Cam Pos Sensor. Need help!

[crazymoon]

if you are replacing the synchronizer, you dont need to remove the power steering pump, if its like my 98, you have to remove the fuel rack in order to make it easier taking it out and placing it in. dont be afraid to do it. you can clean out the intakes while you are at it. ensure you have the alignment tool before doing the job and you set the #1 cylinder at TDC. if you look under the passenger side tire you can see the what i call cam gear with the notch in it. match them up and you ill be at tdc. good luck

[denzel13]

Originally Posted by wiswind

I have a picture of the power steering pump removed....with the bracket for a '96 3.8L.....the 3 bolts for the bracket are shown in place....sticking out. There was a small bracket that was over the top bolt....requiring that the pump / bracket assembly be lifted up slightly to clear it.....you can see a little bit of a lighter color around that top bracket bolt that shows where that other flange is.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have not replaced the synchronizer......so I cannot offer any tips....

Your 99 may be different as they did a lot of changes that year.

Thanks for the photo, this project has turned out to be a real pain. I have worked on my vehicles and vehicles for family & friends but I have never worked on an engine that was setup like this one. What were they thinking? I hope this is the last time I need to work on this car. We are going away for a few days, but when I get back I will let you know how it is going. Thanks again! : > )

[bear_1961]

Mine too squealed like a pig, that is until I removed the sensor itself (the black cap with two screws and a plug going into it) drizzled a little bit of gunk general purpose oil down the inside of it. It is now totally quite and has been for over 20,000 miles. There is a seal around the shaft that drives it that you cannot see that dries out. This fixes it. It should work on yours. I have seen this done on four different 98 Windstars and it stopped the squeal in "ALL" of them instantly.

Originally Posted by egstasea

Crazymoon, not to hijack the thread, But I will be putting in a synchronizer this weekend in my 98. Mine sqeals like a pig, and the arc on top of synchronizer that passes through the sensor is mangled.

I agree it looks like moving the the power steering lines should do it. I was not planning on removing the fuel rack, what extra seals/gaskets am I going to need?

Most importiantly you mentioned if you have the tool (I do) it makes it easier to know if you are on 1 or 4. Are you saying that the synchronizer can be properly installed at a position other than TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke? It sure would be easier to get the guage on the front bank.

[12Ounce]

Camshaft sensor synchronizer replacement ... '99 3.8.

Some days ago I got the bird-sound that many have described. It was weird. Seemed to have a mind of its own: would get louder or softer without any connection to engine speed. Following, I got abupt engine stoppages ... like nothing I've experienced before ... sudden elect engine shut down, but would restart instantly. Didn't last long enough to give CEL. The bird noise went away, but the engine now had a periodic miss. I was afraid to go far from home. Based on what other posters had descibed, I ASSUMED that I had a CPS or synchronizer problem.

1. Removed wipers, cowling, and air intake duct to cabin.

1a. Drained engine coolant. Sucked out ps pump reservoir.

2. Removed: belt, ps pump (4 bolts, 1 tube connector, 1 hose), water tube from pump (2 screws), ps pump alum mtg bracket (4 bolts, one covered by tensioner), ps reservoir, tensioner (3 screws), idler pulley (1 bolt), CPS sensor(two 7/32" hex head screws).
(NOTE: No fuel line interference on my engine.)

(The tensioner and idler were also replaced with new units. I had to cut about 1/4" off the new idler bolt with rotary tool and cut-off wheel.... because of close quarters between engine and engine compartment.)

3. Replaced old synchronizer with new one. Because I do not have the plastic alignment tool, I took several dimages of the top area of the synchronizer before loosening it from engine. Without the tool, it is necessary to bring the newly installed synchronizer to the same "timing" as the old one. To accomplish this ... the "flag" on the new synchro inner shaft must relate to the sensor window, just as on the old one. Of course, the engine crankshaft cannot move during this matching process. I was surprised that the new outer body of the new synchronizer was to be in a slightly different new position ... I supposed they are not manufacturing the inner shafts to be exactly alike.

4.Refilled and reassembled everything. I did clean the face of the CPS sensor ... it appeared to have collected some rust-dust.

So far, so good. I hope the bird is dead!

The total job took about 4 hours. Now, I think I could do it in 2.

[dougand3]

My friend's 99 3.8L 142k miles did the same thing - squealing, screeching at intermittant times - sounded belt related. We were SURE, dang sure, it was the water pump because that's where the sound was most prominent. So, we replaced water pump with an autozone lifetime warranty one. Sound came back. Pulled that one and exchanged it - "Sometimes new parts can be bad". New water pump on - sound comes back - "There could be a run of bad bearings at the water pump factory". Thankfully, then found the problem BEHIND the water pump. That lifetime warranty can be a scary thing when you get stubborn.

Anyway, I can't find the CPS drive shaft / synchronizer part anywhere on the web...is it a dealer only item? Price? Thanks, Doug

[dougand3]

My friend's 99 3.8L 142k miles did the same thing - squealing, screeching at intermittant times - sounded belt related. We were SURE, dang sure, it was the water pump because that's where the sound was most prominent. So, we replaced water pump with an autozone lifetime warranty one. Sound came back. Pulled that one and exchanged it - "Sometimes new parts can be bad". New water pump on - sound comes back - "There could be a run of bad bearings at the water pump factory". Thankfully, then found the problem BEHIND the water pump. That lifetime warranty can be a scary thing when you get stubborn.

Anyway, I can't find the CPS drive shaft / synchronizer part anywhere on the web...is it a dealer only item? Price? Thanks, Doug

[dougand3]

My friend lubed the synchronizer - WD40, then 5W30 oil. We cleaned some brown powder (fine rust?) out of the cam sensor housing. It still caused a random squeak and labors the engine, so he'll get a new synchronizer. He ran it today without the cam sensor hooked up - it ran smooth.

What trouble will come running it 1-2 days w/o the cam sensor hooked up?