P0325 with no other codes. New distributor?

[drcoffee]

Hello all,

I have a 2000 Merc villager Estate with 140,000 miles. I watched the video of the arching coil and mine is doing that as well. My question is this. I can buy a Richporter NS60 on ebay for $135 or a new coil only for $40. Is the coil easy to install? Is the distributor worn out anyway and would this be throwing good money after bad?

http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfix...t_Misfire.html

Thanks

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by drcoffee

Hello all,

I have a 2000 Merc villager Estate with 140,000 miles. I watched the video of the arching coil and mine is doing that as well. My question is this. I can buy a Richporter NS60 on ebay for $135 or a new coil only for $40. Is the coil easy to install? Is the distributor worn out anyway and would this be throwing good money after bad?

http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfix...t_Misfire.html

Thanks

Can you post the link for the coil???

I suspect that if the coil is jumping like you say that the CMPS and distibutor bearing will probably fail in the near future.

Make sure the distributor has the lifetime warranty for that price.

I have not heard of anyone replacing the coil on ths forum or the other forum I am on.

I personally would install the new distributor for the piece of mind.

just my opinion

[drcoffee]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Can you post the link for the coil???

coil
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Nissan-Q...67420e&vxp=mtr

richporter 1 yr warranty
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Richporter-T...6f2bee&vxp=mtr

isn't the warranty from the manufacturer? interesting, he may not be an authorized reseller then.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by drcoffee

coil
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Nissan-Q...67420e&vxp=mtr

richporter 1 yr warranty
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Richporter-T...6f2bee&vxp=mtr

isn't the warranty from the manufacturer? interesting, he may not be an authorized reseller then.

If you look at the page for the distributor at the bottom left it states a 1 year manufactor warranty. Other Richporter I have seen are lifetime warranty.

Sending PM.

[drcoffee]

I posted a video on youtube of my distributor. Tell me if this looks normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6rOG...i9ObC8Iy4cwVc=

you can't see it in the video but at the base of the coil where the spark jumps to the housing, there is a white char/ash mark on the base of the plastic coil tower.

[tempfixit]

To me it looks like spark is jumping out the bottom to ground also.

Do you have a old coil wire or spark plug wire that you could insert into coil rower and then crank to see if the spark still jumps out the bottom of tower.

EDIT: I looked at video several times and stopped it as watching and I noticed that the spark is always coming out the top of tower. Sometimes it jumps down the back of the tower and arcs across to gound. It should be OK.

[drcoffee]

I'm fairly certain the coil has a small crack at the base. There's a white char mark there and it's been idleing rough for about a year +or-

My crank balancer has 7 timing marks. Are these in 5 degree increments? Its tough to tell which is the 15 degree mark.

EDIT: Found it. I watched the video again and its the 4th mark. 0, 5, 10, 15, etc.

[drcoffee]

Update:

I went to re-test the distributor this morning with a plug wire and I didn't see a spark so I removed the wire and didn't see a spark so I put it back together and the van would not start. All the fuses were good and there were no codes other than P0325. I went ahead and installed the new distributor and it fired right up. So I'm guessing the old one gave up the ghost on us. Still can't drive it because I need a timing light which I'll get once one of our other vehicles comes home.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by drcoffee

Update:

I went to re-test the distributor this morning with a plug wire and I didn't see a spark so I removed the wire and didn't see a spark so I put it back together and the van would not start. All the fuses were good and there were no codes other than P0325. I went ahead and installed the new distributor and it fired right up. So I'm guessing the old one gave up the ghost on us. Still can't drive it because I need a timing light which I'll get once one of our other vehicles comes home.

Just curious if you looked at the old distributor to see if the bearing was going bad and if there was any brownish dust on the optical sensor???

Did the ruff idle disappear with the new distributor?

[drcoffee]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Just curious if you looked at the old distributor to see if the bearing was going bad and if there was any brownish dust on the optical sensor???

Did the ruff idle disappear with the new distributor?

I bought a timing light and set it to 15* BTC @ 740 rpm. The idle is smooth now. I still get the P0325 code (only). Any idea why?

I'll re-check the distributor again but I cleaned well about a year ago so there may not be enough dust to see on it.

Is there any value in the old core distr.?

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by drcoffee

I bought a timing light and set it to 15* BTC @ 740 rpm. The idle is smooth now. I still get the P0325 code (only). Any idea why?

I'll re-check the distributor again but I cleaned well about a year ago so there may not be enough dust to see on it.

Is there any value in the old core distr.?

I do not believe there is any core value on the distributor.

I assume you cleared the codes, correct??

Some have said that just closing their hood would set the pending knock code. Is the check engine light on or is a pending code?

It may take some time for the computor to relearn, just a thought.

[drcoffee]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

I assume you cleared the codes, correct??

Some have said that just closing their hood would set the pending knock code. Is the check engine light on or is a pending code?

It may take some time for the computor to relearn, just a thought.

No check engine light on the dash. I cleared the code ( i have a cheapy scan tool) and no other code has popped up, just P0325. I guess I'll just ignore it until it throws another code with it.

With the KS doing this, does it make the engine run richer? That's its purpose, right?

Also, I've read that the wire sub harness could also be faulty, but if it has no effect on performance, why bother.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by drcoffee

No check engine light on the dash. I cleared the code ( i have a cheapy scan tool) and no other code has popped up, just P0325. I guess I'll just ignore it until it throws another code with it.

With the KS doing this, does it make the engine run richer? That's its purpose, right?

Also, I've read that the wire sub harness could also be faulty, but if it has no effect on performance, why bother.

Since it is a pending code I agree to ignore for now. The understanding I have is that the knock sensor code retards the timing a couple of degrees, that is all.

Some have just remove the connector on the harness and hooked up a new sensor to see if that erased the code, but like you say if it doesn't affect driveablility and performance why waste the time and money.

Glad the distributor solved the rough idle.

Just out of curiosity clear the code then leave the key on and just let the hood close by letting it drop instead of gently closing it and see if that gives a P0325 code.

[drcoffee]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Just out of curiosity clear the code then leave the key on and just let the hood close by letting it drop instead of gently closing it and see if that gives a P0325 code.

Okay, I cleared the codes and with the engine off, ignition on, I dropped the hood and re-scanned. No codes. I don't think the hood is the cause.

If I buy a new KS, where else can I install it, other than the original place?