Scratch x Problem

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by freakray

I don't recommend using the Scratch-X on an acrylic.

Why not? I've used it to clean up an old Porsche I painted w/Gunze acrylic and it looks just fine. Also works great on Testors Acryl.

I wouldn't use it on acrylic that's not fully cured. Haven't shot gloss Tamiya in years, so I don't know how it works on that (but it's fine on old '80's Tamiya gloss).

[freakray]

Everything I've read about it online says it will attach acrylics.

Of course everyone claims they have been polishing fully cured paint which may not be the case.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

I have had problems w/a couple older models painted w/Gunze acrylics, but I think it wasn't due to any particular compound but the fact that even water will damage some of the old acrylics (can't comment on new as I don't use gloss acrylics for bodies) if it's allowed to stay on long enough. Just the moisture in the compound was a problem. Even w/Tamiya fine compound.

The first run of Testors Boyd's acrylics was removed from the market and reformulated into the Acryl line. They were like Gunze acrylics; if you let even one drop of water sit on the finished/polished paint, it would attack it. The only thing you can do w/those models is keep them in a very stable (clean and dry) environment so you handle them as little as possible.

Testors Acryl, when dry, is as tough as any paint I've ever experienced. I just wish I could airbrush the gloss colors as consistently as lacquers or enamels. They're very tricky to get the flow just right. But moisture/compounds will not affect them when dry like other acrylics.

[speener]

I think to be safe i will get some mediium and fine tamiya compounds. but just out of curiosity, i will also clear coat my test piece painted with acrylics and try scratch x on that.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by speener

I think to be safe i will get some mediium and fine tamiya compounds. but just out of curiosity, i will also clear coat my test piece painted with acrylics and try scratch x on that.

I have an old tube of Tamiya compound, blue cap, it's the same as what's sold now as "fine". To be really safe you might stick w/fine and finish compounds. They work very, very nicely. I polished out an '06 Mica Silver/clearcoated Corvette ZO6 w/o the need to use any sanding cloths, and it's a mirror shine. Medium compound might be a little coarse, unless you don't have sanding/polishing papers or cloths that when used w/water negate the need for a more aggressive polish on some paints.

[speener]

cool thanks for the suggestion

[Eric Cole]

I've never had much luck with Scratch-X myself, regardless of what kind of paint / clear I use or how long I let it cure. But, having said that, I'm sure it's me and not the Scratch-X because I have certainly seen many cars (by Zoom, Veyron, Cadguy, etc...) finished with Scratch-X with excellent results. I really believe my mistake was in the choice of cloth I used.

Recently, I've only been using the Tamiya polishes and The Treatment Model Wax. ) I find that if I have a decent paint finish to start with I can use Tamiya Course (which will remove minor orange peel / texture), then Fine, then Finish and have a very nice shine. The Treatment Model Wax and a super soft cloth will remove any super fine swirl marks that remain.

The last thing I do, when the model is finished, I use Tamiya's liquid model wax to remove any remaining finger prints, decal adhesive, clean the windows and dust just before it goes in the display case.

[speener]

i am using a very soft old t shirt to put this stuff is on is that good?