Isuzu Rodeo TICKING NOISE !

[cat0703]

yes my does that too not always I have not noticed if it was cold or not ill chk that too

[Florsuzo]

For those who are interested here's some videos I made under various circumstances illustrating the hydraulic lifters (which open and close your valves in the cylinder heads) and the hydraulic tensioner (which closes the gap on your timing belt once the timing belt is installed):

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewto...=204843#204843

The hydraulic lifters are affected by poor oil changes and/or lack of proper oil, and, the hydraulic tensioner simply fails and doesn't take the slack out of the timing belt any longer. Mine happens to come and go, sometimes allowing more slack, sometimes not. Think of it as a shock absorber that sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.

[shoelesscajun]

I have a '95 Passport that I neglected like crazy for about 65k miles, maybe 4 or 5 oil changes the whole time. Made the clicking noise something fierce. After running one fast-acting engine cleaner (pour in, idle for 5 minutes, then change oil) and one 1500 mile cleaner, it still made racket. So I used one quart of HyPer Lube and the remainder 20-50 high-mileage (can't recall the brand, Valvoline maybe), and now it makes zero noise, and that's with a Fram high-mileage oil filter. That HyPer Lube is good stuff, thick as molasses but it definitely coats and seals.

[klvaleri]

Originally Posted by shoelesscajun

I have a '95 Passport that I neglected like crazy for about 65k miles, maybe 4 or 5 oil changes the whole time. Made the clicking noise something fierce. After running one fast-acting engine cleaner (pour in, idle for 5 minutes, then change oil) and one 1500 mile cleaner, it still made racket. So I used one quart of HyPer Lube and the remainder 20-50 high-mileage (can't recall the brand, Valvoline maybe), and now it makes zero noise, and that's with a Fram high-mileage oil filter. That HyPer Lube is good stuff, thick as molasses but it definitely coats and seals.

What auto part store did you get "HyPer Lube" from? I want to try it out. Thanks.

[shoelesscajun]

Got the HyPer Lube at Schuck's, in the engine treatment section. You can find it most anywhere out here in Washington.

[MercuryMan95]

just to shed some light on this old topic Alot of the ticking you hear in newer vehicles. I.E Chevy Colorado, Avalanche. 4.3 5.3 6.0. whatever engine including my Grand Marquis with 4.6 ford. it is generally the sound of the fuel injectors opening and closing. also know as injector tick.

[amigo-2k]

Ok ... but on Isuzu's there are TSB on the issue. It is due to dirty lifters ...

[Rmasters3]

I'll repeat: I tried everything--addititves, synthetic oil, different weights, different brands of filter, etc. Finally used a quart of Rislone with a new conventional oil change of the recommended weight, and the noise went away in 200 miles. I used Rislone thereafter and the noise was gone.

[Ovechkin88]

I have a 97 izuzu rodeo and it sounds like a go-cart wen it's running. I got it checked out and the guy said it would be $600

[345John888]

My Rodeo ticks only when cold started, and RPM's start to drop down. Then the ticking begins. And continues until warm. I've tried everything. Replace valve cover seals. No luck. New plugs. Clean Plug Wire connections, a little improvement. Different Oils. No go. After reading this forum, I've decided to try SEAFOAM in Gas, before Oil change and during Oil change.. I got better results when I used BG MOA, added to oil and then it ticked alot more, drained the Oil, put in 5W-20 and I've seen improvement. The ticking goes away before it warms up.

[bighops2000]

hate to bump such an old post but just for the record. I have run rislone, cd2, oil treatments, marvel mystery oil, tranny fluid, everything on the web forums, u name if it claims to "free sticky lifters" and "quiet noisy engines" its been in my crankcase. None of it worked for me. My rodeo gets babied, it doesnt smoke, doesnt burn oil, doesnt leak. I do all my maintenance myself and It runs great. It ticks...so what. I can live with that. its a 3.2 Liter V6 engine for cryin out loud. its going to make some noise.

