New turbo from the junkyard - Page 3

vanilla gorilla · #31 01-18-2010, 10:15 PM

That may work, I was just trying to let you know you may have another option.

I was wrong with the part numbers they were 350086 and 350087

SilvrEclipse · #32 01-19-2010, 07:35 AM

I see what your saying. I will have to look into that some. If I do put master in there with a longer stoke the pedal will end up being moved up higher to push more fluid. Which may work also but Ill have to do some calculations to see if it would be enough to release the clutch. The stock slave now moves ~.350", I need ~.500". So its a good bit more. But its deffinately worth looking into. Thanks man

vanilla gorilla · #33 01-19-2010, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

I see what your saying. I will have to look into that some. If I do put master in there with a longer stoke the pedal will end up being moved up higher to push more fluid.

Exactly. The pedal on my GST is soo much better than my spyder, and the only really thing I can contribute that to is the difference in the master's since the rest of the setups on the cars are basically the same.
I am going to get a used Turbo master cylinder, put new seals in it, and put it in my Spyder, I really think that will fix my drag problem.

david-b · #34 01-19-2010, 11:23 AM

Any chance on getting all this stuff figured out by this weekend? My clutch isn't fully right so was going to rebleed, but then thinking just to replace the slave since I'm in there. I'm personally fine with a heavy pedal as I know where it's at.

VG... do you remember what sizes the fittings are to replace to SS? I've got a ton of SS line and may as well swap that out too while I'm in there.

SilvrEclipse · #35 01-19-2010, 05:22 PM

Dave you dont need to worry about using a different master/slave cylinder. If yours isint releasing all the way you probably have air in the line and it needs to be rebleed like you said. Upgrading to the SS line is also a good idea. At one point when my car got hot the clutch line would expand under pressure and the clutch would no release. So if the master/slave or line haven't been replaced recently it could be any of those. Hopefully bleeding will take care of the problem tho. Now for fittings on the clutch line I think you are better off buying one. I think mine was like $20, the clutch line uses a flare fitting and a banjo on the slave.

vanilla gorilla · #36 01-19-2010, 07:14 PM

Yea I just bought the stainless line kit off extremepsi. Its for a GST though. On my red car I just replaced the rubber section with stainless. But on my grey car I replaced from the master to the slave in stainless.

ned032002 · #37 01-20-2010, 12:21 AM

My car already had the ACT2600 so the pedal was already a bit stiff. But when I replaced the slave and master cylinder, also installed ss clutch line, the pedal was a lot like a brake pedal. This one time I drove my buddies v6 Sebring w/ a 5 speed. I thought there was something wrong with his clutch because it was like pushing in the gas pedal, felt like nothing was there. I drove his car for the weekend because he wasn't use to driving in busy traffic and we were going to a concert that weekend. The day we got back, I hoped in my car and I thought something was wrong with my clutch pedal because of all the resistance I had forgot about.

^not really relevant but hey, thought I'd share anyway. Didn't proof read either so hope you had fun

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