Can an '01-'03 steering rack bolt into a 1999 Windstar?

[LTDzak]

The drivers side end seal on my 150 K mile Windstar steering rack is leaking. I was wondering whether the 2001-2003 steering rack would bolt in.

What I've learned so far:
1.) The seal kit for the rack on 99-00 Windstars is common with the Taurus/Sable. After that it got its own rack.

2.) The pump is common 1999-2003, as is the resivour.

3.) According to Rockauto, A-1 Cardone and ACDelco claim 1999-2000 are unique to those years. The third rebuilder listed indicates they are common 1999-2003.

4.) Hollander interchange has separate listings for 99-00 and 01-03 for the rack.

Even better would be to replace the seal with the rack in the car, but I doubt that is possible.

Thanks for any insight. Hope I don't have to jack the engine up. LTDzak

[wiswind]

I just read the same information that you did on the Rockauto website.
I looked up 1999 and 2003 model years and got the same information.
My understanding is that when you start leaking like you mention, it is best to replace the whole unit.
I'm not a mechanic, so hopfully someone who knows more will chime in with some good guidance.

[12Ounce]

I agree with replacing the whole unit. Leaking may indicate that there is enough wear that the rack-shaft is no longer centered in the bushing/seal. There are worse things that can happen as a rack wears ... you can have the rack lock in one position suddenly.

Talk about having a bad, maybe final, day!

[Waxhaw]

A friend and I Just replaced the steering rack and pinion with inner and outer rod ends this weekend on my 2001 Windstar at 133k miles. The inner tie rods were worn out and from advice from reading 12 Ounce here and a mechanic friend replaced the whole assembly as preventitive maintenance. I bought the Ford rebuilt rack with both inner and outer rods & boots for $105 shipped to my door from Detroit Axle on e-bay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Compl...item27ba7b0215

That's about what just the rods and rubber boots cost at Aurozone and if I send the core back (prepaid address sticker by them) they refund $10. (ten) core. Lifetime gaurentee on rack. LTDzak, the listing says it fits 1995 - 2005 Windstars and Freestars. Without the outer rod ends is $95. They say they have sold 84 of them and have 100% feedback, been doing racks 20 years. I was told the rod ends are "in house, private lable" brands but looked fine and outer's have grease fittings.

Fresh installation advice: Didn't get any instructions (may have fallen out the torn box) so used instructions from Ford manual and from Autozone online. I only had to disconnect the stablizer bar at the bushings. Did not disconnect any exhaust part (rusted, frozen) and only loosened the two rear subframe bolts about 1/2 inch so did not have to support the subframe. That just expanded the bushings, wasn't any daylight in between. Feel how many threads you have when tight and don't go past that unless the subframe is supported!
Had to use a 3 foot braker bar to get the two rack nuts loose, impact wrench didn't do it, van has lived where roads were salted. NOTE - the bolts have splines and fit into splines in the aluminum rack and are knocked out when you get the rack out. When the rack was out I thought they were corroded so used a impact gun to turn them and stripped the aluminum splines in the rack destroying its core value.

I tied the steering wheel straight ahead before removing the steering pinch bolt at the rack as have heard the airbag clock spring can be damanged if turned with the steering shaft flopping around. Also you want to know where straight is when reinstalling steering.
Note / mark which fluid lines go where before removing, mine was pressure on top.
Transfer the check valve out of the pressure port of the old rack into the new. Rack came with new teflon o-rings that go into grove past the threads of pressure and return lines. The fluid lines are are hard to turn with fingers but make SURE the threads are engaging properly before putting any force on wrench.

I was able to use a car lift and we managed to get the rack out and in (driver side) without lowering the subframe hardly any as said above. Hats off to folks doing this on their backs! If doing this alone it would be hard to snake the rack out and in without lowering subframe.

I adjusted the toe in alighment sighting from a few feet behind rear wheels and noted when the sides of the front tires matched the rears. Used light colored tape on front of tires to have a color contrast. Also used a tape measure between front wheels (front treads and back treads) but can only get the tape up about halfway to center of wheel because of frame parts, so any difference is actually more. I want this measurment to be the same. Also used a 5-6 foot straight board held level against the sides of the front tires and back along the bottom of the door. On mine the three points (front and rear sides of tire and bottom door frame) touch at same time for wheel to be straight. Did this on a level surface and backed the car several links and drove forward again after each adjustment to recheck. I hold the steering wheel straight while driving forward and adjust the tie rods in or out so after adjustments
the steering wheel should not be crooked. The 2001 Windstar Workshop Manual says front toe alignment should be (toe out) -0.15 degree, plus or minus 0.25 degree. Rear wheel spec is toe in 0.06 degree, plus or minus 0.34 degree. I don't know what fraction inch at tires those are but straight ahead is in spec.

Putting new tires on so we'll see if I got it right! Heck an alignment can cost the price of a tire. I know alignment is important to safety, that's why I measure in three places for agreement and test drive the car.

Thanks to this forum and my friend helping I got this job done with enjoyment and satisfaction and saved labor charges. Except, did you know a 22 yr old can eat TWO Whoppers? I 'bout went broke feeding him.

[LTDzak]

Waxhaw, a belated thank you, your post helped a great deal. I ended up buying a complete OEM rack out of a 2001 Windstar with only 10 K miles on it, for about the same price as a rebuilt rack, figure the Ford inner and outer rod ends should last longer than the aftermarket stuff.

The rack was a complete bolt in, lines bolted right up. Had to clock the steering wheel about 1/3 of a turn to get the U joint back on, but once it was all the way down the steering wheel came back straight.

The 01 rack must have a different T-bar as it has a lighter, slightly more boosted feel.

So to answer the question, yes the racks are completely interchangeable.amongst 1999-2003 at least.

[Waxhaw]

Hey, thanks for letting us know how it turned out LTDzak. Always nice to hear the details and ending of these things, we all learn more. Happy steering.