97 Jimmy stalling when going into park

[jinxedjimmy]

I knew you were going to say that. ..I have been searching for my lost volt/ohm meters that are still packed away from my last move. So no, I only was able to do a visual inspection, with some hand checking of the connections, making sure they are tight and clean. I am going back to my storage space to find them and the rest of my tools tomorrow.

Any idea what the Corrosion Control Modules are? I have never heard of them, or been able to find anything about them online.

AJ

[MT-2500]

Never heard of corrision control modules.
Where did you find reference to them?

Find yours or borrow ot rent or buy another volt ohm meter.

Remember to check grounds as well as pos feeds.
Also check the ign switch power feeds real close.
97 had a lot of bad ign switches.

Let us know how it goes.

[jinxedjimmy]

I never found anything about the modules at all. They are a mystery, but are hooked up to the electronics on my truck, and connected directly to the frame at the wheel wells inside the engine compartment on both sides. This truck seems to have other electrical connections I have yet to identify as well. There are a ton of variations in this truck and the manual covers all the other related vehicles like Blazers and pickups in it too, so maybe a bunch of stuff was left out. Still I find it weird that I can not find one word about them online. Very weird, almost suspicious.

I hope to not have to buy another meter, especially since I own two. I am asking around to see if I can borrow one. The truck has been running like a champ in the dry weather. I am hoping I can find the short where ever it is soon, but I have had quotes on just doing the testing to find the issue, and it is a lot more than I can afford right now. The wiring harnesses are also not cheap.

Thank you again,
AJ

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by jinxedjimmy

I never found anything about the modules at all. They are a mystery, but are hooked up to the electronics on my truck, and connected directly to the frame at the wheel wells inside the engine compartment on both sides. This truck seems to have other electrical connections I have yet to identify as well. There are a ton of variations in this truck and the manual covers all the other related vehicles like Blazers and pickups in it too, so maybe a bunch of stuff was left out. Still I find it weird that I can not find one word about them online. Very weird, almost suspicious.

I hope to not have to buy another meter, especially since I own two. I am asking around to see if I can borrow one. The truck has been running like a champ in the dry weather. I am hoping I can find the short where ever it is soon, but I have had quotes on just doing the testing to find the issue, and it is a lot more than I can afford right now. The wiring harnesses are also not cheap.

Thank you again,
AJ

In 50 years of repair work I never came across a corossion control module.
My shop key does not metion them.
What brand of repair info are you using?
Are they OEM or add on stuff?
Can you post a picture of them?
Have the got a Brand or a GM part no on them?

Most strange electrical problems on a 97 goes back to rthe IGN switch.
Has you been replaced or checked out?

[jinxedjimmy]

Okay, The correct name on it is "Corrosion Control Device" (not "Module" as I mispoke before) made by Auto Saver Systems. It looks aftermarket. Probably some anti rust gimmick, which I can say for a fact has not worked . (Photo to come).

I guess it helps to have the correct name when searching for something online I guess, because here is a link I found in 3 seconds...
http://www.shinefactoryburnside.com/...ust-protection

More info about the concept...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode

not sure if the connection, or lack there of, of these things is causing the short or not, but I did find out that leak in my washer fluid is right above the cruise control electronics, and also might be seeing some rain water...other findings the more I search behind stuff too. This is going to take some time

AJ

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by jinxedjimmy

Okay, The correct name on it is "Corrosion Control Device" (not "Module" as I mispoke before) made by Auto Saver Systems. It looks aftermarket. Probably some anti rust gimmick, which I can say for a fact has not worked . (Photo to come).

I guess it helps to have the correct name when searching for something online I guess, because here is a link I found in 3 seconds...
http://www.shinefactoryburnside.com/...ust-protection

More info about the concept...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode

not sure if the connection, or lack there of, of these things is causing the short or not, but I did find out that leak in my washer fluid is right above the cruise control electronics, and also might be seeing some rain water...other findings the more I search behind stuff too. This is going to take some time

AJ

I would say them things are about as worthless as the tits on a boar hog.


If any electrical stuff hooked to them un plug it.

[jinxedjimmy]

Still checking connections, but I need a rainy day to test it out now. Thank you for all your help. Cross your fingers

AJ

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by jinxedjimmy

Still checking connections, but I need a rainy day to test it out now. Thank you for all your help. Cross your fingers

AJ

You are welcome and good luck.
And do not forget to run a voltage check on neg. and pos. circuits.

Let us know how itn goes.

[jinxedjimmy]

Update...so far we have not found any shorts in what we were able to test without a lift. Haven't checked fuel pump connections yet. Rear wipers seem to be dead too. Another mechanic told me to check my Body Control Module. Can't find its location in the Chilton manual. It also has not stalled/turned off again, but we have had a long dry spell.

AJ

[jinxedjimmy]

Update,

We never found any shorts or opens in the wiring. The problem also seemed to stop once I realized the Cruise Control switch on the steering column wiper/blinker arm was turned "on", but not activated. Once I turned it "off", it seemed to stop happening all together. Recently I had to replace the fuel pump too, and the thing was working great, but then I decided to change the serp belt, and refill the transfer case which was running low, along with an oil change. A day afterward the problem came back, and even on dry days. It seems random, but the power will sometimes just turn off for a hot second, and come back on again. Like a hiccup. Though if it happens when I am coming to a stop the truck will stall out completely. We think it might be the ignition switch, but we just cant get it to repeat the problem in the garage with the sensors on it. We are all baffled.

Thank you,
AJ

[old_master]

The ignition switches on 1997 S&T body GM vehicles has been a known problem for quite some time and can cause a multitude of seemingly un-related electrical problems to occur. Like you mentioned though, it's tough to confirm unless you are checking it while it's acting up.

[jinxedjimmy]

I am also wondering if a heavy set of keys on a key chain could also be part of the problem? It seems to happen most when I am slowing down or turning. Both would make the chain swing. Just a thought anyway.

Thank you,
AJ

[old_master]

It might be the heavy keys are causing the entire problem, but it might just be that they are moving the switch far enough to make it lose contact on certain pins in the switch. Try using just the ignition key and see what happens.

[jinxedjimmy]

It does seem like the key can move out of the start position pretty easily and does not seem to "catch" in totally. It could be very easy to just turn the key out of position. I am just going to drive it around locally and see if it happens again. Thank you.

AJ