Best Clutch for '90 LX 5.0L

[LEM]

I'd like to get some opinions on the best clutch to put in my Mustang. I need to balance performance, reliability, and cost. What do you recommend?

THanks.

[351wStang]

Any mods? Stock? How much power are you making? Need to know that kinda stuff before we can give you an accurate option.

[LEM]

It's the original stock engine and transmission, with over 206,000 miles on them; the tranny was rebuilt when I burned out the first gear synchronizer, but that was like 12 years and 180,000 miles ago. I want to keep it stock; though I'm planning to have the engine rebuilt sometime next year, but again I want to keep that stock too. One thing at a time though.

BTW, would you recommend I have the transmission rebuilt while it's out for the clutch replacement?

Thanks.

[351wStang]

Just stick a king cobra clutch in it. Its about the same as the stocker, maybe a little stronger. But it is cheaper than going to the dealer.

[1995gtvortech]

Ive good luck with king cobra

[LEM]

Okay, it's been a while, but I'm planning my clutch replacement job. I'm going to order a King Cobra Clutch Kit online. My next question concerns a flywheel. Should I just have my original flywheel turned or replace it? I think I've got about 213,000 miles on it, although it may have been remachined at about 85,000 miles when I had the first gear synchronizer replaced 14 years ago.

If I do replace it, what's the best, forged steel ($235) or aluminum ($335)? Is it worth the extra money to put an aluminum flywheel in?

Thanks much!

[MrPbody]

LEm,

Well, I'm Johhny-come-lately here, but I can answer your last couple of questions.

Unless there's SERIOUS damage, resurface the original flywheel. It should be "ground", not "turned". Grinding uses a stone and a rotating head and table. Turning uses a cutter and only the flywheel rotates. Grinding will much more effectively remove "hot spots" (the hardened spots that come from usage) and leaves a better finish for clutch "wear-in".

For a "driver", an iron or steel flywheel is always more desirable than aluminum. The aluminum unit is a "race" part, and will have a negative effect on drivability. It'll rev quicker, though...

FWIW

Jim

[HiFlow5 0]

Originally Posted by LEM

Okay, it's been a while, but I'm planning my clutch replacement job. I'm going to order a King Cobra Clutch Kit online. My next question concerns a flywheel. Should I just have my original flywheel turned or replace it? I think I've got about 213,000 miles on it, although it may have been remachined at about 85,000 miles when I had the first gear synchronizer replaced 14 years ago.

If I do replace it, what's the best, forged steel ($235) or aluminum ($335)? Is it worth the extra money to put an aluminum flywheel in?

Thanks much!

With that many miles on your car I would suggest just replacing it. It's probably got heat checks all over it. I know mine did only after 100k miles.

I bought a forged steel one, but don't remember it being that much. But anyway, if your in there and your old one looks bad, might just be piece of mine to replace it with new. My .02 cents.

I'd also recommend the steel over alum.

[Outlaw572]

I have a king cobra clutch brand new never openned in box, I will sell for $120 plus shipping if your interested. Also as stated above don't use an aluminum flywheel on a street car. I had on in my car and it wasn't fun, made the car very bouncy when touching on and off the gas. Didn't make for enjoyable cruising.

[LEM]

Thanks Outlaw572, but I jsut installed the new King Cobra this past weekend. I had the factory flywheel ground and it looked fine. I need to adjust the clutch a bit, but other than a bit of a surging idle (see my other post dated today), it's runnning great.

[Outlaw572]

Glad to hear its up and running, you will be happy with the king cobra clutch, a little stiffer than stock but very driveable!