Headlights on a 95 Metro

[carpenter_jai]

These are better diagrams than the ones in Haynes. Thanks! I have wondered a few times whether there are any diagrams that just show what each wire entering and exiting the fuse box are. Also, is the junction box the one under the hood next to the relay box?

Jai

[91Caprice9c1]

Originally Posted by Hugemoth

I've modified the wiring on my 93 so that the connector and fuse box do not carry the full headlight current. Instead I put in aftermarket relays and wired them directly to the battery, through a fuse of course. Now the fusebox/connector only carry the relay coil current which is well under 1 amp.

This mod also makes the lights brighter since there is very little resistance in the circuit so the bulbs get full voltage. Before the mod I measured 11.2 volts at the bulb with engine running and system voltage at 14.2. After the mod the voltage at the bulbs is 14.2. Makes a noticable difference.

Q

Utilizing a relay for this is just absolutely brilliant. Good thinking man, why didn't I think of that? From now on, I'm going to relay the circuit when these things meltdown.

-MechanicMatt

[Woodie83]

The relay box and fuse box are under the hood and the junction block is under the dash.

[carpenter_jai]

I finally got time to try MMM's fix and it worked! I have some photos that I will post later.The mystery problem I was having with the ignition fuse blowing is gone and when I tried it started up great. The only problem is now the rear turn signals are not functioning. Neither are the rear hazards. I know they worked before and that the problem is back near the junction block.

Does anyone know of something that could make the rear turn signals not work? I took all the harnesses out of the block and hooked it all up again looking for bad connections but could see nothing.

Jai

[GM Line Rat]

Originally Posted by carpenter_jai

Does anyone know of something that could make the rear turn signals not work? I took all the harnesses out of the block and hooked it all up again looking for bad connections but could see nothing.

Jai

Turn the key to the ON position, click the turn sig arm to L, then R then check and see if your FRONT Turn sig bulbs light up and flash like their suppose too? Engage the hazard switch and check again? It's doubtful with both bulbs BUT, did you try a new bulbs in the rear Jai? Get a 12V Test light, do the the turn sig arm test again, then start at one of the Rear turn sig bulb sockets and check for voltage at the GREEN Wire, repeat at the other socket....If your getting 12V's at the wires, then bulbs are gone and need to be replaced. ALSO, The grounds for these lights and harness need to be checked to ensure their clean and making good contact? If no voltage (And front lights are flashing)....The green wire(s) need to be traced back to the front for a open or shorted wire with the 12V Test light. If the fronts DONT flash either.....I'd suspect a bad flasher unit is the culprit. (The turn signal and hazard flasher is located under the left hand side of the instrument panel near the fuse panel) You can usually locate the flasher unit, engage the flashers and touch or hear the flasher unit and tell if it's "Clicking" inside? Here's the wiring diagrams for the Turn signals and Hazards.

Turn Signals and Hazards wiring #1



Turn Signals and Hazards wiring #2

[rja87]

I know this an old thread and an old problem, but I'm having it now on my 95 Metro. I tried MrPink's method of soldering a new connection, but it didn't work for me, probably because I don't solder so well. Can anyone tell me where that yellow/brown or brown/yellow wire that runs to the headlight relay is located on the fuse box to bypass the fuse block directly to the black/white burned wire? Is it on the back of the block opposite side of the black/white connector? What exactly does it look like? Brown with yellow stripe, yellow with brown stripe, yellow with brown rings? I have a temporary fix now, but it won't last long I'm sure. Need someone smarter than I am to find this headlight relay wire. I'm thinking that bypassing the fuse block is all I can manage.

Thanks,

rja87