Scale finishes paint?

[patoffspyder]

Hi guys,
I used to buy Cobra Colors paint and loved it. I also bought a lots of Zero paints jars, but shipping is more expensive since I live in Canada.
I see that some people are using Scale finishes. Is it as good as Cobra Colors and Zero Paint? I was always thinning Zero Paint and Cobra Colors 50-50, can I do the same thing with Scale Finishes? I only want a jar of Nissan Ultra Yellow, so I don't want to order from England for one jar.

I live in Canada, but I can get the paint shipped to USA and bring them back home, so it's not a problem for me.

Thanks

[wadny]

I've used Scale Finishes paints a few times, and they are great. I would consider them equivalent to Zero or Cobra Colors (I've also used both of them). They also sell reducers for their paints, so you can thin them to your liking. For those of us in the US, the free shipping is nice, too. They also do a nice job with packing and shipping. I have no connection with the company, I'm just a satisfied customer.

Larry

[73superduty]

Same here. Jameston is a super guy. His paint is as good if not better as Zero and Cobra Colors.
He's very quick to reply back to any question you might have.
Great paint!
Chris

[patoffspyder]

Excellent, thanks guys.
Guess I will order more than one jar of paint then

[MPWR]

Apparently they are automotive acrylic enamels, unlike Cobra Colors and Zero (automotive acrylic lacquers). Acrylic enamels are acrylic based pigment in an enamel matrix, so they go on and behave like any enamel. This means the paint cures with air contact instead of outgasses. So you have to apply it all at once, or wait a week or two between coats. With acrylic lacquers (acrylic pigment in lacquer matrix), you can respray whenever you want. So in that sense acrylic enamel is not as convenient or forgiving as automotive lacquer.

To make a complicated story shorter, it's not the same stuff. I'm sure you can certainly get spectacular results from it, but you may have to change your techniques in applying it. This is the biggest reason I've been unenthusiastic about trying it- I'm very happy with lacquers, and don't want to bother learning a new medium.

[patoffspyder]

Thank you MPWR!
I was going to use the same thinner I am using for Cobra Colors and Zero Paint. I guess that lacquer thinner + enamel paint = big troubles
I know that Testors spray paint is enamel and I am not a big fan of these, but I will try Scale finishes paint to see.

**Edit
I took a look at the website and I think there are 2 types of paint, Basecoat and Gloss Enamel. Is Basecoats are lacquer paint, since they are flat and require clear like Zero Paint and Cobra Colors?

BASECOATS
Scalefinishes colors are solvent based Acrylic Basecoats and require a clearcoat to achieve a gloss finish.
If further thinning is required, Thin with Scalefinishes Basecoat reducer.
Air pressures will vary with different airbrushes, painting styles and temperature. I recommend around 20PSI as a starting point.

GLOSS ACRYLIC ENAMELS
Scalefinishes gloss Enamels are Automotive grade Acrylic Enamels and do not require a clearcoat.
If further thinning is required, Thin with Scalefinishes Enamel reducer.
Air pressures will vary with different airbrushes, painting styles and temperature. I recommend around 20PSI as a starting point.

[MPWR]

OK, I had missed that. Yeah I agree that the 'basecoat' is likely an acrylic lacquer- the key words being 'solvent based'. But he application guide doesn't make much sense to be. 5 min between coats and 20 min before clearcoating seems frighteningly fast.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by MPWR

5 min between coats and 20 min before clearcoating seems frighteningly fast.

You would need smelling salts if you saw how I paint (and I think Veyron is also a similar speed demon) We both enjoy those "1 session" paintjobs; basecoat, clean airbrush, clearcoat, dehydrator. Often I'll scuff that clear & then do a second round for best quality. Throw it in the dehydrator, wait 6 hours or so...ready to go

Those basecoat (flat) lacquers flash off very fast. I like to mix some clear in the final coat before going to 100% clear. As long as you don't drown it (and your primer/sealer is working properly), it should be just fine.

[Veyron]

The dehydrator revolutionized model painting...allows you to move on with your builds instead of obsessing over watching paint dry and how much mythical time should pass before the next layer.

[360spider]

With lacquer basecoats and clears, I can prime, correct, paint, and clear the body in about 40 minutes. Most of it is actually waiting for the primer to dry. I will usually paint and clear in less than 10 minutes.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by 360spider

With lacquer basecoats and clears, I can prime, correct, paint, and clear the body in about 40 minutes. Most of it is actually waiting for the primer to dry. I will usually paint and clear in less than 10 minutes.

It still surprises me how many people are firmly rooted in the dark ages when it comes to painting.

It's probably more due to the fact that they're not building often enough to get comfortable with the pace & techniques that those who do build often can accomplish. That's not a cut, that's just an observation-I love showing people how to speed things up. When we do modelpaloozas & 24 hour builds (as a group), hands-on in-person how-to's help people see how quickly things can happen...and have little or no affect on ultimate quality.

[tonioseven]

I've used Scalefinishes paint several times and I'm impressed with the quality and ease of use. The clear coat compliments the paint quite nicely. Somewhere there's a completed thread for a '58 Chevrolet Impala I buit and I used Scalefinishes paint & clear on. I was more than pleased with it. By the way, it was primed, painted and cleared in a day and a half; that was a few months ago and no problems yet.
sam-r350 UP.Browser/6.2.3.8 (GUI) MMP/2.0

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

It still surprises me how many people are firmly rooted in the dark ages when it comes to painting.

Different philosophies, I suppose.

I used to believe/assume that body painting could/should be done in an hour or so. I painted this way for a number of years- and simply hated it. It wasn't any fun. Painting bodies was a miserable chore, which often ruined an otherwise perfectly good hobby. Then I learned to slow down and relax, and that there was absolutely nothing to be gained by doing it quickly (the slow onset of maturity for me?). Suddenly I discovered that I could easily and consistently get perfect results, with very little effort. All it took was the mental flexibility to apply time and patience. And then I discovered that I really enjoy painting this way. Painting went from the thing I hated most in modeling to one of the things I look forward to most. This hobby has been very useful for me in learning to relax and enjoy what I'm doing. I honestly can't see appeal in rushing it.

So I can't really start and finish a build in 24hrs. I can't start and finish a whole pizza in 5 minutes, either. Or maybe I could if I tried- but don't see the reason to do so. Not to cut on anyone who enjoys their hobby differently.

[freakmech]

Scalefinishes.com is a very nice paint that I dont have to order from over seas. He can also color match anything you dont see on the site.

As far as the other debate goes, Im in the speed realm. I build almost exclusively race cars. A 2 day paint job keeps me from the fun of decalling. I Primer, dehydrate, Base Color, dehydrater, Second coat, dehydrate, Base Clear for decals, dehydrate, all in about 25 minutes. I can be decalling in an hour if I dont thing I need to use Micro-sol. Micro-sol can stain the clear if the clear hasnt dried properly. Microset on the other hand seems just fine.

[stryfe101]

Thanks for this thread guys, I just ordered some Ultimate Black Opal from them and its my first order. Makes me feel better that i've read some good reviews.

I guess its time to get a dehydrator too then..

Gray