[345John888]

Originally Posted by bighops2000

hate to bump such an old post but just for the record. I have run rislone, cd2, oil treatments, marvel mystery oil, tranny fluid, everything on the web forums, u name if it claims to "free sticky lifters" and "quiet noisy engines" its been in my crankcase. None of it worked for me. My rodeo gets babied, it doesnt smoke, doesnt burn oil, doesnt leak. I do all my maintenance myself and It runs great. It ticks...so what. I can live with that. its a 3.2 Liter V6 engine for cryin out loud. its going to make some noise.

My Rodeo only ticks when cold started. And I've tried everything to get rid of the Tick. Including BG MOA. You did not mention that. A couple days ago I went back to fresh oil and theres a slight tick in my engine. I'm like you, gonna have to just live with it. Isuzu owners have no choice either. Theres no Isuzu techs anymore. Dealers are scarce. Mine is a 94 and would be cheaper to just buy a newer used car such as a 2002. I'll never buy a foreign vehicle ever again. Finding a dealer has been difficult for me. Especially if you move alot.

[bighops2000]

Originally Posted by 345John888

My Rodeo only ticks when cold started. And I've tried everything to get rid of the Tick. Including BG MOA. You did not mention that. A couple days ago I went back to fresh oil and theres a slight tick in my engine. I'm like you, gonna have to just live with it. Isuzu owners have no choice either. Theres no Isuzu techs anymore. Dealers are scarce. Mine is a 94 and would be cheaper to just buy a newer used car such as a 2002. I'll never buy a foreign vehicle ever again. Finding a dealer has been difficult for me. Especially if you move alot.

you dont have to move a lot to have trouble finding a dealer. isuzu got the heck outta dodge. We'll eventually look like those idiots you see driving diahatsu where you think why doesnt he just drive that %*$ off a cliff; those went extinct decades ago. mine was blessed with an "H" in the front so i go to the honda dealer sometimes for parts. i've heard use thinner oil so it gets in the nooks and crannies....use thicker oil so it coats everything. maybe one day it will quiet down but it does beat a car payment though

[345John888]

Originally Posted by bighops2000

you dont have to move a lot to have trouble finding a dealer. isuzu got the heck outta dodge. We'll eventually look like those idiots you see driving diahatsu where you think why doesnt he just drive that %*$ off a cliff; those went extinct decades ago. mine was blessed with an "H" in the front so i go to the honda dealer sometimes for parts. i've heard use thinner oil so it gets in the nooks and crannies....use thicker oil so it coats everything. maybe one day it will quiet down but it does beat a car payment though

Glad to hear you know about the lack of Isuzu Dealers and Techs. Started my Rodeo this morning and it did not even tick. What a relief. But I know soon it will be back. I've been trying to figure out whether to sell, charity or send it to the junk yard. A ticking engine will get you into a law suit. I like my Rodeo, but its got more little issues other than ticking when cold started. Rear Washer leaks $100.00, Isuzu Generator 300.00, Windshield leaks 200.00, Right Door lock 50.00, Spare Tire Cover 200.00 (hard to get) Not many in existence. Unless the engine starts to cooperate, it goes!! ENGINE TICKING IS A BAD SIGN!!! And when it gets cold mine TICKS Loudly. Its like a Ghost, there one day and gone the next. Cant figure it out.

[bighops2000]

Engine Valve Train - Ticking Noise
BULLETIN NUMBER:
SB00-01-S009

ISSUE DATE:
SEPTEMBER 2000

GROUP:
ENGINE

TICKING SOUND FROM HYDRAULIC VALVETRAIN
(Supersedes SB00-01-S002)

NOTE : This service bulletin is being revised to update parts information.

AFFECTED VEHICLES

Some 1997 and earlier Trooper (UX) and Rodeo (UC) V6 models

SERVICE INFORMATION

Condition:
The above affected vehicles may exhibit a condition of ticking sounds coming from the valvetrain during normal operation.

