95 Camry Won't Start

dgrego55558 · #1 03-20-2009, 09:27 AM

1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 Automatic 200000 miles w/ca emissions.

I have a 95 Camry that won't start. It first started with hesitation when taking off from a stop and then progressed to wouldn't start when hot after sitting for over 10 minutes. If you started it up right away when hot hit would start but not after sitting. I replaced the temp sending unit and that seemed to cure that problem. I still had a engine miss. I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches. I cleaned my throttle body and egr. I checked my ignition coil and it was close to resistance limit so i replaced it. After replacing the coil it wouldn't start. I found that i had a broken wire at the harness connector at the distributor. I replaced that and it still won't start.

I have fuel at the right pressure getting to the plugs, The plugs are firing and I have 150 psi compression in all 4 cylinders. I have check the engine timing to make sure the rotor is at number 1 when on the compression stroke. I have back probed the ecm and every single test is within specs (map, igniter & distributor pickup).

It will start but just barely like it's not hitting on all cylinders and will die. I even jumped the diagnostic connector but to avail. I back fires and acts like it's out of time. Any help would appreciated.

somick · #2 03-20-2009, 11:19 AM

It looks like you have covered almost everything!

Still have some questions: how does vacuum gauge needle behave? Where and how does it move? It could point out either to bad/broken valves, clogged catalytic converter, etc.
Another question would be: have you checked compression?

Sam

dgrego55558 · #3 03-20-2009, 11:46 AM

I have 150 psi in all 4 cyls. When it was running the vacuum gauge only fluctuated by 1 to 2 which indicated a ign miss which i already knew. a bad valve would have gave more fluctuation. I have Mitchel & Motors manuals and have gone thru every test listed but to no avail. I have orderd a used ecm from ebay so i'll try that when it arrives but i have my doubts. I missing somthing just dont know what. I have fuel, fire, compression and timing at the right spot but just wont run.

RIP · #4 03-21-2009, 02:48 AM

That new ECM is probably your best bet right now. Only other thing that comes to mind based on what you've posted is your no start problem started with changing the coil. You say the new coil is producing spark. Is it a strong bluish spark? If you haven't yet try putting the old coil back in.

You say it backfires. Is that out the exhaust or up front? If it's up front out the intake manifold it usually means there's a lean condition. Out the exhaust usually means a rich condiition. At least that's what I've read.

As somick said, you've touched all the bases. I'd be scratchin my head too. Might be something in the FSM accessable at the top of the forum in the "Factory Service Manuals" thread. Bump that against your Mitchels manual and see if anything stands out.

dgrego55558 · #5 03-22-2009, 03:35 PM

I changed the ecm but still wont stay running. I blocked off the egr but still wont stay running. If I advance the distributor it will start with my foot on the gas and get up to about 2000 rpms for a few seconds but not quite right then dies popping back thru the throttle body. I'm at a loss.

jdmccright · #6 03-27-2009, 09:45 AM

A few things I didn't see mentioned:

1) Cap and rotor terminals. Are they nice and clean or are they encrusted with oxidation?

2) Spark plugs. Are they new or old? What brand? NGK are the recommended ones in here though I've had good experience with Autolite platinums. Stay away from all Bosch Pt plugs. Their design is not adjustable for gap as they wear.

3) PCV valve. Check for a sticking or plugged valve.

4) IAC valve. Clean it & check for proper operation (NOT BY PRESSING THE PLUNGER DOWN WITH YOUR THUMB...it will break)

5) EGR valve and pipe assembly. Again, clean & check for proper operation.

6) Throttle body assembly. Use some carb cleaner and tooth brush to remove any build up from the TB walls, butterfly plate, and mechanical linkages.

After these, I'd start looking at the crank and camshaft position sensors.

It may be worthwhile to see if your car has an OBD II diagnostic port...if it was built late enough in 1995 you may be in luck. With this, you could check the live data from the engine sensors.

