Break fluid, how do you use it ?

[klutz_100]

My top-three favorite "spark in the tinder shed" questions on AF:
1. Tamiya die-cast chassis
2. Best base for Alclad2
3. How to strip paint

- peace to all

[Khier]

It is not a war of opinions, each one is learning something from such discussions. I know alcohol will work with Tamiya's and other acrylics. I never used Tamiya's TS colours so I cannot make a comment here. As for automotive paints (out of the spray can) and enmail paints they can be perfectly stripped with brake fluid. No damages, no exceptions I have ever encountered so far (but who knows everything?). The only cases where brake fluid failed (and Alcohol too) was with pre-decorated Revell kits, and some started kits bought from Ebay with unkown paint. I remember when I worked with automotive body shops a long time ago they were amazed by the new paints (the ones hardened in hot drying booth) and how resistent to chemicals they are including brake fluid. So with this class of PPG paint, which I do not know its technical name, other stripping methods must be used.

[924_CarreraGTS]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

My top-three favorite "spark in the tinder shed" questions on AF:
1. Tamiya die-cast chassis
2. Best base for Alclad2
3. How to strip paint

Can you post links to the other two?

[Cold_Fire]

What DOT grade must be used for this purpose?

[rallymaster]

Originally Posted by Cold_Fire

What DOT grade must be used for this purpose?

Hello,
I used DOT3, but I think that's not important, DOT is a warming information needed for original use, we don't warm up the fluid in this purpose !

Phil

[bvia]

Originally Posted by rallymaster

Hello,
I used DOT3, but I think that's not important, DOT is a warming information needed for original use, we don't warm up the fluid in this purpose !

Phil

Uhm, use DOT3 or lower. DOT4 is a silicon based product and we all know how silicon tends to make things really, really slick and slippery.

hth,
Bill

[cyberkid]

Originally Posted by bvia

Uhm, use DOT3 or lower. DOT4 is a silicon based product and we all know how silicon tends to make things really, really slick and slippery.

hth,
Bill

Okee first of all DOT 3,4 are glycol-based fluids. DOT 5 is the silicon type you are talking about. DOT 2 & 5 will not strip paint.
I have only needed to strip some Tamiya models so far and I have used both DOT 3&4...Personally, I like DOT 4, because it strips faster. 1 note though, I ALWAYS test with a piece of painted plastic from an old s2k kit. I leave it there for AT LEAST 48 hours whenever I change a brand or DOT level.
I have noticed that the imported brake fluids (which cost a lot more) tend to work faster, while some of China's products don't work at all. I tend to find the cheapest I can (5$us per liter) and stick with it until I can't get it anymore.

[GTi_guy]

What I do is keep a peanut butter jar full of the stuff, for those "just in case" moments like we have all had. I find that I can stick an entire body in, leave it sealed for a few days, go to the waste repository (sink) and wash my sins away. The fluid in the jar is like what some people do with their deep fryer grease-leave it in there till it is too gummy to use anymore.

As for the alcohol, it just doesn't work for me. I have tried that, CSC, windex, and break fluid, the only thing I find consistently works it the break fluid. I also must say I have to rebuild some parts of my resin McLaren F1, because I didn't know it attacks the resin. Oh well, no worries there, just another lesson learned.

[bvia]

Originally Posted by cyberkid

Okee first of all DOT 3,4 are glycol-based fluids. DOT 5 is the silicon type you are talking about. DOT 2 & 5 will not strip paint.

What he said! Damn my old brain...I totally forgot about DOT"5" being the silicon based stuff..much less that we've gone to the number 5 already!

Thanks for the correction,
Bill