|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
|
tSina,
DO NOT! change the weight/viscosity of your oil. The only time/reason would be if you developed a rod knock, or other highly worn part, and you are trying to squeeze the last ounce of life from the motor. Then you would go to a heavier weight.
__________________
Why isn't common courtesy more common? |
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
|
Use 5w30 or 0w30 synthetic. I love Amsoil used in two civics: 1999 lx and 1996 lx . I posted the oil analysis reports on www.synthetic-lubricants.com. check it out
__________________
George J Lapchak |
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
|
i go with mineral oil, because i run a rotary, and it generally burns cleaner than synthetic (my engine injects oil into the chambers) as for weight, i run 20-50 in the summer, 10-40 in the fall/spring, and 5-30 in the winter. Castrol GTX too.
If i choose to remove my oil injectors and run premix, then ill run mobil 1
__________________
|
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
One more thing about Synthetic Oil. You may be required to run a synthetic lubricant to get the service intervals recommended by your manufacturer (failure to use them can invalidate the powertrain warranty). Not all synthetic oils meet the relevant manufacturers standards so you need to check and in some cases some mineral oils may comply whereas some synthetics may not.
Personally, it may be a needless expense on my part but I tend to change the filter and lubricant at twice the recommended intervals ie if it says 20,000 kms I change it every 10,000 kms. I tend to drive a lot of commuting but I mix it up with long distance driving every so often - and I tend to use more revs than the average pedaller. If you do use your vehicle in harsh or hard conditions (eg very hot or cold or high load situations) it would something to consider. I've always considered the cost of oil, filters (and not to mention better fuel) to be a small price to pay for the reliability and longevity of my powertrain. |
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
|
I make it a point to change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. I am VERY strickt about this because I used to own a turbocharged car. Now I use normal 10W-30 in the Vision. In the GTC project it will get only Mobile 1 synthetic. I hear it is a lot better for a turbo application. Also what weight would be best? 5W-30 or 10W-30?
|
|
#21
|
|||
|
|||
|
Either Mobil 1 or AMSOIL. I've heard some bad stuff about Castrol. (And Castrol sounds like Castrate, which may be another reason why I shy away from it.
)
__________________
Some things are impossible, people say. Yet after these things happen, the very same people say that it was inevitable. |
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hey If a person lives in a place like Miami, where temperatures drop no lower than 60 degrees. Does the winter weight of oil actually matter?
|
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
|
it's not as important, obviously, but remember that oil in the running engine is 200F in the pan, and hotter elsewhere, so 60deg is still pretty cold. Also, keep in mind that a multi-grade oil doesn't just have two viscosities. The viscosity varies continuously with temperature. A 5W-30 oil will have a viscosity lower than that of a 10W-30 oil, for a substantial range of temperatures, with a more pronounced difference at lower temperatures.
__________________
Come on fhqwhgads. I see you jockin' me. Tryin' to play like... you know me... |
|
#24
|
|||
|
|||
|
Alright, thanks
|
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|