Strange effect and problem with 2K clear

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by kaho

There are thinners for 2K clears?

Yes, except they are called "reducers" and are available at automotive paint stores. (Except in countries where all non-waterborne paints are outlawed. But I'm not sure whether there are any such countries yet.) Reducers are used to thin all urethane paints. If you can't find a jobber in your area, you might be able to wangle some medium or low-temp reducer from a body shop.

Dupont and other manufacturers don't recommend the use of reducers with 2K clears. I believe this is because thinning weakens the coating and makes the finish less weather-resistant - not something we need to worry about. In my experience, thinning works just fine and is necessary because un-thinned 2K clear looks like syrup on the car and is too thick to spray unless you have a giant nozzle.

SkylineFan is absolutely right that 2K does not strip. Single-part urethane touch-up paint is easier to remove - not easy, but easier than 2K clear.

Ddms

[Macio4ever]

Thanks again for yours answers!

One more question. I am going to respray with 2K. The surface is already sandend down and the question is:
Can I lay down just one wet layer or follow the procedure: mist coat, 5 minute brake, wet coat?

[Didymus]

If the 2K is thinned, I'd start with the mist coat. If it's too wet, the thinner could damage the color coat.

[Macio4ever]

I have tried 2K on FW10 again with 15% thinner added. I used proper Dupont thinner (for all bases and clears), body dry like Sahara and clean like House MD sense of humor

Effect? Still super small craters/holes. I have excluded surface contamination as I have cleared one part which has been painted TS26 before and never touched.

Maybe thinning is not good for this clear? Maybe drying temp is too high?

Maybe FW10 is cursed and I will never achieve decent clear coat?

This is my second approach to 2K and I thought that it would be much easier than using regular clear. Now, it looks exactly opposite...

[Didymus]

Sounds like some sort of bad chemistry between the Duxone and whatever 2K clear you're using. Guess I'd try Duxone 2K clear.

Other than that, I'm plumb out of ideas except to forget about 2K clear and use U-POL or Tamiya TS13 synthetic lacquer clear coat. I love the results I get from U-POL, but it's not available everywhere. In the U.S., you can order it online at Sam Ditchek & Sons in Brooklyn, NY. But it's made in the UK, so it ought be be available in Europe.

Ddms

[Macio4ever]

Well, me too - no ideas...

I used Dupont Duxone clear and Dupont Duxone thinner, so should be good.
Last idea I have is that I used samples of clear/hardener I got from paint seller. IF in the jar is defferent clear than Duxone... that would explain strange effects.

[Didymus]

I didn't notice you live in Warsaw. So does Klutz, and he said he can't get U-POL there. I live in the U.S. and order it on-line from Ditchek.

Ddms

[Macio4ever]

Some good news. I kept model in drybooth overnight and heat it up few times. The bad effect has dimnished, so probably I will just polish it up.
Next time I will use fresh clear and will report the effects

[matador88]

ok guys, so do we have some general rules how the crates are appearing? too much thinner, too thick clear via small nozzle etc..?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by matador88

ok guys, so do we have some general rules how the crates are appearing? too much thinner, too thick clear via small nozzle etc..?

General rules
Rule #1: There are no rules
Rule #2: See rule #1 above

[Macio4ever]

Right you are, Steven!

Anyway, I will test fresh opened can of Dupont clear both thinned and not. Will post results hoping it will give some directions...