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#16
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Man, before you start bolting on all of this shit on your car I would seriously get a new distributor cap/rotor button and change your plugs/wires!! You should get all of this done for around $100. If your car has over 60k miles, I would also get a new timing belt for your car. It is all about PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE!!!!
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#17
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ok, i know the distributor cap is the one towards the front with the hose connected to it but what a rotor button? (please dont blast me for not knowing what that is.....ive actually never heard of it). Ive changed the timing belt and water pump like 7 months ago and ive changed the spark plugs too, just not the wires yet but that coming soon.
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#18
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The rotor button is located inside of the distributor cap. It helps w/ the ignition/spark
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#19
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where can i find distributor caps and rotor buttons for a reasonable price? and whats a good brand that I should look at?
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#20
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Go to Autozone and just tell them that you need a new distributor cap and rotor and they'll get it for you. Tell them you want the best quality. I think they had mine in stock when I went to get it. If not, it'll take less than a week for them to get it. You should also replace your spark plug wires at the same time.
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Mods: AEM intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, Tanabe exhaust w/ 2.5" custom piping, ITR exhaust cam, APEXi VAFC, AEM FPR, Warlboro 255l fp, RC 440 injectors, ACT stage 3 clutch, JR Supercharger, Weapon R coilovers, VIS CF vader hood, CF Angel Eye Projector headlights, Black housing corners w/ amber bulbs, "Hybrid" rear emblem, custom rear speaker panels. |
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#21
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First of all, there is no such thing as a rotor button. It' a rotor. Second, you guy make the header install sound like it's nothing. Have you guys ever had to take a stuck O2 sensor out of an OEM manifold? Well, if your O2 sensor is stubborn then you will need an O2 socket and probably an impact wrench to get it off without wrecking it. Now, for me, I have all this stuff so it's no big deal. When I changed the header on my B16 it was a bitch to get the old O2 off without ruining it. The exhaust is simple too, if no bolts break when you unbolt your factory exhaust from the cat. It all depends on the condition of your car. So, first you need to try and break your O2 sensor loose to see if it is gonna be a problem. If it breaks loose then your fine. Second, make sure you have a torque wrench because Honda exhaust manifold studs are not very strong so if you overtighten and snap one then you better make sure you have extra's. I have seen this happen too many times. Make sure you have some penetrating lube for the cat bolts because they get stuck often. I'm not trying to discourage you. You should definately work on your car yourself. But be prepared because if you get everything off and then something breaks, you will not be able to drive your car. So make sure you have extra nuts and bolts for the cat and extra studs for the exhaust manifold if you decide to do it. Good luck. I'll repost if I forgot anything.
Oh, and you should definately make sure all preventive maintanance is up to date prior to any mods. A worn cap, rotor, and wires can decrease performance dramatically.
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Http://www.Honda-Acura.net T3+SIRII powered 93' EX 92' VX hatch new fully built D16Z6 2000 Maxima SE - rims, bolt-ons, etc. 1997 Maxima GXE - Parada's with 18" Velox VX-K's in gun metal. |
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