2001 GTP needing some help

[fastgtp]

I have a 2001 grand prix GTP with 98,000 miles. It recently has developed a few problems. When I am driving at normal speeds and kick it down to pass someone it is very hesitant. It sputters and just doesn't seem to have any more power. Sometime the SES light will come on for just a few seconds until it stops sputtering. Any idea what may be causing this. It seems to happen around 4-5k rpm. Also my anti-lock brake and my traction control light is on all of the time now. I have checked all of the whire connections going to the wheels and they look fine. When I was checking the passanger side front tire I notice a "glob" of grease under the large rubber boot and it looks like it has gotten into the serpentine belt and slung it on the underside of the hood and along the firewall. What is happening to my car?

[troy1]

The SES light coming on while its "sputtering" is telling that you more than likely are getting misfires. It could be just plugs and wires or a bad cat. Your best bet would be to get it scanned and see what DTCs are stored.

[fastgtp]

I have just had the car scanned and there are no codes that show up on it. I replaced the plugs and wires last week and that hasn't changed it. Would a bad plug or wire only show up once in awhile when it is driven? It idles smooth and still has great speed out of the hole but it seems like when you are going along and kick it down is when it happens. Thanks

[Iron]

I'm having a similar problem..when under load it "sputters" (going up hill, floored), and then the check engine light flashes and then goes away after a while. I've ran for codes and nothing has come up.

[fastgtp]

I have read quite a few issues with the cat converter's being a problem. Have you had yours checked out? Any idea about the grease problem?

[BNaylor]

On the CV joint rubber boot issue. The ones on the passenger side can loosen and the grease will start flinging out. So check out the inner and outer boots.

On the ABS and Trac Off light get it scanned with an ABS capable scanner. Could be a hub/wheel sensor, wiring, connector or the EBTCM module. Some ABS/Trac fault issues may cause what appears to be an engine misfire or have little or no power since it will abruptly reduce engine power when wheel spin is sensed or the wheel sensor has an abnormal output signal.

On the converter get it back pressure or just replace it outright since 2001-2002 Grand Prix models were known to have defective converters. The GM dealer should do this for free since the converter warranty was extended to 120K miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. With your mileage you should qualify.

See advisory from GM at our Tips & Maintenance subforum:

Click here

[Iron]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

On the ABS and Trac Off light get it scanned with an ABS capable scanner. Could be a hub/wheel sensor, wiring, connector or the EBTCM module. Some ABS/Trac fault issues may cause what appears to be an engine misfire or have little or no power since it will abruptly reduce engine power when wheel spin is sensed or the wheel sensor has an abnormal output signal.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this Bnaylor. How do I know if a scanner is "ABS capable"? If this were the problem, would it be able to cause a flashing check engine light?
As for the catalytic converter thing..mine is a 2000, so it shouldn't be that...should it?

[KX2000GTP]

Originally Posted by Iron

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this Bnaylor. How do I know if a scanner is "ABS capable"? If this were the problem, would it be able to cause a flashing check engine light?

Most scanners are not ABS capable. You have to get a tech2 or genie or some other high end diagnostic scanner to read ABS Codes. and to clarify (I think this is what bob meant), it's not the ABS directly that causing the SES, it's the ABS causing a simulated misfire, causing the SES (check engine light). (IRON, this is for you to) Misfires are tricky , make sure you look at the history codes and see if there are MF present.
If you use a Genie (I think that is the name) then you can drive and scan realtime. while you make it sputter, the genie will show you what cylinder, if any, is misfiring. realtime scanning is the key...sometimes dtc history or present won't help, you need to see what's going on while the problem occurs.

Did you do the ohm test on your wheel speed sensors to see if they were good? I know there is a walkthrough somewhere on here or clubgp that can help, maybe someone has a link...

On a side note, my ABS has been dead for about a year now due my tranny replacement guys forgetting the harness bolt on the bell housing. it caused the pcm wire to hang (I have FWI) and rub against my condenser, which eventually shorted out the EBTCM (main ABS computer).

As for the catalytic converter thing..mine is a 2000, so it shouldn't be that...should it?

It's still possible...you never know with cats, they are biatches. you can get a high flow for <$100 and get it replaced quick and cheap.

Hope this helps some. Good Luck

[tblake]

Originally Posted by Iron

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this Bnaylor. How do I know if a scanner is "ABS capable"? If this were the problem, would it be able to cause a flashing check engine light?
As for the catalytic converter thing..mine is a 2000, so it shouldn't be that...should it?

You have a miss-fire, right? Maybe its a sticking injector which dumped raw fuel into your exhaust and overheated/plugged your cat converter.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by KX2000GTP

Did you do the ohm test on your wheel speed sensors to see if they were good? I know there is a walkthrough somewhere on here or clubgp that can help, maybe someone has a link...

To run a resistance test on a wheel sensor all you have to do is undo the electrical connector and put the multimeter leads (ohms) on the two contacts hub side. The resistance reading will vary based on temperature. The range is 800 - 1600 ohms for the front wheel sensors. The colder the ambient temperature the lower the resistance reading, hotter higher. For 41 - 110 degrees F the reading should fall in a range of 950 - 1300 ohms.

Also, you can check the output of the wheel sensor by going to AC volts on the meter since it produces an AC output voltage. For the front safely jack up the side (wheel) you are working on, shifter in neutral, parking brakes on. Tap into the two wires in the harness with everything connected and ignition to ON. Move/rotate the wheel. It will read in a range of 0 - 100 mV (millivolts). 100mV = 1 volt.

[Iron]

Hey guys, the check engine light came on and stayed this time, so I ran it for codes and came up with "cylinder 5 misfire". I'll start checking the stuff you guys mentioned.