1/8 Scale Scratchbuilt 427 AC Cobra

[Shovel]

absolutely

I think it's safe to say that I agree with Ton.

Mark

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by Scalemodelfanatic

Garey,

This is just beautiful and spectacular work, but after seeing your 1/8 F40 project, the only conclusion is that NOTHING is to complicated or dificult for you to do...the more complicated, the easier you make it look....and as we all know, is not!!!

Is good to know that the amazing mastery of scrachtbuilding automobile accurate replicas done in the past by the great master modelers like Michael Conti,Manuel Olive Sanz and Gerard Windgrove are still alive and Extreamly well represented in your great work, and other members works shown in this forum.

Just magnificent craftmanship and can't wait to see more progress of this great project, is truly inspiring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Somehow I missed your post... Thanks for your most gracious compliments. Comparisons to the masters are appreciated, but not warranted. I have seen works by all of them and my work is nowhere near their level. Maybe someday, but I have to finish this one first and see how it looks when completed and it's a long way off. I am enjoying this build more than any other I have built and hope to see it finished in a year, maybe sooner. Thanks again for your compliments and stay tuned...

Garey

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by Shovel

absolutely

I think it's safe to say that I agree with Ton.

Mark

Thanks guys, I can't wait to get some of the "heavy" building out of the way, so I can start the fun stuff. I have to make a master of the cylinder head, so I can cast it in white metal, so I may jump off the engine for a bit and start on the suspension next. We'll see... that's the great thing about a complete scratchbuild... no instructions provided, Lol! I can build whatever, whenever...

Garey

[GETRDUN]

All i can say is HOLY CRAP!!!!!you are an artist,no dought about that..

[tony126c2]

so I can cast it in white metal,

If you are going to make a one off I would consider to make the cylinder heads from another material. I have seen a lot of casting now: WM is most of the time poor, resin is much better. But you can also use simply plastic sheet, rods etc to make a very detailed part...just some food for thoughts

Ton

[zitzit]

Hi!

I won't be original, but your work looks tremendous!

I think you wrote it before, but do you work with actual blueprints? I think there is one in the background of your bench.

Keep on posting please!!!!

Regards

Olivier.

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by zitzit

Hi!

I won't be original, but your work looks tremendous!

I think you wrote it before, but do you work with actual blueprints? I think there is one in the background of your bench.

Keep on posting please!!!!

Regards

Olivier.

Thanks Olivier, yes, I do have a set of prints I was able to secure from a Cobra forum member. They are pricey and hard to come by, so I am fortunate to have been able to get my hands on them. It has made the build both alot easier and more accurate. There are alot of brackets and such that have to be spot on for things later in the build, so having an accurate frame to base everything else on from the start makes it far easier. Plus, I have the build posted on that forum, so it needs to be right on the money or the Cobra owners will let you know, Lol! It's be very good, so far, keep watching...

Garey

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by tony126c2

If you are going to make a one off I would consider to make the cylinder heads from another material. I have seen a lot of casting now: WM is most of the time poor, resin is much better. But you can also use simply plastic sheet, rods etc to make a very detailed part...just some food for thoughts

Ton

Yes Ton, I know that there are better options, but, the heads are not too detailed and I want the white metal for the weight and proper finish and the ability to tap threads for the headers that will hold up to repeated use. I know the headers will be a tough part of the build and will require lots of trial and error fitting and re-fitting, and anything other than metal will not hold up to that. Plus the natural finish of the metal will look more like the aluminum the actual heads are made from without having to paint them, not that your Ferrari doesn't look outstanding with the multi-media parts you have made to replace the missing pieces! I will probably sand cast them, but that will depend on the results...

Garey

[tony126c2]

Originally Posted by bmwmech1

Plus the natural finish of the metal will look more like the aluminum the actual heads are made from without having to paint them

Obvious a very clear choice And your right: weight, finish are important things for the model ...but as you said: it will require a lot of trial and error ..and it is a real challenge!

Looking forward to see the first set of cylinder heads!

Ton

[Scalemodelfanatic]

Is VERY difficult not to be repetitive in compliments about this model project, FANTASTIC,WONDERFUL AND STUNNING are but a few of the words that can be used.

I have the AC Cobra book by Hanes Publishing(great color photos) and keep going back to it and marveling at these extraordinary racing machines.

The engine in it's basic shape/form already looks great!!!

May I ask a "little" favor? would you post a side by side photo with both the F-40 and Cobra chassis.....oh, I just can imagine that wonderful duo of exeptional craftmanship in scale modeling side by side......don't worry I have my oxigen mask and bottle ready and my wife is trained in CPR for the after-shock!!!!!!!!!

