New GTP. DIES OUT????

[wylie]

Thanx its the same problem I posted once before when your diving under load say uphill the power fluctuates if you tap the brake or throttle down it goes away for 100 feet or so then starts again.
On flat ground you don't notice it.I was told it was the MAF sensor but I would have to disconnect the battery to put a new one in?
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[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by wylie

Thanx its the same problem I posted once before when your diving under load say uphill the power fluctuates if you tap the brake or throttle down it goes away for 100 feet or so then starts again.
On flat ground you don't notice it.I was told it was the MAF sensor but I would have to disconnect the battery to put a new one in?
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Oh yeah, I vaguely remember. It's called the old chug or chuggle. May be torque convertor clutch (TCC) related or maybe not.

It could be the MAF sensor but it could be a host of other things too. Are you running the OEM AC Delco 7mm plug wires and AC Delco platinum spark plugs?

Now that it's acting up you might consider taking it to a tranny shop that has tranny scan capability and see if any DTC error codes are showing up. A lot of tranny codes will not trigger a SES light but the code is stored for retrieval. "A" codes will trigger the SES light. "B" codes trigger SES after two consecutive trips (drive cycles). "D" codes do not trigger the SES light.

I've seen and heard of people replace a lot of parts and still have the chug.









Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[wylie]

After reading all posts I've seen here about MAF I'll really think thats what the problem might be I'll try the cleaning method and see what happens.
I had in at the tranny shop a while ago for fluid/filter and asked them to scan it about the hard shifting and he said every thing was OK.

I wish I had the space at home I'd love to take this thing of the road for the winter,the winters here are brutal on cars.
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[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by wylie

After reading all posts I've seen here about MAF I'll really think thats what the problem might be I'll try the cleaning method and see what happens.
I had in at the tranny shop a while ago for fluid/filter and asked them to scan it about the hard shifting and he said every thing was OK.

I wish I had the space at home I'd love to take this thing of the road for the winter,the winters here are brutal on cars.
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Yeah it figures on the prior tranny scan. That's typical. Doesn't hurt to try the MAF sensor. At least you can rule it out....simplest and easiest.

Also, there are suggestions to try Sea Foam or Lubegard tranny additive. That stuff will do wonders for marginal and sticky solenoids and clean up the valve body. Under $10.

Winter....what winter? Luv the snow and cold but not what it does to the car. At least it's FWD.







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[richtazz]

do not use a petroleum based cleaner, it will leave a residue that will short out the MAF. You need to disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of damaging the new sensor while unplugging/replacing it.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

do not use a petroleum based cleaner, it will leave a residue that will short out the MAF. You need to disconnect the battery to eliminate any chance of damaging the new sensor while unplugging/replacing it.

I disagree on the MAF sensor. The 5 v reference signal to the MAF is not present when the ignition is off. Messing with the battery when you don't have to causes a higher risk of damaging the PCM and any emissions electronic component.

What I would recommend after cleaning or replacing the MAF is resetting the PCM and remove any possible stored DTC error codes that did not trigger the SES light and put the PCM in re-learn mode.


BTW - My recommendation not to disconnect the battery for MAF is consistent with the GM Grand Prix service manual. For example: to troubleshoot DTC P0101, 102, 103 (MAF error codes), all that's recommended is to make sure ignition is OFF. It doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery. The same is applicable to the TPS and IAC on the throttle body. Plus disconnecting the battery would make troubleshooting those type of components very difficult. Just my common and 2 cents.










Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[richtazz]

I agree that it's not required, but I always disconnect power when working on anything PCM/ECm related, just to be extra safe.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

I agree that it's not required, but I always disconnect power when working on anything PCM/ECm related, just to be extra safe.

It's a matter of personal preference and the situation at hand. If you really want my two cents on electronic components I enforce a wrist grounding strap rule to cut down on static electricity discharge (ESD) at work. Thats where the real damage occurs. In reality, there are no exceptions to automotive electronics either.









Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.