controller???

Thanks,
Andrew

[J-Spec Imports]

Well it appears that someone has already played around with your plumbing - I have an HKS intercooler in one of my R33's and the plumbing is still standard - here are a few things to do first....

it looks like the hose marked with a YELLOW line goes down to 20mm diameter black metal pipe that runs along the side of the engine from front to back (in the area marked with a BLUE dot) - if it is then you need to pull one end of that hose off the solonoid and block it up with a screw.

next you should just cut the hose marked with RED at one end and GREEN at the other and fit the TurboSmart Y-splitter part in there with the arrow pointing towards the GREEN.

then run a hose from the Y-splitter to the dual stage boost controller and mount it somewhere - keep all these hoses reasonably short for best results

run wires into the cabin so you can fit the switch



I hope this reads alright nad is easy to understand - you can call me when you are in front of the car if you like.

[denjam69]

nice heat shield!

whats it made from?

[Ethan_R33]

hey thanks heaps J-spec. that is REALLY helpful.

So youre saying i can unplug the yellow hose from the soloniod (where your yellow mark is) then block that up with a screw???Could i cut it shorter then block it up??? And im pretty sure you are right, that it connects up to a thick black hose that runs horizontal.

So then is the red/green hose the vaccuum line, because i was told by autobarn to fit it to the vaccuum line.

[Ethan_R33]

denjamin: its a turbo partition i got from Unique auto sports. It is a foam material with a reflective side on the other side. works VERY good.

[Ethan_R33]

also j-spec, do i do anything with the wire going to the boost solonoid??

[J-Spec Imports]

Yes, you can cut that hose as short as you like and plug it up... make sure the screw is good and tight, maybe wrap a cable tie around it too - if it comes out the car will run rough

Yup, the RED-GREEN hose is your vacuum line that you cut to fit the new boost valve to..

as for the wires to the solonoid - just unbolt the solonoid and throw it out and cable tie the plug back out of the way

- don't forget to book a dyno run to set it up properly if you intend to run high boost (you have to be sure your boost guage is accurate)

[Ethan_R33]

ok thanks j-spec.

So the wires then arent used for anything after i swap over to the turbosmart controller then?

Also i live way up in mildura, and the closest dyno is actually in melb

So i cant really get to a dyno.... Im going to fit a speco boost gauge to it, so is this accurate enough???
I just cant get to a dyno, is it safe to do it without using one??

[96GTS25Tii]

Hey J-Spec,

Excellent Instructions Man ! Thanks.

BTW do you know what the differences are between the old blue turbosmart controllers and the new red ones ?

Is it just the adjustment mechanism or is there increased performance with the red ones ?

In NZ there are no red ones for a few weeks, so I am considering buying the blue one this week . Should I wait or should I just get the blue one ?

Thanks
Ajay

[J-Spec Imports]

the gauge might be accurate, but you have to be sure there are no restrictions in the plumbing and that it is running from the correct place in the engine bay - as long as you check it pretty well you should be alright.... and maybe only run about 12psi max. to be sure you don't get any detonation.


GraemeWi - to answer your question from before..

if you increase the boost to around 12psi with the factory solonoid still being used, when the revs reach around 4500 the solonoid will open causing the boost to increase to around 15-16psi which will cause detonation.

[J-Spec Imports]

Ajay,

they claim to have increased performance from the new red ones because of a better gated design that allows the boost to climb quicker - in reality I have used both and noticed no difference apart from the appearance...
...I think for the cheaper price and easier install the old blue style is probably the best choice.

[Ethan_R33]

yeah im just not too sure where the gauge plugs into. Its a speco one so i think its a mechanical one (havent picked it up yet)

[moondog]

Originally posted by J-Spec Imports
if you increase the boost to around 12psi with the factory solonoid still being used, when the revs reach around 4500 the solonoid will open causing the boost to increase to around 15-16psi which will cause detonation.

This relates somewhat to my question in another thread. Do I need a boost controller to bypass the factory solenoid, and that annoying 2-stage boost thing? Or can I keep standard boost, but have it all from earlier on???

[J-Spec Imports]

you do not need a boost controller to increase boost, but it is best to use one - and for only about $100, it is worth it to be able to adjust it in the future.

you could possibly wire the factory solonoid up so that it is open all the time giving you higher boost constantly - it would not be too hard to do, but I am not too sure if the solonoid has a one-way valve to stop vacuum leaking back through when the turbo is not boosting (if it doesn't then the car might not idle properly and could run lean)

I will be doing a little more research on the factory solonoid soon when I fit one to a GT Starlet turbo as a simple boost controller.