95 Camry Won't Start

[Daniel M. Dreifus]

Sounds like the car ran with only a slight miss until the distributor wiring harness was changed - after which it ran not at all.
I'd be double checking that harness, or replacing again. Could be it's not exactly the right part for that engine, or was damaged even if new.
If it ran before replacing the distributor wiring harness and now it does not run - focus your attention there.
The factory service manual does list the function of each wire. One is to count engine revolutions for example.
There is also a Calif. and Federal version of the distributor, so there may be differences in the wiring harness even if the connector is similar or even identical.
One more idea:
Check the wires for continuity.
When repairing the wiring at the trunk hinge for example, my wiring looked fine on the outside, but the inner strands were broken from flexing.

[dgrego55558]

I've matched that wire colors from old dist to new (used) dist pig tail go to the same spot on the dist pick up module. I checked continuity from the connector on the new pig tail where it connects to the dist all the way back to the ecm harness connector no breaks in any of the four wires. Fuel pressure is @ 44 psi so no problem there and I checked the computer for codes but no codes. I've checked the dist pick up but it checks out within specs. Maybe the used ecm I bought on ebay is no good. I might have to take it to a shop and pay them for 2 or 3 hrs diagnostic time but there going to tell me it needs a new dist $147.00 (Reman) to $300.00 (new) or ecm $366.00 damned if you do damned if you don't.

[dgrego55558]

I think I might have figured it out. When Daniel said to go back to the harness I checked the continuity from pig tail to ecm and all was fine so i went back to the wiring diagram and there are two wire labeled NCA instead of color coded. One of those apparently wraps around the outside of the other four wires. Another the wire the diagram shows going from the distributor to the coil labeled same as the other NCA. When I changed the pig tail There was only 4 wires going at the distributer but I did notice a wire with no insulation a little farther up in the harness which which reminded me of coxaxel cable tv wire strands. Anyway if I decided to buy a harness and it works or don't I'll post the outcome.

[JennyDee]

I pulled out my Haynes Manual and tried to understand the wiring diagram for the control system and reference the distributor. I don't have my 4 cylinder 95 Camry to check, but the diagram in the manual shows those R L B Y wires being shielded which is what you maybe seeing as "coax" type wire. Wish I could give you a solution to the no start problem.

[dgrego55558]

I thought that might have been the problem but went back and back probed those wires at the ecm & they were right in specs so right back at the beginning.

[JennyDee]

I beleive someone mentioned the Coolant temperature sensor is this thread. From what I read in the manual, it mentioned that damage to this sensor will effect the operation of the entire fuel injection system. Reference was 2200 -2700 ohms cold and 280-350 ohms hot on the sensor terminals. I think the 5 volts is measured on the harness with the key in the ON position. Not sure. Maybe someone else would be able to comment if the CTS would cause a no start condition.

[dgrego55558]

I replaced the CTS a few weeks before it broke down as I was having a no start when the engine was warm but I'll go back and check it and check the harness to the CTS.

[dgrego55558]

Any body have access to a professional repair manual or knowledge of Camry's. I was checking the ecm pin voltages for the IAC system it said to check the ISCC, ISCO voltage to to ground. I found that one (ISCO) of the two wires had the specified voltage 9-12 volts and the other had 0.60 volts. I'm a little lost as the diagnostic chart doesn't say whether I'm supposed to check the two wires individualy or am I supposed to jump the two wires together then check for voltage to ground ? That doesn't make since to me. The diagnostic chart never seperates the two wires it always mentiones the two as below. Any body have any idea ?

ISCC (A-9)
- E01 (A-13) STD VOLTAGE 9-14 IG switch on
ISCO (A-10)

[somick]

Originally Posted by dgrego55558

Any body have access to a professional repair manual or knowledge of Camry's.