Possible Cause:
One or more hydraulic lash adjusters do not fully extend due to varnish build-up inside. This condition results from exceeding the required oil and filter change intervals. Severe driving conditions require more frequent oil and filter changes. (Refer to appropriate Owner's Manual or Workshop Manual for details.)

Correction:
A typical repair for the condition may involve the replacement of the affected rocker arm(s), and rocker shaft(s). However, follow the information in this bulletin to perform an oil/filter change using 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, prior to replacing any valvetrain component.

NOTE : Although the current recommended engine oil for these engines is 10W-30 API SJ, the 0W-30 synthetic engine oil allows air in the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed out quickly and removes the varnish that is preventing hydraulic lash adjuster piston travel.


Service Procedure
1. Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter with a Genuine Isuzu oil filter, and refill the crankcase with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil.

2. With the engine warm, run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes.

^ If the ticking noise goes away, return the vehicle to the customer.

^ If the ticking noise persists, proceed with step 3.







3. Let the motor run at idle and use a stethoscope or Steel screwdriver to determine which bank is noisy. Once you have determined the location, turn the key off. (Figure 1)

4. Remove the cylinder head cover on the noisy bank.






5. Inspect each rocker arm for clearance at the valve (when the rocker is on the base circle of the cam and the valve is closed). The noisy rocker arms are the ones with clearance. (Figure 2)

NOTE : Each cylinder head has one oil pressure relief valve that controls oil pressure to its rocker arms. If all rocker arms on one cylinder head have clearance and/or the rocker arm pivot shaft is worn, then the cylinder head oil pressure relief valve may be stuck open. In this case, refer to the appropriate Workshop Manual for additional troubleshooting procedures.





6. Remove the ticking rocker arm assembly, and inspect the wear pattern of the hydraulic lash adjuster surface that contacts the valve stem (the intake rocker arm is located under the camshafts, which require timing belt removal).






7. Carefully remove the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster(s) from the Rocker Arms using your fingers. (Figure 4)

IMPORTANT : Do not damage the O-Ring on the outside of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster, or you will have to replace the entire rocker arm (the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster cannot be ordered separately). When replacing an exhaust rocker arm, replace its intermediate rocker arm too.





8. Insert a paper clip into the hole at the top of the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster and depress the spring loaded check ball, while completely pushing in the piston at the opposite end. Some traces of oil may come out of the check ball hole. (Figure 5)






9. Carefully remove and retain the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring. Spray the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster piston with carburetor cleaner to remove any varnish (while holding the piston in). (Figure 6)






10. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in new cleaning solvent; (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow the cleaning solvent to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. (Figure 7)

11. Submerge the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster in clean 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, (while depressing the check ball) pump the piston repeatedly to allow 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil to penetrate through the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. Then allow the piston to extend fully, to fill the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with oil.

12. Reinstall the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster O-Ring.

13. Lube the Rocker Arm bore that houses the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, then push the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster back into place.

14. Inspect for leaks at the check ball and piston by attempting to compress the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster without depressing the check ball (The Hydraulic Lash Adjuster should not leak or compress).

NOTE : Oil filled Hydraulic Lash Adjuster will hold its valve off the seat for several crank revolutions. This may cause the engine to run rough for a short period after starting. To prevent this, select one cylinder and bleed some oil off the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (depress the Check Ball and compress the piston 1/4 of the way down). This will allow the valve to close. Do not remove all of the oil or the valves spring and cam will collapse the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster permanently.





15. Reassemble the engine using new cylinder head cover gasket (see Parts Information) and apply some gasket seal at the corners where the cam tower gasket and cylinder meet. Torque the Cylinder head cover bolts to 8 Nm (69 lb. in) using hand tools only.

16. Start the engine and listen for noise.

17. Remind the customer, "More frequent oil changes can prevent varnish accumulation." Also recommend to use minimum oil rating of: API Service SG, but SJ is preferred