Hope this helps!

dgrego55558 · #7 03-27-2009, 10:29 AM

The cap,rotor & wires are brand new bought them after the problem started. The plugs were put in last summer and are NGK. I have pulled the plugs and they are good. The plugs are firing I took them out and connected them, to there corresponding plug wire and they all fired. The pcv valve put in last summer. I took IAC and EGR off and cleaned them but I might have done something wrong becayse before that it ran with just a little miss. But after putting avery thing back and it not starting is when i found one of the wires to the connector at the distributor was broken. I replaced it but still wont start. I went back and tried blocking off the egr to the intake but no change. I changed the ECM but still the same thing. It is OBD 1. It does not have seperete cam & crank sensors the distribtor takes care of that. I have taken the throttle body back off but nothing that stands out. I ahve Tried interchanging the new ign coil and old one but no differance. I will try to change the throttle body and see what happens.

jdmccright · #8 03-27-2009, 11:06 AM

Thanks for clarifying those items. Next, I'd check the fuses for the ignition and injectors. Then I'd check all the engine grounds. Hmmm, what else.... Timing belt may have jumped a tooth and now the cam & crank are out of sync.

You could unbolt the exhaust downpipe at the header to see if a clogged cat is causing it.

You mentioning that the car ran better before you cleaned the IAC and EGR would lend belief that one of those isn't working correctly now. To the point of a no-start? I wouldn't think so, but perhaps. I mentioned it but wasn't specific, the IAC is a servo-actuated valve. Any pressure exerted on the pintle can break the internal moving mechanism. And it cannot be immersed in cleaner. The EGR is vacuum operated, but a bear to clean it to any good effect.

If I think of anything else, I'll chime in again. Good luck!

dgrego55558 · #9 03-27-2009, 11:42 AM

The EGR including the down tube were good & clear and the EGR killed the engine when vacuum was applied when I took them off. It acts like it's out of time that's what's killing me but I have repeatedly checked the crank shaft TDC position vs Cam shaft gear timing marks to where the rotor is and it's dead on. It starts when I put foot on the pedal when I start it but it does not quite fire up like it's not hitting on all cylinders all the way and then dies. I have thought a vacuum leak but I can't find any thing.

JennyDee · #10 03-28-2009, 12:10 PM

Have you tried spraying ether directly into the throttle body? That would take out and issue of the fuel pump not working correctly or the charcoal canister limiting fuel delivery. If all 4 cyclinders start firing then you got it. You have covered a lot of electrical testing and seem to be getting a solid orange spark. I had a minor leak in the fuel filler down tube on my 95 Camry 2.2, ( rust) which seemed to have caused the fuel pump to fail or just be too weak. The ether pointed me into the fuel pump and down tube replacment issue.

Keep us posted
Jen

dgrego55558 · #11 03-28-2009, 01:50 PM

I did try that awhile back but I'll try it again but fuel pressure was at the max pressure when it was running. I'll go back and measure it again see what I get.

DFBonnett · #12 03-30-2009, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgrego55558

before that it ran with just a little miss. But after putting every thing back and it not starting is when i found one of the wires to the connector at the distributor was broken. I replaced it but still wont start.

At this point I'd back probe that wire to verify that there is not a break internally and thus not apparent on visual inspection. BTDT. Have you checked the fuse for the FI?

GSS123 · #13 03-31-2009, 08:47 AM

One of the best threads we've had in a long time. Keep us posted, I really look forward to what the final answer is to this mystery. I was going to say cam sensor but you had that covered.

dgrego55558 · #14 03-31-2009, 09:04 AM

I'm probably going to try a another distributor even thou the the existing one checks out with a ohm meter maybe the air gap is bad I haven't checked that one but doesn't seem likely.

jdmccright · #15 03-31-2009, 11:14 AM

I'd recheck the new ignition coil and the connector you repaired.

Based on past experience, personal as well as in the forum, a coil that is barely in spec is usually not good enough. It needs to put out a good, hot, blue spark. This gen of Camrys are finicky like that.

And while you did test the igniter, double check those wires to/from it...from the ECM, to the coil, the tach, and to ground.

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