Cam Pos Sensor. Need help!

SRamsey625 · #1 02-26-2005, 01:22 PM

I hate the Haynes manual. I am replacing the CPS synchronizer on my 99 windstar. The haynes makes it sound nice and simple. They don't bother to tell you that you have to remove (or at least loosen) the P/S pump in order for the assembly to come out. It absolutely will not clear the P/S pump to come out. The haynes is not real clear on the removal of the P/S pump on the 99 except to explain that the reservoir is seperate. How many bolts are holding this thing on? I am only able to locate 2. I have them off but the pump still will not budge.

Any suggestions will be helpful.

12Ounce · #2 02-26-2005, 02:28 PM

Are you talking 3.8 or 3.0? Apparently the 3.0 requires removing the pulley first. The 3.8 can be removed with pulley on pump.

"Remove 4 bolts, two brackets, and power steering pump" (for 3.8)

Gee, Ford also makes it sound so simple!

By the way, Ford wants you to discard the o-ring seal on the hi-press hose and replace new... using special tool of course.

crazymoon · #3 02-27-2005, 09:55 PM

i replaced the synchronizer this weekend, it was easy coming out, difficult going in. i had to remove the air intake, and fuel rack to get the piece in. i didnt mind, i wanted to clean out the ports and clean the fuel injectors.

SRamsey625 · #4 03-01-2005, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazymoon

i replaced the synchronizer this weekend, it was easy coming out, difficult going in. i had to remove the air intake, and fuel rack to get the piece in. i didnt mind, i wanted to clean out the ports and clean the fuel injectors.

I don't understand why I'm having difficulty. Mine is at such an angle that it absolutely will not clear the P/S pump without causing what would seem like significant damage. Is this just a freak thing or what? sprayed the heck out of it with wd-40 again until I figure something out.

crazymoon · #5 03-01-2005, 09:26 AM

are you talking about the sensor or the synchronizer. either or the 2 lines that are above the senor can be moved if you unscrew the bolt holiding them in, they are right above it. i did not have to remove the power steering pump. the sensor should just pop off, if not it has either melted or gummed up, if the synchronizer is to come out you have to remove the fuel rack next to the synchronizer. its the only way to remove it out and to install properly. dont forget which way it is facing and to ensure the pistons are at TDC, if you have the tool it makes it easier to know if you are at 1 or 4.

egstasea · #6 03-01-2005, 10:12 AM

Crazymoon, not to hijack the thread, But I will be putting in a synchronizer this weekend in my 98. Mine sqeals like a pig, and the arc on top of synchronizer that passes through the sensor is mangled.

I agree it looks like moving the the power steering lines should do it. I was not planning on removing the fuel rack, what extra seals/gaskets am I going to need?

Most importiantly you mentioned if you have the tool (I do) it makes it easier to know if you are on 1 or 4. Are you saying that the synchronizer can be properly installed at a position other than TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke? It sure would be easier to get the guage on the front bank.

12Ounce · #7 03-01-2005, 10:13 AM

SRamsey
Did you find all 4 bolts?

crazymoon · #8 03-01-2005, 11:58 AM

Egstasea
i had no choice but to remove the fuel rack, the synchronizer will not go in straight with the fuel line in the way. if you have not changed the gaskets for the air intake in a while, i would replace those. 12ounce had posted a pic of a 95 engine with the air intake off. its a very simple job. it takes about 3 hours from start to finish.(cleaning involved-clean ports while intake is off. make sure you have the special tool to remove the fuel line, a bit bigget tool than the one you use for your fuel filter.. if you have the alignment tool for the synchronizer, its a plus. ensure the cylinder is at TDC(alignment tool) before removal. gaskets should be no more than 10 dollars at ford. they say you can resuse the old ones, its up to you. i would use carb cleaner when cleaning ou the engine. B-12 is good.

egstasea · #9 03-01-2005, 01:11 PM

Crazymoon,
I think I understand your comment about the alignment tool. If you can slide the tool on before removal of the synchronizer, the engine is at tdc cylinder 1 compression right?

The problem that I have is the arc on top of the synchronizer is sheared off. So I guess I will have to make sure I am at tdc the way Haynes describes it.
What I was wondering about is if 4 fires opposite 1, can I assume if a pressure 4 our reads no compression as the mark passes tdc means that 1 is at tdc of its compression stroke? I am trying to avoid removing the cowl to put the guage on 1. Maybe I am thinking about this too much,

crazymoon · #10 03-01-2005, 01:23 PM

Sorry, the alignment tool when placed over the synchronizer fits like the sensor. its a half moon shape inside. it can only go in one way. when you rotate the camshaft from underneath the passenger side wheel to align the marks you either end up on #4 or #1. by looking at the alignment tool , i believe the moon in on the right side of the synchronizer when its at TDC. Ford does not sell the alignment tool. i got mine off of Ebay. there are various other online sources that sell the item. i believe this forum has the sources listed on other threads. hope i havent confused you

egstasea · #11 03-01-2005, 01:35 PM

Crazymoon,
I think I was editing when you responded. Take another look at my response please. Thanks.

Also you dont happen to have a manufacturer part number for the fuel line tool do you?

crazymoon · #12 03-01-2005, 01:47 PM

your right, i had placed the alignment tool on before i pulled the synchronizer out to ensure i was at TDC. if its sheared off the marks should still be visable on top of the synchronizer to get an idea of where the moon was to get TDC. as long as you are in the notch(camshaft gear) you should be fine. Autozone should sell the fuel removal kits. there are usually 5 pieces to it. i dont have the stock number for you. just give them a call, they should help you.

egstasea · #13 03-01-2005, 01:51 PM

Thanks Crazymoon

denzel13 · #14 05-03-2005, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRamsey625

I hate the Haynes manual. I am replacing the CPS synchronizer on my 99 windstar. The haynes makes it sound nice and simple. They don't bother to tell you that you have to remove (or at least loosen) the P/S pump in order for the assembly to come out. It absolutely will not clear the P/S pump to come out. The haynes is not real clear on the removal of the P/S pump on the 99 except to explain that the reservoir is seperate. How many bolts are holding this thing on? I am only able to locate 2. I have them off but the pump still will not budge.

Any suggestions will be helpful.

I am doing this exact same thing to my sister-in-laws 99 windstar. Please tell me how mwny bolts you found were holding in the pump. Any information you can give me about the CPS replacement would be appreciated.

wiswind · #15 05-04-2005, 01:16 AM

I have a picture of the power steering pump removed....with the bracket for a '96 3.8L.....the 3 bolts for the bracket are shown in place....sticking out. There was a small bracket that was over the top bolt....requiring that the pump / bracket assembly be lifted up slightly to clear it.....you can see a little bit of a lighter color around that top bracket bolt that shows where that other flange is.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have not replaced the synchronizer......so I cannot offer any tips....

Your 99 may be different as they did a lot of changes that year.

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