Fuel pump opinions wanted

[sherman69]

Hi guys,
Pereparing for the next time especially if it failed on the road, I would probably cut an opening in the bed if I had a pattern to follow.
Also concerned if there is enough clearance for the scroll saw blade between the bed and the tank.
Also would toss an extra new pump into the spare parts box.

I've seen that Range Rovers have a pattern available for where to cut the rear floor for the same reason.

One thought I had was if on a trip with the fifth wheel trailer, and the pump failed, I could take out the 8 bed bolts and 4 of the hitch bolts, (the ones that go to the frame) then leaving the trailer hooked up, use the trailer landing gear to lift the bed.
Probably would make a very good picture!

Bob B

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by sherman69

Thanks for the help guys.
Ok so I replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi. The new factory supplier.
Cost 88.00. My local NAPA was able to order it through a new catalog.
I wouldn't use Carter again as the old one was 1 1/2 years old.
I cut the old one apart and found it was frozen so it looks like it got too hot. Even some melted plastic.That's a real thrill knowing it is inside the fuel tank. The carter was from NAPA not local though. And had a one year guarantee, but I can't find the receipt. plus it is nw 1 1/2 yrs.
This thing started to act up before it was a year old. I even started carrrying the pressure gauge with me to try to catch the reason for hard starting. It always started to work by the time my brain told me to hook up the gauge. Finally failed totally on the road 120 miles from home.
BTW, I did lift the bed, but next time I will buy a syphon and rent or buy a tranny jack.
My truck has a fifth wheel hitch so that added 8 bolts on the hitch to frame I needed to remove ( no real problem thought because I live in No rust California.
But the wiring for the hitch doesnt have a plug and was not quite long enough to really pull the bed and I didn't feel like cutting the wires.

Bob B

From the horror stories about broken fuel lines alone you could do what I did. Working by myself I had the bed jacked up and the fuel pump started in less than an hour. Dropping a tank, especially a full or nearly full tank seems difficult and risky. I do not have a hitch but I would have thought that was hooked to the frame & non the bed. Maybe it's in the way of the bed bolts depending on the installer? I live in Arizona so rust was not a problem on my 16 year old truck. I used a standard 1/2" drive, heavy duty 6 point socket (3/4" or 18mm both worked on mine) and that removed every bolt without a problem. I could see 3/8 inch drive socket wrenches and light duty (non-6 point) sockets not having the oomph and the sockets breaking from the force.

You could have removed the 8 bed bolts that are tapped and have no nut to worry about (the 2 rear ones had an additional bolt & nut that had to be removed for access). Brace the rear of the bed to prevent sliding. It's not that heavy but find something that minimizes any sliding that could occur, a cable or chain from the rear of the frame to a bed tie point worked for me. That way you won't have to deal with the rear wiring. At least I didn't have to as they built in about 6" of slack. Check yours as you jack the front. Don't forget about the filler cap when jacking. A couple of standard jack stands placed with the help of a floor jack and 2 by 4's of progressively longer lengths makes this easy. Make sure your 2 by 4 jack point is supported by the frame from as many sides as possible. Found a place on my 89 chev that supported from 3 sides. Use caution and common sense and progressively support the bed while jacking. Don't scrimp on the jack stands because the bed is light enough to lift but heavy enough to kill you should it fall on your neck or your head while working. There is a ton of room to work and much less damage risk to the lines and sending unit from limited wiggle room with this method.

[KylePBZ]

Originally Posted by diehlrg

I cut a access hole int he bed of my truck to do the fuel pump. I had the tank in and out 3 times by myself (36 gal tank 1/2 full). Every time it was out it worked. put it back up and no go. I got the sawzall out after the 3rd time. now should i need to do it again i just unscrew 4 swheet metal screws and there she is!

Here's a horror story for ya; I've had all sorts of fuel problems with my 96. First time, coming back from Toronto I stopped to get gas, middle of nowhere, filled up, started it and it ran terrible for a few minutes then nothing at all. You could hear the pump really loud but it wasn't getting to the fuel rail. So I had my girl drive 3hrs and bring some tools. Jacked it up in a gravel parking lot and dropped the tank. Turns out the bottom of my tank was smashed and the sending unit was bent to shit and the pump pressure popped it out of the tubes. Put it back together and bent the tubes the straightest I could and crossed my fingers the rest of the trip home. Luckily it made it the other 9hrs home.

2nd time dropped tank; it was acting up again and had low pressure so I bought a new gas tank, sending unit and pump. Changed all that and good to go for a while.

