renew dexcool or go green @ 48k mi.

[bombergp]

Hey guys: In reading so many bad accounts with dexcool I'm wanting to hear some recomendations to stay with or abandon d/c or, is it really possible to safely change over to ol' green. I have a 2001 SE 3.1L 48k mi. since new no probs!

[GTP Dad]

I recommend that you stay with the Dexcool at least at this point. If you have had no problems then don't worry about changing it. Your car is designed for it and therefore you should keep it. With the low miles you have you shouldn't develp any problems in the near future although you may want to watch the overflow tank for a build up of brown sludge and clean it out periodically.

[BNaylor]

Sometimes its better to leave well enough alone as GTP Dad suggested.

It is possible to switch over to regular green coolant but the cooling system must be thoroughly flushed first.

Another option would be to go with the new coolants such as Prestone Extended Life which is based on organic acid technolology (OAT) just like Dexcool. Unlike Dexcool, its green and can safely be mixed with Dexcool. Won't damage engine metals such as aluminum or the gaskets either. Again its wise to flush out old coolant before putting in any new stuff.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[richtazz]

This will be the first time I disagree with GTP. Dex-cool is a nasty, corrosive, coagulating, sludgy mess, and if I had my cooilng system open for any reason, it would be gone. Just be sure that you copletely flush all traces of Dex-cool before you change over, as green and Dex-cool do not play well together.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

This will be the first time I disagree with GTP. Dex-cool is a nasty, corrosive, coagulating, sludgy mess, and if I had my cooilng system open for any reason, it would be gone. Just be sure that you copletely flush all traces of Dex-cool before you change over, as green and Dex-cool do not play well together.

What are you waiting for Rich? I did mine over 3 months ago on my GTP and Regal GS and switched from Dexcool to Prestone Extended Life. Best decision I ever made.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[richtazz]

mine is gone B, converted as soon as I bought my car. I meant that if he was opening his cooling system, it'd be gone if it were me.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

mine is gone B, converted as soon as I bought my car. I meant that if he was opening his cooling system, it'd be gone if it were me.

Just out of curiousity what brand did you switch to? I've got two more to go, son's Alero and wife's Regal LS. Can only handle one ball at a time...lol.




Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[richtazz]

I used Prestone, as i wanted something that wasn't too abrasive, but has some silicates in it to reduce sluge formation.

[GTP Dad]

I have no problem with disagreements as you probably know. Changing the coolant is a personal preference and it is up to him based on a variety of views on what he will actually will do. Richtazz makes a good point in that Dexcool is nasty stuff but once again he only has 48K on the clock so unless he is having a problem it may be wise to stay with the Dex. If he insists on changing then the new Prestone EL is an excellent choice over the regular stuff.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by GTP Dad

I have no problem with disagreements as you probably know. Changing the coolant is a personal preference and it is up to him based on a variety of views on what he will actually will do. Richtazz makes a good point in that Dexcool is nasty stuff but once again he only has 48K on the clock so unless he is having a problem it may be wise to stay with the Dex. If he insists on changing then the new Prestone EL is an excellent choice over the regular stuff.

Whats good about the GP form is its balanced with typically all points of view. Everyone has their own point of view. At least in the end the person that inquired can make an educated decision.

Off topic GTP Dad....how did the header install go? I just took delivery of SLP headers and started installation. Any suggestions or tips? Hopefully I can finish with all my fingers, hands and arms intact.



Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[GTP Dad]

I haven't really had the time or the weather to finish. No garage and 90 degree weather is no time to fool with headers. I still haven't gotten the engine rotated back into place.

I have all the stuff to make a custom exhaust. Planning on using a high flow cat,3" a true O2 sensor not a sim. I plan to use a glass pak as a resonator and then plan to split the pipes from there back to the mufflers to make dual exhaust from there. I hope to have it finished next month. The one thing to remember is to leave the front and rear headers loose until you attach the crossover pipe then tighten them. I also recommend a good air rachet to remove the stock manifold bolts, a whole lot faster. Last, be real careful when you rotate the engine, the on e motor mount is cast aluminum and it will break easily. (Learned from experience $16 for a new one, not expensive just a PITA.)

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by GTP Dad

I haven't really had the time or the weather to finish. No garage and 90 degree weather is no time to fool with headers. I still haven't gotten the engine rotated back into place.

I have all the stuff to make a custom exhaust. Planning on using a high flow cat,3" a true O2 sensor not a sim. I plan to use a glass pak as a resonator and then plan to split the pipes from there back to the mufflers to make dual exhaust from there. I hope to have it finished next month. The one thing to remember is to leave the front and rear headers loose until you attach the crossover pipe then tighten them. I also recommend a good air rachet to remove the stock manifold bolts, a whole lot faster. Last, be real careful when you rotate the engine, the on e motor mount is cast aluminum and it will break easily. (Learned from experience $16 for a new one, not expensive just a PITA.)

Yes, I know what you mean GTP Dad. No matter how fast you want to get the job done we're always affected by the environment. But it sounds like you have a good plan. I'm trying to get done by this Sunday and then do some testing earleir in the week for another run at the dragstrip the following Saturday.

I'll definitely keep your suggestions in mind. I'm running a quasi custom system with 2.5 inch downpipe from the woven flex joint to a Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT with 2.5 in/outlets into the stock plumbing and mufflers. No resonator. Hopefully I get lucky on the engine rotation. Its a real PITA for 25 hp or so but once its done its done. Thanks for the tips.



Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[regalfriend]

i have had 2 cars w/ dexcool....i know they say to change at 100,000 but dont go by that....if you leave it go for this long it will become thick and sludgey....im a fanatic w/ mantainance and dont go by manufacturers specs...they say plugs should be changed at 100k but i do it at 50k....also i usually change oil at 2500 to 3000...remember the dealer makes more money servicing your car than selling you a car...i recomend staying with dex cool since your car was designed for it...change it sooner than the manufacturer suggest...whatever number they give you, cut it in half, and you should be ok

[richtazz]

I agree that disagreement is good, in a professional manner of course, as it offers another opinion. I would agree that if he isn't doing anything to the car, leave well enough alone at only 48K. I assumed that he was doing some repair, and even at 48k, if my system was open, Dex-cool would go bye bye. We have a lot of great people on this forum, GTP and Bnaylor are two of the cream of the crop. You guys have helped a lot of people.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

I agree that disagreement is good, in a professional manner of course, as it offers another opinion. I would agree that if he isn't doing anything to the car, leave well enough alone at only 48K. I assumed that he was doing some repair, and even at 48k, if my system was open, Dex-cool would go bye bye. We have a lot of great people on this forum, GTP and Bnaylor are two of the cream of the crop. You guys have helped a lot of people.

Speak for yourself Rich. lol. You're pretty sharp yourself and have helped a lot of GP forums users. You're in the automotive business for a living but for me its a just a hobby but its nice to help people out or share your experiences. Most of us die hard GP forum users do have common bonds. For one I'm not exactly a fan of the dealers and their service departments, especially after getting screwed over by them or seeing it happen to others.



Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials