Ned's 91 GSX

[ned032002]

I don't know what I'm going to do yet but from what I've read is that you don't want to just tap in because it could cause interference in the signal. I'm going to read a lot more before it goes down but it doesn't hurt to prepare. Thanks dave

[ned032002]

I guess my biggest concern was at what point in the factory wiring should I tap in? Sorry for double posting but my phone won't let me edit or qoute posts.

[SilvrEclipse]

Do not tap into the wire, what does pin 15 do? Is it the factory O2 signal that your replacing?

[ned032002]

On ecm wiki it says to use pin 15 and on vfaq it says that pin 15 is the EGR Temp sensor. I'll just connect to this one when I do the install.

[SilvrEclipse]

Do you have an EGR temp sensor on the car? But yea dont just tap into the wire or you may get some interference with your readings and it could even damage the ECU or the WB controller.

Back to your catchcan, do you think its coming out the intake side because of the oil sloshing around in there? Does leak oil right after you empty it? I had some issues with this when I had mine and I put some steel wool in there to help keep the oil from sloshing around to much. I dont recall whether it did actually fix the problem. Im sure it cant hurt tho.

[ned032002]

From what I see on vfaq, the EGR temp sensor was used on CA cars only, but I have no fact to say that's true.

About the catch can, I never saw oil run out of the can and I couldn't hear oil inside the can but it's obvious that oil was once in it. Well when I checked the intake I could see where the oil had been running through it, so I just followed where it came from and the vacuum line went to the catch can. It was sucking enough oil to cause smoke out the exhaust, so who knows how much made it past the catch can. I'm going to buy a catch can in the next couple weeks and give it another shot. I will put something in the bottom of the can to stop oil from splashing around in the can.

Also a couple more questions. I need to relocate the oil cooler (right box in pic) because where the hot side of the FMIC will run, there's not enough room for the cooler. I'm going to move it to about where the SMIC was at. My question is besides running new oil lines to the passenger side, is it not good to run oil lines that far? I guess what I'm trying to ask is will I have oil pressure issues because of the added distance the oil needs to move? Also I now realize why I was leaking oil in the area around the oil filter and oil cooler, all the clamps were loose enough to spin!!...luckily none of them came off during hard driving!





Also note the power steering coolant lines, in the searches of read they say I need to loop the oil coolant lines because they too are in the way of the FMIC. Do I just cut the line and loop the 2 lines with a rubber hose and clamp them?

Also I'm thinking about not doing the dump tube...thoughts?

[SilvrEclipse]

Do you have an oil pressure gauge inside the car? I think it would be fine to extend the lines but it would be nice to know the oil pressure just to make sure you have plenty. When I added my entire oil cooler setup I only lost about 8-10psi of oil pressure so I think you will be fine.

Not sure on the PS lines, I have heard of people just looping them but never have dont it myself so Im not real sure on that. Also that dump is pretty close to your oil lines. You should just put a small extension on that pipe. That way you dont have to buy another one

[ned032002]

If you saw the papertowel roll guy on the valve cover, I was using that to sketch out the extension but when I was doing it I too noticed that it was way too close to the oil lines. I don't know if I really want to put the dump tube on. I was thinking about running the dump to the lower left side of the down pipe that way it stays clear of the oil lines but if I do that then it puts it more directing towards the oil pan where the oil return from the turbo is at. IDK what I want to do. Is it worth doing the dump tube or not? I want a clean install look but this thing looks hideous. IDK, thinking out loud I guess and I don't have an oil pressure gauge other than the stock one which is pretty hard to figure out if a difference occurs in pressure. I figure that with the move I'll add like 6 or 7 feet to the cooler lines. I might be able to install the cooler in between the FMIC and the radiator but I don't know if it will get enough flow in there. I don't want to screw myself is what I'm basically trying to say.

I've been rocking the glowshift gauges here's a oil pressure gauge and sending unit from them that I may buy, thoughts?
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white...ure-gauge.aspx

[ned032002]

Would anyone be so kind to take a picture of the WBO2 sensor location on your cars? Just trying to get an idea at what I'm going to be doing with it when the time comes.

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

I have heard of people just looping them

From what I've read, the cooler just needs to be pulled so I see a spot where I can just unclamp the lines from the cooler and put in a small piece of line in it's place to loop it. Will take pics of before and after tonight when I plan to do it.

[ned032002]

Just got done doing the loopy loop with the PS line, also pulled out the hood release support as directed. I used a piece of the PS cooler as the piece to loop the lines. I also zip-tied the line to another line so it doesn't move around. Couple pics for your enjoyment.

[SilvrEclipse]

Looks good man, so why did you want to remove the PS?

[ned032002]

The short route for the FMIC runs through the hole that the PS cooler uses. Most of people that do the Short route do this since it has little to no effect on PS temps, it would really effect it if I did AutoX but that's not going to happen. Everyday use with that modification isn't a bad thing. I think I might put the radiator back in just because now I have the surrounding area clear, I'd like to put it back in so I can get started on running the oil cooler lines.

[vanilla gorilla]

Thats cool that you got rid of the cooler line. I cant tell what exactly is going on in the picture of how you looped the lines though.

[ned032002]

In this picture you can see the 2 lines marked with white spots and also you can see where I removed the clamps from the lines that connected to the cooler.


I used this small piece of the cooler to connect the two ends


and here it is looped with the cooler removed

[david-b]

Nice work there. Make sure those zip ties are going to be strong enough to hold it together.

I agree with Silver, just add an extension on the WG dump tube. Goto NAPA or something, and pick up some flexible exhaust tubing. Will clamp right on and then you can dump it where ever then.

For the WB, here's where mine is. You can see my narrow and WB both installed facing toward the block. This is from the passengerside. Granted, you have a different motor and setup, but it works the same. I believe you want it no more than 24" away from the turbo, but no less than 6" IIRC. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.