Scratch x Problem

[speener]

So i went to wal mart today and picked up some meguiars scratch x. Then i decided to test it on a hood of a crappy model that i don't really care about with horrible orange peel. It was painted with testors spray, horrible stuff, by the way. So i wet sanded it smooth with some tamiya p 1200 and p1500 and then proceed to use scratch x, I applied a little to a soft cloth, using small swirls, medium pressure working my way from the centre of the hood out wards. Eventually i started to feel the smoothness under the cloth, but after repeating with some more scratch x it is a very dull surface. I want to polish a car i painted with tamiya acrylic, and i don;t want to do it with this stuff if it is going to look this dull. There is no shine at all, the surface is very smooth and a reflection can be seen. only the testors spray was used to paint the car. What do I do? I have acrylic clear for my other model should i spray that on first.

[Some_Kid]

Well i dont think its a scratch x problem. Its probably that you used testors paint, which most likey it was enamel judging by your story. Enamels are very hard to polish, actually you probably cant polish them, unless im wrong. Try some lacquer paint with your scratch x, it should look better. You should be good to go with you acrylic paints, butt make sure you have a clear coat to ensure a good shine. It sounds like you had a dull surface because of testors enamel. Wait for other responses before you try mine, because i might be wrong. Through my experience with enamel, ive learned that if you paint a body with enamel paint youll have to deal with that finish, you wont be able to polish and sand like acrylics and lacquers, so it is important to lay the best paint job you can with enamel, as there is not much room to work with.

hope this helps

[freakray]

Some_kid, you're wrong in so many ways. You can polish enamels just like you can polish acrylics and lacquers.
The difference is in the hardness the paints dry to, of lacquers, enamels and acrylics, lacquers dry to the hardest finish, then enamels and lastly acrylics.
Mcguires contains chemicals which can react with model paints and cause them to dull, not only that but just because you used compound it doesn't mean you should instantly get a mirror finish.

Speener, I recommend getting some Tamiya compound, I've used it on their acrylics without any issues, it's your safest bet if you have concerns.

As a final point guys, use the search feature, you'd be astounded at how many times this subject and the one Some_kid just posted a thread about arise.

[stevenoble]

Scratch X is intended for use on full size cars.I think it is too rough for use with enamel paints.However it will work ok with Tamiya TS sprays and any of the automotive type paints/clearcoats that many people use on here.I have tried it on the Tamiya TS range with good results.I still prefer the Tamiya rubbing compounds though,I think they are a bit more gentle.

[freakray]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

Scratch X is intended for use on full size cars.I think it is too rough for use with enamel paints.

It's not so much the particle size as the chemical components which is the harmful part, Scratch X as you mention is for full size cars which are all painted with a 2-part paint which cures harder and is more resistant to chemical interaction.

[speener]

Alright, so I am going to clear coat my car now that has been sprayed with acrylic tamiya, then let that dry/simmer for a couple weeks then get some coarse, medium and fine compound, i saw these three at the hobby store today. I also say tamiya model wax but it was way to expensive, (17 CAN). So after i use these compounds then it should look satissfactory i hope.

[freakray]

Be careful what you clear coat with, remember lacquers will attack acrylics.

[hirofkd]

1500 grit sounds too coarse. Try 2000 before polishing.

[ep-hatcher-510]

just clear, wait for it to dry, and go onto polishing it with 3M rubbing compound, or any other brand ones. great results for me everytime.

[sadler21]

Sorry if this is a hijack, but didnt want to start a whole new thread just for this...

Ive been using ScratchX and have gotten a great shine, but i can still see the marks left from sanding the car, even with Tamiya P2000 sandpaper... am I doing something wrong or is that too coarse and I need finer sandpaper?

[freakray]

Originally Posted by sadler21

Sorry if this is a hijack, but didnt want to start a whole new thread just for this...

Ive been using ScratchX and have gotten a great shine, but i can still see the marks left from sanding the car, even with Tamiya P2000 sandpaper... am I doing something wrong or is that too coarse and I need finer sandpaper?

You give only basic info.....

The P2000 question has already been answered in this thread. What kind of paint are you using - as mentioned already, the paint type effects the result.

Are you wetsanding or dry? It effects the outcome.

Have you tried polishing more? Just because you have a shine doesn't mean you've finished, if there are still sanding marks, you can polish more and remove them.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by freakray

It's not so much the particle size as the chemical components which is the harmful part, Scratch X as you mention is for full size cars which are all painted with a 2-part paint which cures harder and is more resistant to chemical interaction.

I've tried Scratch X on all kinds of hobby paints from lacquer to enamel to acrylic and it's practically identical to Tamiya fine compound and has never reacted chemically to the paint in my experience. It's a very mild compound that works via friction and not chemical reaction, much the same as Tamiya, Novus #2, 3M light duty rubbing compound, Kit Scratch Off, etc. No petroleum smell, and it's paintable as there's no silicone in it. I'd say there's a problem w/the polishing cloth, the buffing technique, or the paint itself in this case.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

I've tried Scratch X on all kinds of hobby paints from lacquer to enamel to acrylic and it's practically identical to Tamiya fine compound and has never reacted chemically to the paint in my experience. It's a very mild compound that works via friction and not chemical reaction, much the same as Tamiya, Novus #2, 3M light duty rubbing compound, Kit Scratch Off, etc. No petroleum smell, and it's paintable as there's no silicone in it. I'd say there's a problem w/the polishing cloth, the buffing technique, or the paint itself in this case.

I would tend to agree with that.

I love Scratch X and any marks that I have in the polished paint I put down to rubbing too dry with am unsuitable cloth.

NTW Speener, I have had great results with using sscratch W to polish up clear parts also. I finish off with Maguiore's wax.

[speener]

I have a feeling it is the paint. It was a very old can, i painted it in haste and got aweful results, i will try meguiars again on my acrylic painted car, i got a test piece. And yes i got acrylic clear.

[freakray]

I don't recommend using the Scratch-X on an acrylic.