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by Scalemodelfanatic

Is VERY difficult not to be repetitive in compliments about this model project, FANTASTIC,WONDERFUL AND STUNNING are but a few of the words that can be used.

I have the AC Cobra book by Hanes Publishing(great color photos) and keep going back to it and marveling at these extraordinary racing machines.

The engine in it's basic shape/form already looks great!!!

May I ask a "little" favor? would you post a side by side photo with both the F-40 and Cobra chassis.....oh, I just can imagine that wonderful duo of exeptional craftmanship in scale modeling side by side......don't worry I have my oxigen mask and bottle ready and my wife is trained in CPR for the after-shock!!!!!!!!!

Your post made me laugh... too funny! I'll see if I can accommodate your request... I'll have to unpack the Ferrari, but hey, what the heck...

Thanks,

Garey

[cinqster]

Originally Posted by bmwmech1

Yes Ton, I know that there are better options, but, the heads are not too detailed and I want the white metal for the weight and proper finish and the ability to tap threads for the headers that will hold up to repeated use. I know the headers will be a tough part of the build and will require lots of trial and error fitting and re-fitting, and anything other than metal will not hold up to that. Plus the natural finish of the metal will look more like the aluminum the actual heads are made from without having to paint them, not that your Ferrari doesn't look outstanding with the multi-media parts you have made to replace the missing pieces! I will probably sand cast them, but that will depend on the results...

Garey

Looking good Garey!

Can I jump in on the casting stuff? I've had quite a lot of practice with white metal recently and have a couple of suggestions, which I hope don't sound too patronizing!

IMHO, I'd skip the sand casting bit completely...it's very trial and error + time consuming! I recommend using a high temp rubber for making moulds. I use stuff called 'R101' in the UK - I'm sure there's an equivalent over there! It's a two part rubber that sets up like an ordinary silicone product, but it takes the heat needed for white metal/pewter. It also allows you to quickly repeat the pour, if it goes horribly wrong...and it will! Making yet another sand mould takes forever, trust me on this! My best moulds using this stuff occur if a hit the mould with a flame before pouring the metal which appears to drive off the oxygen. A light covering with talc also keeps a smoother finish on the surface and bit of flux (borax) and dare I say (some pure lead) helps the metal flow with very little bubbles. One more tip with the red rubber - it appears to 'condition' with repeated heating and often gives the best results after around 5-6 previous pours...good luck man!

Oh, and I'd go for big, fat solder for the headers...gives you loads of chance to reshape as you go. Bring your granny and I'll bring the eggs next time!

[YongGun Park]

Great job !

Lot's of great stuff to learn for my work. Can't wait to see your next post.

[bmwmech1]

Originally Posted by cinqster

Looking good Garey!

Can I jump in on the casting stuff? I've had quite a lot of practice with white metal recently and have a couple of suggestions, which I hope don't sound too patronizing!

IMHO, I'd skip the sand casting bit completely...it's very trial and error + time consuming! I recommend using a high temp rubber for making moulds. I use stuff called 'R101' in the UK - I'm sure there's an equivalent over there! It's a two part rubber that sets up like an ordinary silicone product, but it takes the heat needed for white metal/pewter. It also allows you to quickly repeat the pour, if it goes horribly wrong...and it will! Making yet another sand mould takes forever, trust me on this! My best moulds using this stuff occur if a hit the mould with a flame before pouring the metal which appears to drive off the oxygen. A light covering with talc also keeps a smoother finish on the surface and bit of flux (borax) and dare I say (some pure lead) helps the metal flow with very little bubbles. One more tip with the red rubber - it appears to 'condition' with repeated heating and often gives the best results after around 5-6 previous pours...good luck man!

Oh, and I'd go for big, fat solder for the headers...gives you loads of chance to reshape as you go. Bring your granny and I'll bring the eggs next time!

Thanks for the tips! I've actually had decent success with sand casting, but you're right about quality vs. time spent on multiples... silicone is the way to go... I still have to make the master, so I'm a ways off yet, but I'm looking forward to it. Had to correct a small problem I discovered on the frame tonight. Took the better part of the evening, so no new photos, but it's right as rain, now... I'll need 1/4" diameter solder for the header tubes and then I have to be able to attach it to the sidepipes and then chrome it... I may have to go with brass rod, I think, but solder is great for headers... granny and eggs, eh? Never heard that one... do explain...

Garey

[bmwmech1]

A member on the Cobra forum, where I have this build posted also, wanted a picture of me holding the frame to get a perspective on size, so I though I'd post 2 on here as well... one of the frame and the other of the block... enjoy...





Garey