3rd time; coming home from work, hit a bump and it stumbles and dies as I try to make it up my street. I didn't make it. Had to push it a block until I could work on it. Again, the same loud pumping but now pressure. End up having a friend pull me with a tow strap to another friends house. I said screw it this time! I pulled the bed liner, got out the cut off wheel and chopped the bed open above it. Got the pump out and the pulsator was blown apart. Another $25 later and I was back on the road again.

The moral of the story is; Do it the easy way, cut open your bed and replace everything inside the tank. Pump, sending unit, sock, and pulsator. It will save lots of time and headaches.

[sherman69]

You said:
Got the pump out and the pulsator was blown apart. Another $25 later and I was back on the road again.

The moral of the story is; Do it the easy way, cut open your bed and replace everything inside the tank. Pump, sending unit, sock, and pulsator. It will save lots of time and headaches.[/quote]
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Ok What is the pulsator? I don't remember anything else in there.
Also did tyou have a pattern for cutting the bed? or just a goood guess?
Bob B

[KylePBZ]

Originally Posted by sherman69

You said:
Got the pump out and the pulsator was blown apart. Another $25 later and I was back on the road again.

The moral of the story is; Do it the easy way, cut open your bed and replace everything inside the tank. Pump, sending unit, sock, and pulsator. It will save lots of time and headaches.

-------------------------------------------------------------
Ok What is the pulsator? I don't remember anything else in there.
Also did tyou have a pattern for cutting the bed? or just a goood guess?
Bob B[/quote]


The pulsator is the little, kinda oval shaped, plastic and metal thing that sits in between the pump and the tube in the sending unit. As far as cutting the bed I just sighted the middle of the tank from in between the bed and cab and the other direction from the filler neck. I was a little off and had to cut two directions and opened it up like a box. When done I just bent the metal back down and put the bedliner back in.

[MikeD73USA]

Hello,

I know this a few months down the road from when you posted your fuel pump replacement. I have a few questions for you. I also have a california truck (in illinois now) 1999 k1500 heavy half ton 5.7. Can you remember or have the box that your new delphi fuel pump came in? Do you have the part#? Did it come with a sending unit? My sending unit works fine, does not need replacement. Did the pump come with all the needed stuff? thanks for your time, I think I will need to replace my pump soon. 75k on the truck.

Mike

Originally Posted by sherman69

Thanks for the help guys.
Ok so I replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi. The new factory supplier.
Cost 88.00. My local NAPA was able to order it through a new catalog.
I wouldn't use Carter again as the old one was 1 1/2 years old.
I cut the old one apart and found it was frozen so it looks like it got too hot. Even some melted plastic.That's a real thrill knowing it is inside the fuel tank. The carter was from NAPA not local though. And had a one year guarantee, but I can't find the receipt. plus it is nw 1 1/2 yrs.
This thing started to act up before it was a year old. I even started carrrying the pressure gauge with me to try to catch the reason for hard starting. It always started to work by the time my brain told me to hook up the gauge. Finally failed totally on the road 120 miles from home.
BTW, I did lift the bed, but next time I will buy a syphon and rent or buy a tranny jack.
My truck has a fifth wheel hitch so that added 8 bolts on the hitch to frame I needed to remove ( no real problem thought because I live in No rust California.
But the wiring for the hitch doesnt have a plug and was not quite long enough to really pull the bed and I didn't feel like cutting the wires.

Bob B

[sherman69]

Originally Posted by MikeD73USA

Hello,

I know this a few months down the road from when you posted your fuel pump replacement. I have a few questions for you. I also have a california truck (in illinois now) 1999 k1500 heavy half ton 5.7. Can you remember or have the box that your new delphi fuel pump came in? Do you have the part#? Did it come with a sending unit? My sending unit works fine, does not need replacement. Did the pump come with all the needed stuff? thanks for your time, I think I will need to replace my pump soon. 75k on the truck.

Mike

-----------------------------------------------------------
Mike,
I tossed the Delphi box. But I originally found it on the napa website, and when I inquired, the NAPA counterman found it in a separate catalog. It might be in their computer catalog by now.
Mine came with all needed but I also bought the in the tank wiring harness they had in stock.
Problem is I think after 97 the complete unitized is all you can get. They started the change on some models in 97. A friend with a 97 Tahoe also 5.7 needed a pump and his cost around $350.
Bob B (Sherman69)

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by MikeD73USA

Hello,

I know this a few months down the road from when you posted your fuel pump replacement. I have a few questions for you. I also have a california truck (in illinois now) 1999 k1500 heavy half ton 5.7. Can you remember or have the box that your new delphi fuel pump came in? Do you have the part#? Did it come with a sending unit? My sending unit works fine, does not need replacement. Did the pump come with all the needed stuff? thanks for your time, I think I will need to replace my pump soon. 75k on the truck.