Try www.camrystuff.com

[dgrego55558]

I have Mitchell & Motor I was just wondering if some else had one or could look at the same site and give me a opinion about the voltage but i thought about it and the computer woundn't give a signal to close and open at the same time so I really don't knopw why both books say to check it the way I previously posted as you would signal to each at different times. I received a voltage reading of .60 on the closed side at the ecm. I checked the IAC with 12 volts at each of the two sides and it worked like it's supposed to. It will just barely start and run for a for seconds if I advance the distributor to the max then it dies.

[dgrego5555]

Originally Posted by dgrego55558

1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 Automatic 200000 miles w/ca emissions.

I have a 95 Camry that won't start. It first started with hesitation when taking off from a stop and then progressed to wouldn't start when hot after sitting for over 10 minutes. If you started it up right away when hot hit would start but not after sitting. I replaced the temp sending unit and that seemed to cure that problem. I still had a engine miss. I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches. I cleaned my throttle body and egr. I checked my ignition coil and it was close to resistance limit so i replaced it. After replacing the coil it wouldn't start. I found that i had a broken wire at the harness connector at the distributor. I replaced that and it still won't start.

I have fuel at the right pressure getting to the plugs, The plugs are firing and I have 150 psi compression in all 4 cylinders. I have check the engine timing to make sure the rotor is at number 1 when on the compression stroke. I have back probed the ecm and every single test is within specs (map, igniter & distributor pickup).

It will start but just barely like it's not hitting on all cylinders and will die. I even jumped the diagnostic connector but to avail. I back fires and acts like it's out of time. Any help would appreciated.

I got the Camry to start and run by removing the hold down bolt and advancing the timing beyond hold down point. I checked the cam position and the TDC and the valve timing is dead on. I have checked the distributor and comes out in specs and have tried another ECM I purchased from Ebay still does the same thing will only run with the timing advanced. The distributor is installed correctly with the rotor is pointing down to the #1 on the cap. Any ideas anyone ?

[GSS123]

Just wondering is there a worm gear on the cam that could be mating up incorrectly to the distributor? I never had one apart so this is just a wild guess.

glad you posted back on your progress.

[jdmccright]

Looking through all the posts, and revewing the inspection procedure for the spark test, the only things remaining is to replace the igniter and then the distributor.

BTW, there is no worm gear. The distributor shaft end is keyed to the end of the primary camshaft and is offset to prevent installing it 180° out of phase.

Barring all of this, could it be possible that the EFI or other fuse has blown during all this electrical probing and wire checking? Truly perplexing....

[dgrego5555]

It will start and run when you remove the hold down bolt and advance the distributor past the point where the bolt goes thru to hold the distributor. I took a distributor out of a 93 Camry that has the coil in the distributor (my coil is external ) and ran wire from my coil pig tail to the coil in the distributor. any way it did the same thing crank but wouldn't start and if i step on the gas it backfires. i tried advancing the new (used) distributor but couldn't go as far as the other because it hit the water housing as it's bigger and like the other it would almost start but backfire exactly the the other. theonly thing im left with is either the ecm i bought from ebay is bad in the same spot my original is or it's something to do with the distributor pig tail. i have check contiuity between the pig tail back to the ecm for all four wires all check out fine.

[RIP]

Originally Posted by dgrego5555

It will start and run when you remove the hold down bolt and advance the distributor past the point where the bolt goes thru to hold the distributor.

To me that screams timing. When you max+ the distributor adjustment, what does the timing read using a timing light? If it's running it should read somewhere around 10 BTDC. Beyond that, I'm stumped. You say the marks are aligned and the rotor is pointing at #1. What else is there? Try confirming #1 is at TDC the old fashion way. You can't put your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole so connect a compression gauge and make sure the pressure maxes at or near TDC as you rotate the engine using a breaker bar on the crank. When the pressure is maxed the timing marks should be at least close to aligned. See if that reveals anything. Maybe the crank or cam sprocket has slipped. Not sure if that can even happen.