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#16
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Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
So wait... I can actually damage the engine by running Seafoam? I bought my Rodeo used, so I dont know for sure how the previous owner maintained it. I have about 110k miles now...
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#17
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Synthetic oil fixed it for me
I bought my 95 1/2 rodeo used with 54,000 miles, and it had "the tick" when it was at all cold out. I found the advisory about using 0W30 synthetic oil, and did it. It helped, so I kept using it. Unfortunately, the thin synthetic oil seems to slip through between the pistons and walls more easily, so it burns some. On the advice of a guy I know I started adding Lucas, and changed from 0W30 to 10W30. This reduced the amount of oil burned.
I now use whatever synthetic oil is cheapest at the time (usually Castrol) and Lucas and it ticks only for a minute when starting in cold, humid weather. I change it about every 4,000 miles , and am up to 104,000 miles. I have not noticed any difference between filter brands, I use Fram because: *I heard they're good *the bright orange color is easy to see *the black grippy surface they add is great |
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#18
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Guess no one knows about the Seafoam... ?
Herring, What I dont get is the difference between the oils. Doesn't the first number represent the oil when cold and the second number represent the oil at operating temps? If so, then why would it be any different from 0w-30 vs 10w-30? Only thing I can see is that the 0w-30 will flow much quicker at startup. But at normal operating temps, shouldn't both the 30 weight oils be the same? thx |
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#19
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Re: Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
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When you suck it through the PCV line, where does it go? I am about to do this as I am burning oil a lot and am willing to try anything. Does it get burned up and out the tailpipe? |
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#20
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Tygger,
I am not personally familiar with Seafoam, although I have heard of it. There is a another product out there that I really like. I firmly believe that not only is it the best cleaner I have ever used but also the safest. This cleaner is called Auto-Rx and was formulated by an individual called Frank Miller. Let me tell you about the two vehicles I have tried it in. The first one is a 2001 Isuzu Trooper purchased with only about 250 miles on the odometer. The only two problems I have had were the two common problems associated with this vehicle: A bad intake gasket and Champion spark plugs. During my search for information on how to solve the above problems, I settled on the following product lineup to get my Trooper back in shape. 1. Fuel Power by LCD 2. Dual Guard By-pass filtration by Amsoil, Inc. 3. Auto-Rx 4. Synthetic Oil--I prefer to use Amsoil Series 2000 5. Lube Control by LCD The above products really improved how my Trooper's engine runs. Prior to using the above products the accelerator pedal would vibrate when the tachometer climbed above 2000 rpms. Now, the engine is so smooth and quiet that whenever I step on the gas pedal, I can't tell what rpm the engine is operating at. It could be at 1000, 2,500, or 4,000 rpm for all I know. The biggest difference has to do with how many miles per gallon my Trooper obtains. Prior to using the above products the mileage ranged from 17 to 19 mpg. Today, I can consistently obtain about 22-24 mpg. One thing I should note is that the Amsoil Series 2000 was used since about 3,000 miles. Every thing else was done in the last year. The second vehicle is a 1994 Honda Passport with about 145,000 miles on the odometer. Based on the good results I have had with my Trooper, I decided to try Auto-Rx in the Passport. I was trying to solve two problems with this cleaner: thick oil sludge and at least two collapsed lifters on the right side of the engine. Right now I am into the "rinse" phase, and it looks like the lifters are working properly again. The engine also has much more pep and is smoother than before. If any of you are interested, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and do a search in the fuel and oil additives section of the forums. You will find so much information about Auto-Rx, Fuel Power, and Lube Control that your head will spin. I don't know if this information will help anybody or not. For me personally, I am very happy with how well my Trooper and my Passport are running right now. Bobby |
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#21
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Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
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Yes, Seafoam can damage your engine, but only if you run it for too long. I cringed a bit when you said you drove for 50 miles with the Seafoam in there. I, personally, woudn't drive the car at all with Seafoam in it. I'd let it idle for maybe 20-30 minutes max then drain the oil. Seafoam breaks down the oil and sludge in the engine, making the oil useless as a lubricant. I ran Seafoam in my engine for about 20 minutes and it drained out like water. |
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#22
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Re: Re: Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
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It goes through the intake manifold and into the combustion chamber to be burned then out the tailpipe. This won't help your oil burning problem. The PCV method is good for cleaning combustion chamber carbon deposits. |
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#23
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Re: Re: Re: Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
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#24
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Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
Another question:
Is seafoam deep creep acceptable to use for cleaning the EGR and for squirting in the PCV line? Marc |
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#25
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bjayjohnson, thank you for the info. I'll definately look into AutoRX.
Catfuzz, thanks for the explanation. Now I understand how seafoam works. Also, It wasn't me that ran Seafoam in my engine for 50 miles. That was lucaswhunter. |
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#26
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thas the same problm that i have. its sooooooo emabarassing. but i have a few ?'s.
1. what kind of sea foam is it becuase all I saw was the deep creep spray. what do i ask for at the store 2. how many applications does a severe problm normally take to quiet down. is it a one day thing of a process also could you email me or post detailed instructions of how to do this I have a 3.2l v6 at [email protected] thanks |
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#27
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Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
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With seafoam in the oil, I personally would only idle it for 5 to 10 minutes. It really thins out the oil and I can't imagine what viscosity the oil is at with seafoam in it. For the combustion cleaning, follow the directions on the can. I took it out to an empty parking lot to do it cuz it puts out a huge cloud of white smoke. Make sure to change the oil after doing the combustion chamber cleaning. Here is Seafoam's website for more info: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm |
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#28
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Im going to do the seafoam in the morning and I hope it works. is it a permanent solution or just a quick fix. also do very frequent oil changes helkp lessen the ticking? I chang my oil every 2000-2500 miles at the latest. and is there anything else i can do to make it run quieter.
Last edited by bighops2000; 06-20-2005 at 03:25 AM. |
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#29
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Re: ticking noise... not timing belt
Mine sounded like a diesel, and i put it in about a month ago, maybe less and it is like a new engine, no noise what-so-ever... it is the best $5.95 I have ever spent.... especially sine the mechanic told me it would be $1000 to take the heads off and clean it all out...
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#30
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TERRIBLE DAY .just tried the sea foam and it wasnt much help. maybe it was my procedure....
I already had the 5.9 quarts of oil in the crankcase but i added half a bottle of sea foam and let it set idle fo about 5-10 minutes the i went on a few high power laps around the block and a few regular speed laps too. this went on for about 6 miles then when i got back it was still ticking so i poured the rest of the bottle in and reved it just waiting for it to sputter and smoke like lucashunter's..it never did so i draned all of the oil and stuff and changed the filter too and for a bref moment it was louder then it quieted down by a few notches but not much less than it was before the whole process. then a added the deep creep spray to the throttle plate and cleaned the area in the throttle plate and when i cranked it back up (with the intake off) and reved it from under the hood a spark flew out and a LOUD POP!!!!! and a quick sputter and then it blew smoke for about 10 seconds and now its back to normal. (a tad softer than before the whole process).
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