Mike

Mike,

Mine went 180,000 miles with the original fuel pump under mostly extreme Arizona conditions. This included the first 80K as a working farm vehicle. Unless you have a real problem, I would hessitate to change it as a preventive measure. If you do, try www.rockauto.com for the part. I just looked up what I think is your truck & it does not show a fuel pump only as an option. The "more info" option seems to show a complete sending unit. They ranged from $240 to $282. Click the start button in the top-right to find your vehicle under GMC. You can also try 1-866-762-5288 but most of the attendants I've talked seem to use the website as their only source. Despite their weak call center people, they supply good parts. My brother-in-law just got 2 OEM air shocks for his Yukon for half the dealer price. He is very happy with them.

I actually got mine from Autozone for $50. It was a Bosch with the strainer, fuel hose & a variety of electrical connectors. It was universal so there options for different kinds of assemblys.

Should you decide to change the fuel pump assembly, rather than dropping the tank, pull or jack up the bed if it's not to welded on. It shouldn't be. You will need help if you decide to pull it off & may have to disconnect or temporarily cut some electrical. My Chevy was held on with 8 3/4" bolts that came out pretty easy. I jacked up the front and used conventional jack stands to hold it up. Make sure that you have it very secure as you can be crushed if it were to fall on you. I used the stands & a 2x4 board back-up. The guy who helped me has done 4 or 5 fuel pumps & says that he never had more room to work. Plus, you probably can't siphon your gas & the more fuel in the tank, the harder it is to work with.

[sa200]

A friend of mine that is a mechanic at UPS said they use walbro pumps because they have metal gears and are not plastic. He said they are very reliable!

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by sa200

A friend of mine that is a mechanic at UPS said they use walbro pumps because they have metal gears and are not plastic. He said they are very reliable!

These pumps are electrical and very small. Are you sure you are not talking about the mechanical pump that has a mount on the engine but is not usually installed? At least it's not on mine. Don't know if mine had metal or plastic gears.

[sa200]

Originally Posted by steelerguy

These pumps are electrical and very small. Are you sure you are not talking about the mechanical pump that has a mount on the engine but is not usually installed? At least it's not on mine. Don't know if mine had metal or plastic gears.

Electric in tank pump im talking about.

[sherman69]

Originally Posted by sa200

A friend of mine that is a mechanic at UPS said they use walbro pumps because they have metal gears and are not plastic. He said they are very reliable!

----------------------------------------------------------------

Do all walbro pumps have metal gears?
Are they noisier than the others?
Bob B

[sa200]

Originally Posted by sherman69

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Do all walbro pumps have metal gears?
Are they noisier than the others?
Bob B

My friend said they are noisier but not sure if the
new ones are quieter. He said the ones they use
have metal gears, part#GCA4222 which works on
GM throttle body engine. He has taken some of
these pumps apart that has been in service
5yrs and could not find any wear, even the brushes
looked new he said. They never had one fail he said.
Now you just have to find someone that stocks
these pumps....

[Arklaman]

My 1995 3/4 ton w/ 5.7 350 engine has 233,000 miles on it, I replaced my fuel pump with one from autozone, it took me about 3 hours, i unbolted my bed, moved it back enough to access my fuel tank, by myself. When I unbolted the bed, I raised it and placed 4" pvc drain pipes under bed and rolled itI had 3 pieces of pvc pipe, if you don't have any, it is CHEAP!!! I replaced mine at around 188,000 miles!

[cpjonesman]

I bought the Bosch for my 1988 ($48.99). The Bosch was heavier by several ounces, was slightly larger in circumference than the Master I replaced and had all the extra wiring harnesses for any application. I'm assuming the extra weight means better material. I guess I'll find out in a year or so. Interesting note: I did get a refund for the Master pump that I bought last year in November ($35.99). The same Master pump I bought for $35.99 last year is now $46.99. As far as removing the tank vs. the truck bed: It took me thirty minutes to drain the tank with a $1.99 plastic syphon from Wal*Mart. It took an additional thirty minutes to remove the connections and remove the tank. A floor jack makes the job very simple. Of course if you have 20 gallons in the tank, you may not have enough cans to syphon all that.