Check engine light / slow car

[JekylandHyde]

1. What octane fuel are you using? (should be 93 or more)

2. How hot/cold outside was this when it happened? You are more likely to detonate at the extreme temperatures.

3. Your worn ignition components could have easily contributed to this.

4. Were you running more than 15 psi of boost on the stock turbo?

[Sandhawk]

1. 91 - I live in California so higher octane is hard to come by

2. It wasnt very cold or hot, its been relatively nice outside.

3. Fixed

4. I was running 14 on the stock turbo.

[JekylandHyde]

If you were running 14 psi for any length of time (several months) with no worries ... then I wouldn't stress it. Chances are your ignition will help a lot.

I assume you have noticed the car being smoother and peppier with the new ignition pieces?

[Sandhawk]

Its been running much smoother until last night when the CEL turned back on, so I reset my ecu (to clear the saved codes frm before) and sure enough code 52, and this is only about 4 hours after installing the new sensor.

Is there any possibility that I tightened the sensor on to tight? Because I noticed the old sensor wasnt on very tight at all.

Im really stumped on this one and hope that I dont have to go buy another sensor, (cost me $155 at the toyota dealership).

[JekylandHyde]

It is more likely that the sensor would blow from not being on tighteenough.
If they are not on tight, they could wiglle around giving off "knock" (metal vibration).

[Sandhawk]

Dam, so I guess Ill buy another one and put it on as tight as possible

[JekylandHyde]

I am really concerned that you knocked loud enough to break it ... unless you think it was installed loose.

Maybe you should get your engine checked out?
At least a compression check.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge that reads vacuum? If so, what is your vac at idle?
Does the car run well? Any smoking?

[Sandhawk]

I didnt think the sensor was loose at all.

Taking my car to a shop in about 5 minutes to get the motor checked out especially because of an oil leak.

My vac at idle reads -20 and the car ran perfect while the sensor was intact, but as soon as the CEL turns on it runs like crap.

And there is a little white smoke when I turn on my car, Thats burning oil I think, and taking my car in to get that fixed.

[Sandhawk]

Is it possible that the sensor is still good, only loose, and only needs to be tightened?

I also have a new knock sensor next to me (the GM one from ATS) should I just install that one?

[JekylandHyde]

Is it possible? ... sure. Can't hurt to try. It's free.
Just remember to reset your codes.

DID you reset your codes when you installed it?

As for the ATS GM knock sensor, I am not that familiar with them. I know you need an adapter to put it on the car. Did you buy that? A lot of people use them.

[Sandhawk]

Yeah I did reset the codes after installing the adapter the first time. Tightening the adapter didnt help either.

I was able to install the ATS sensor (I bought the adapter with it) and so far everything works. Im taking it to get tuned later in the week