Turned aluminum (???) or P/E bolt heads?

[racer93]

Originally Posted by AAlmeida

Daniel looking for Calibre35, they make resin rives with washers as you want.

I finally found a pic of these--they look awesome! Does anyone know where I can find these, preferably in the US, but it doesn't have to be...

Daniel

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by racer93

Have you used these?

Not yet. But I don't see what could go wrong.

Ddms

[cinqster]

Just a thought, but if you are looking at enough metal hardware for fully detailing say six 1/12th kits, the cash outlay would get you a long way to owning a small Chinese milling machine and tilting rotary table. With this combination you can make any size fittings you require.

You will not believe how cool it is to knock out your own pieces and you're no longer at the mercy of long waiting lists for parts.

Andy Matthews made his own BTW!

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by racer93

Could you tell me a couple of things--First, are the pieces you used full bolts, or just the "heads"? Second, what sizes were used? I take it the brass were the SH and the other were the RB motion stuff?

Yes, brass is SH and aluminium is RBM.

Both kinds have stems. The part was drilled out with a pin vice as in the photo below, the stems cut to an appropriate length and them fixed in place with a drop of C/A glue from behind.

]


I cannot remember what size I used but that information isn't going to be very useful to you anyway on a 1/12 kit

[Didymus]

Is there any particular reason why parts that will be painted need to be metal?

The Tichy parts cost pennies compared to the metal ones. I haven't seen the nut/bolt castings except on the Tichy website, but the rivets I received from them look great under magnification. They do have stems and they cost only $2.50 for 200 pieces. At prices like that, their stuff certainly seems to be worth a look.

Ddms

[racer93]

Originally Posted by Didymus

Is there any particular reason why parts that will be painted need to be metal?

The Tichy parts cost pennies compared to the metal ones. I haven't seen the nut/bolt castings except on the Tichy website, but the rivets I received from them look great under magnification. They do have stems and they cost only $2.50 for 200 pieces. At prices like that, their stuff certainly seems to be worth a look.

Ddms

Absolutely. Through one of the other members here, I found Calibre 35, an armour detailing place in the Czech Republic that has similar resin nuts and bolts. However, their cost is $19 for 360. Hmm. I think I may place an order with Tichy. Their stuff is resin, right?

Daniel

[racer93]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

I cannot remember what size I used but that information isn't going to be very useful to you anyway on a 1/12 kit

Sure it is! All you have to do is multiply by 2 and you get the approximate 1/12 size...

Daniel

[Baxter!]

Or one can try here-->http://www.smallparts.com/b/16409981...AF&pf_rd_t=201

They have super small rivets too as well as miniature springs and threaded rod

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by racer93

Sure it is! All you have to do is multiply by 2 and you get the approximate 1/12 size...

Daniel

...or you can take the 1/1 measurement and divide it by 12 to get an accurate size for your scale bolts

[racer93]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

...or you can take the 1/1 measurement and divide it by 12 to get an accurate size for your scale bolts

Seriously? Is that how it works?

Unfortunately, I don't have access to F1 collections, so the other will have to do...

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by racer93

Their stuff is resin, right?

They're cast styrene on sprues. The whole sprue can be painted - a nice convenience if you plan to paint them all the same color. Or even Alclad them. The shaft part of each rivet is .015, I believe.

I have two .030" sprues of 200 each. I think that's about .28 mm. That seems about right for small rivets in 1/24.

I'm building an ancient Wells Finecast kit of Graham Hill's BRM P57 (1962) Formula One car. The metal body casting has no rivets and very few panel lines, so I'm adding lines, rivets and Dzus fasteners from Model Car Garage.

Ddms

[racer93]

Originally Posted by Didymus

They're cast styrene on sprues. The whole sprue can be painted - a nice convenience if you plan to paint them all the same color. Or even Alclad them. The shaft part of each rivet is .015, I believe.

I have two .030" sprues of 200 each. I think that's about .28 mm. That seems about right for small rivets in 1/24.

I'm building an ancient Wells Finecast kit of Graham Hill's BRM P57 (1962) Formula One car. The metal body casting has no rivets and very few panel lines, so I'm adding lines, rivets and Dzus fasteners from Model Car Garage.

Ddms

What about seam lines (or mold release lines, or whatever they're called)? Are they hard to get rid of, being that small?

Regardless, I'm going to try the 1mm hex nut with washer to see. $2.50 can't hurt!

Daniel

[Didymus]

Looking through both my Optivisor and a large magnifying glass, the Tichy rivet heads and shafts appear to be perfectly smooth.

On a related subject, I also have a PE sheet of rivets, disks and washers. Those PE rivets don't have shafts. I've tried attaching them to a flat, smooth surface with the best glue I know of - Gorilla Super Glue - but they still fall off if you look at them sideways. I supposed that situation could be improved by clearcoating over them. Or maybe by setting them over little drilled holes filled with glue. But I'm skeptical if there's any real solution.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to using the Tichy rivets, since they will definitely stay put. I don't want to swamp them in paint, so I want to apply the next-to-final color coat to the body before drilling the holes and attaching the rivets and MGC Dzus fasteners.

Ddms

[racer93]

Originally Posted by Didymus

Looking through both my Optivisor and a large magnifying glass, the Tichy rivet heads and shafts appear to be perfectly smooth.

On a related subject, I also have a PE sheet of rivets, disks and washers. Those PE rivets don't have shafts. I've tried attaching them to a flat, smooth surface with the best glue I know of - Gorilla Super Glue - but they still fall off if you look at them sideways. I supposed that situation could be improved by clearcoating over them. Or maybe by setting them over little drilled holes filled with glue. But I'm skeptical if there's any real solution.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to using the Tichy rivets, since they will definitely stay put. I don't want to swamp them in paint, so I want to apply the next-to-final color coat to the body before drilling the holes and attaching the rivets and MGC Dzus fasteners.

Ddms

Is the "sheet" from SMS? I have some that are on a rubber backing that work well with a thin CA glue. I've never had them fall off. Maybe try a thin CA, applied with a thin wire (like piano wire)? That may help...

Thanks for all your help. I'm trying some of the Tichy NBWs. Rivets don't do what I want. I'm looking to replicate stuff on valve covers, etc. Once I get started on the ferrari, I'll post pics.

Daniel