2000 Windstar 3.8 engine

[olopezm]

You don't necessarily need the engine running, for the fuel pressure test you only need to turn the key to the ON position but DON'T start the engine. That way you'll see if fuel still sprays out or only drips. The MAF thing can also be checked that way, when the van dies disconnect the sensor and see if it will start after, if it doesn't then the MAF it's ok and you have a different problem.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[drumcatjim]

I already replaced the MAF due to the 171 and 174 codes about 3 weeks ago. The fuel pressure test would only work if the van was acting up at that particular time right?

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by drumcatjim

I already replaced the MAF due to the 171 and 174 codes about 3 weeks ago. The fuel pressure test would only work if the van was acting up at that particular time right?

Sorry, you already said that but I didn't see it, let's forget about the MAF then...

The fuel pressure test (either with a fuel pressure tester or with the tip of a screwdriver) should be done before the van is acting up and while it's acting up, that way you can compare any difference on how much pressure and fuel is released.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[drumcatjim]

Wow! now I have another problem. My wife came home and said the OD light is blinking non stop. The code is P0705 Transmission range sensor circuit (PRNDL input)
Help! Can she still drive the van? the Ford manual says no.

[olopezm]

I'm not sure, but I don't think it's a good idea since the van could be in a different gear than the one you selected.

Check the connector at the top of the transmission, from where the air filter is look down and to the back, you'll see the transmission and a big black box on top of it with a connector and the shifting lever linkage attached to it. Make sure it's tight and there is no water or other fluid in it.

Did you get the Brake pressure switch TSB done?. Check this link, I've never heard of the fluid getting close to the transmission range sensor, but things can happen, you know:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=681061

Best regards,

Oscar.

[wiswind]

The Transmission Range Sensor is mounted on TOP of the transmission.
The cable that connects to the Gear select inside the car connects to this.
You can change it without going inside the transmission case.
Auto part stores often call the same part "Neutral Safety Switch"

[drumcatjim]

Ok, I changed the TRS trans. range sensor, and seems to have solved that problem. I also change my idler and tension pulleys (they were bad), but I still have a low tone rattling sound coming from near the oil pan. Has anyone had this problem? It sounds like it may be expensive. At this point I am wondering how long to keep the van going. Maybe it's time to give up before it becomes a money pit. If i have internal enging problems at 128K miiles, not sure whether to try to keep it going. It has been a fairly good van for a long time. We bought it used with 21K miles on it back in 2002.
Jim

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by drumcatjim

still have a low tone rattling sound coming from near the oil pan.

Does it sounds like a diesel engine?

If it is, then the problem might be with the upper plastic intake cover, A baffle inside breaks and you get a diesel like sound.

Best regards,

Oscar.

[drumcatjim]

Thanks for all the info! Well, i found my problem. It was torque converter trans bolts that were loose. The local shop checked it out. They were the ones to drop the trans about 6 mos ago to replace my freeze plugs. So they fixed it for free. i am happy, but now am back to diagnosing my original problem. My wife gets stuck about once every 2 weeks because the van starts, then coughs and chokes out, then stops and won't start until you wait about 1-2 hrs., then it runs perfect like nothing happened. Any chance that this is related to the other problems, and is now resolved? I guess I'll see what happens in the next month or so.
Jim

[wiswind]

It is good to hear that the Range Sensor issue is taken care of and the low rattle was just a tighten up for free job.
At this point, I would buy a new fuel pump relay and install it.
You might also consider a PCM relay.
They are not expensive and are easy to replace.
The fuel pump relay has been mentioned as a cause of the problem you are having.
The very next time this problem happens, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail.
If you have none.......then the fuel pump is intermittently not running.

Another thing to check would be the fuel cut-off switch that is located in the jack compartment......I seem to remember a post or so about that causing the same issue.
This is the switch that cuts the power to the fuel pump when you are in an accident.

Another long shot would be the battery or a battery cable connection.

However, the fuel pump is STILL on the short list......I just don't want to see you throw that repair at it and have it not solve the problem because that is $$$.
And.....there ARE a lot of possibilities for the root cause of this problem.

I have read a couple posts of people using a mallet to bump the fuel tank....which gets the fuel pump working again.

The Windstar has no sensors that monitor fuel flow or pressure, so there will be no code or value to monitor at the OBDII port to tell you if the fuel pump is not doing its job.

[lazeit]

I just had pulley noise on ou 99 WS and zeroed in on the belt tensioner and it made alot of nose go away.. Its not fun placeing but better then a water pump.