YZR-M1 Pacific GP3 Barros

[colbro1973]

Good work, I can also recommend mr hobby gloss coat, superb gloss finish and totally decal friendly, downside - small can, expensive! http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=421
I to really like the finish of alclad, however I find it very susceptible to finger prints and marking so I try to limit the use where I can, and normally just do the exhausts with it, maybe I am just not delicate enough!!
keep up the great work.

[Ole_L]

Mike.... very nice work on the bike. I wish I saw it before, but never too late I guess.

As for the clear colors, use Tamiya acrylic clear or Tamiya's heat stain weathering set... works wonders.

[barhebraeus]

Slow progress--winter's got me movin' slow (not to mention the bigger priorities of work and family ). Anyway, after studying the ref photos I decided to remove, remake, and reglue the spring fasteners. First I mocked up the exhaust in the frame with the heat-shield to determine placement:


Then glued 'em on:


And, finally, gluing the swingarm with some JB Kwik:

[barhebraeus]

Further filed down the heat shield after looking at the ref pic:


In the ref pic:

[joelwideqvist]

Why this JB Quick story and not superglue? Let us in on any secrets you got!
/Joel

[barhebraeus]

Joel: my basic reasoning for using JB Kwik is:
1) I started doing it this way and am used to it.
2) I've found it to be much stronger than Cyano/Super Glue for larger metal and resin parts.
3) Has more of a "Clay-like" texture when first applying, which allows for better cutting/sanding/smoothing later on.

Now here's a few more slow progress pics:

Finished putting CF on the inside of the front duct (will clear-coat eventually):



The outside again:


Tried to drill out the end of the exhaust for the Top Studio metal insert and used my regular high speed drill--almost split the whole thing! So, I went out and invested in a mini-drill (Dremel) and finished it the right way:


Cheers...

[stevenoble]

I can understand your caution about using the 2K clear coat.But in reality although the fumes can be pretty hazardous to health,that can be said of all the paints we use in modeling.Even the water based clears like Gunze Top Coat are hazardous when you breathe in the fumes.If you take the proper precautions when using them,good ventilation,a quality spray mask and if you can run to it a proper extractor booth,you will be fine.You certainly don't want your kids breathing in the spraying fumes from any paints though,but if you take the proper measures they will be fine.

[barhebraeus]

Thanks for the advice Steve. Points well-taken.

Some more queries gents, as I prepare for clear-coating :

Can anyone explain to me the essential difference, pros, and/or cons of the Zero One-Step Clear Coat Lacquer versus the Zero 2 Pack Clear Coat System (see URL: http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/advanced ... clear+coat)?

Also, is the Zero one-step clear coat lacquer safe on decals (I know the 2-step is)?

[joelwideqvist]

Basic different is of course the use of a hardener in the 2K system. When it comes to differences in use I can just say generally that a two component clear dries harder than a one component clear. This will make the surface more sustainable against scratches and such. I personally think that the two component (or in the 2K system, three components as you will have to add a thinner) is a bit tideous to work with as you mix it and then have to use it in a relatively short period of time before it starts to harden. I feel like I've been mixing too much every time and in that way wasted a lot of clear.
/Joel

[barhebraeus]

OK. Now how's the Zero one-step lacquer on decals? Any experience with this?

[joelwideqvist]

No but concidering that the the 2K clear had zero ( ;-) ) effect on decals I guess the one step system will neither. But as always go easy and lay down a mist coat first and let that one dry before applying a wet coat.
/Joel

[slk320]

beautifull cf work there... I need to learn how to do that better. Can't wait to see more progress

[barhebraeus]

Gents: I'm going to give this WIP a rest for a while so as to focus on my earlier post/WIP the '03 RCV rebuild, which has now become a completely new build. When that's done I'll get back to work on this WIP--hopefully not too far down the road. Just can't focus on two WIPs with all the other businesses of life right now...